Dedicated drill press for countersinking? Or other machine?

[julianf]

I need to countersink these, as an ongoing thing -

Is there a better way than to set up the depth stops on my press, and use a zero flue countersink tool?

I mean i can do them on my press, but the setup is irritating, and i always need to use the press for other things inbetween.


Im considering getting a dedicated small press for doing them, but is there any other machine i should consider?

The job is one where cosmetics are essential. I even stress about spinning swarf from the cutter scratching the finish. In truth, i hate doing the countersink, but its required, so just want to make my life as easy as possible.

I dont mind spending a few quid, but we are talking a hundred, or a couple of hundred, rather than a thousand... Used is preferable to new (machines, not cutters!)


Thank you.

 

[grim_d]

What about a countersink cage? Its essentially a mini depth stop, used for making accurate countersinks on aircraft. You get nylon face "no mar" ones and they are not terribly expensive.

Random link, they are available in the UK no problem, I've got a few. (William lees and sons can supply for example)

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/62/Level/a/Default.aspx

 

[Agroshield]

I even stress about spinning swarf from the cutter scratching the finish.

If you make a simple locating jig for them (a rectangle with two fences on it), you could laser cut a thin stainless overlay with holes in it only where the countersink goes so giving swarf protection.

If you make the jig with a reamed hole under each countersink and then set a dowel pin poking from the drill table concentric with the spindle, it is very quick to move between them. The dowel pin could be on its own baseplate so when you want to do these you carry it over to the drill press, clamp the dowel in the chuck, lower the quill and clamp baseplate to drill platen.

A cheap aluminium extrusion-based CNC router would do these very well. Use a V-bit and circular interpolation so you have chips not swarf.

If doing manually, look into piloted countersinks as these locate into the already-drilled hole.

If I may say so, UP and DOWN on the plate are rather counter-intuitive. How much ink does it save by abbreviating controller?

 

[Munkul]

How many are we talking here? A hundred? Or a thousand?

Assuming a hundred... I'd use a drill press with a depth stop like you already have, and protect the surface with extra wide masking tape.
Cover the surface in tape
punch through the relevant holes with a jig and a pin punch
then countersink and remove tape.

That way you can do a decent volume without worrying about swarf or sinking the wrong holes.

 

[julianf]

Couple of points -

I need to do loads of different ones. Exactly the same style / material, but different sizes / designs. All the same type / thickness of metal. Same blue print. Just different designs of panels.

Numbers - we are talking, if things go well, hundreds, not thousands.

They're laser cut. I have a CNC mill. The issue with using it to countersink is that, whilst its very accurate in X and Y, depth requires the metal is perfectly flat, perfectly clamped, no swarf under the job, no damage to the clamping, etc. It would be quicker to do by hand, than to setup the part perfectly in the CNC mill. Again, lots of different designs.



Quick additional question -

What sort of speed should I cut these on? It's 5005 alluminium. Would fast or slow give me the best finish with the least burr?