Different drills??

[johnakay]

what is the different between...
1, percussion drill
2. rotary drill
in comparison to an ordinary drill.

I need a drill that will drill tubing (to open up a little with out jaming etc)
also I want a drill that will not twist my wrist if it get stuck.
willing to pay up to £100.
I have a dewalt 18volt drill costing me £275. but I hardly use it for that reason(twist - wrist)
so I'm selling that if any one is interested.

 

[pointer2null]

I'm no expert, but isn't a percussion dill normally refered to as one with hammer action? Possibly one of the flash ones where you can have: normal, hammer action and hammer only?

 

[pointer2null]

also I want a drill that will not twist my wrist if it get stuck.

For that you will need an impact type drill/driver.

 

[HOUNDMAGNET]

A percussion drill is a better form of hammer drill,which uses percussion to hammer the bit home.In a normal hammer drill this motion is via gearing.
This is for masonary drilling only,not needed for metal or wood!
You need a rotary drill.

To have a machine that will not "twist" if it gets stuck,you need a drill with a variable clutch.Setting the clutch to a lower setting will prevent the twist you describe.
Most dewalt drills have a variable clutch as far as im aware,but im not sure as i only use makita drills.
Although dewalt machines have been popular,especially in the building trades,those who know better will chose a makita.
Dewalts are just "tarted up" black and deckers made by the same company!

 

[hotrodder]

Percussion/hammer drills and rotary hammers are for drilling masonry and the like, will quickly destroy drill bits using 'em on metal.

Changing the dewalt for a cheaper drill won't fix the issue, might mask/reduce the issue if the replacement has less torque. Drills tend to 'snatch' and try to break your wrist when the pilot hole is too big (like using a drill to slightly enlarge the ID of tube/pipe) as only the very edge of the drill bit is in contact with the work. Also happens with sheet metal sometimes as the point of the drill breaks through. Cone or step drill bits are the answer for thin material, much cleaner hole too

As said, setting the clutch on your dewalt will lower the torque and save your wrist when the bit grabs. What you're doing sounds more like a reaming operation than drilling. You'd be better off with chucking reamers but they ain't cheap

 

[RedOrZed]

johnakay, what are you drilling and where is it? Sounds to me like you'd be better off with a drill press. you can pick up some big old ones if you look

if you're drilling something that's already in place and you've no choice than to use a hand held, well there's good advice here!

You could also look into re-profiling your drill bits to work better on thin metal, but I expect you'd be better off with cones.

A mate of mine has a Makita 240v drill that's seriously low geared especially for drilling metal, you want me to find out the model?

 

[johnakay]

I do all sort of drilling mainly in metal. the dewalt that I have the battery always flat or soon is when I go to use it.its a industrial type,can't remember what model but the normal retail price is around the £275 mark.it only take an hour to charge I know put the ****** on charge then you say.not only that it is some weight.
I was thinking of buying this drill http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-METABO-SB...s_SM?hash=item2ea73b5fa8&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 I have a jig saw made by these and I've had it years and it is still going strong.
as for rotary/percussion I had an idea but just wanted to make sure.
I do have a bench drill.

just had a check on ebay the prices have come down a lot since I bought mine(dewalt)http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DEWALT-DC925-...s_SM?hash=item29fe6bf4cb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

[Shox Dr]

You won't go wrong with a Metabo, very well made.

However as others have said, it's how you are using the drill, not the drill itself. If you get a drill that doesn't snatch, you will end up stalling it and burning the motor out.

 

[Hitch]

Percussion/Impact drill, also cunfusingly know as hammer drills. The most basic type, the 'hammer' action is created with ridged discs rotating against each other. These usually have a standard 3 jaw chuck.

Rotary drill, usually if its just a rotary drill, it does exactly that, it rotates, with no 'hammer' action. Often lower geared, so ideal for drilling large holes.


Rotary Hammers/Pneumatic hammers, thes normally have sds+/max chucks, used more for masonry work than anything else. The hammer is much harsher than that of the percussion drill. Most have the option to turn off the 'hammer' for drilling wood/metal.


If you dont want something to take your wrists off, you need something with a safety clutch, or a pillar drill and a clamp or two.

Snagging bits can often be avoided by a better technique/sharpening. Too much pressure on breakthrough is a common cause.

 

[johnakay]

thanks for tips and advice. john

 

[Drains]

If you dont want something to take your wrists off, you need something with a safety clutch, or a pillar drill and a clamp or two.

Snagging bits can often be avoided by a better technique/sharpening. Too much pressure on breakthrough is a common cause.

As Hitch says, if you don't want to get your wrists broken, learn how to use a drill properly! Keep your bits sharp and at the right angle, drill straight, learn not to push in and take the drill off angle, don't push too hard on breakthrough. Use a bit of oil when drilling most metals - makes the job easier and saves the tip.

Also, a drill with speeds to suit the bit size - get one with a two-speed gearbox and variable speed, and a good quick release chuck. Will serve you well.

That Metabo drill is okay, but got a Jacobs chuck on it. Wouldn't cost much more for one with a quick release.