Cupping of Feather Edge Boarding...?

[Gritineye]

Think about the days when materials where much dearer than labour.

Feathering the boards meant getting much more from your tree, selecting the grain, overlapping only the minimum that allowed for movement and using only one nail was the most economical and reliable way to get the job done.

Cladding a whole building takes a lot of wood, try adding an extra inch overlap and work out the extra cost.

 

[mike os]

Too much overlap means fixing is too far from the edge

 

[wookie]

View attachment 139252

That looks really good, nice attention to detail, far better than just whacking some corner trim piece on

I'm following this thread with interest as I clad my garage doors with vertical t&g but it's splitting/curling so I'm wanting to redo it preferably again in wood but want to avoid problems this time, worst case is I do it in corrugated sheet even though I don't like the look of it particularly.

 

[Gritineye]

Another thing to look out for with featheredge is that the bottom edge of the board is at 90 degrees to one side and at a more acute angle to the other side.

When selecting to turn the heart to the wall this will make the shadow line vary, looks like you've done summat wrong, you often see it on fences.

I've had very picky customers query this but they either have to go with it or accept a few cupped planks.

 

[HughF]

That looks really good, nice attention to detail, far better than just whacking some corner trim piece on

I'm following this thread with interest as I clad my garage doors with vertical t&g but it's splitting/curling so I'm wanting to redo it preferably again in wood but want to avoid problems this time, worst case is I do it in corrugated sheet even though I don't like the look of it particularly.

It took a while. I planed the bottom edge of 75% of the boards too, some of them were a bit wonky. Cut to length by hand and hand nailed. Took me a good few weeks of evenings to complete it. I've got lots of pictures, I'll put some more up.

 

[awemawson]

It looks very good, and if working in Oak or preferably Elm it should stay looking nice - but plain old cheap pine / whitewood will be all over the shop very quickly as it moves a lot with the seasons.

 

[HughF]

It looks very good, and if working in Oak or preferably Elm it should stay looking nice - but plain old cheap pine / whitewood will be all over the shop very quickly as it moves a lot with the seasons.

The oak on the house has gone a nice grey colour, but a few bits in places have split and could do with replacement... I guess 40yrs of exposure will do that.