Countax sit on mower deck bearings.

[Mart63]

The front deck bearings have gone in our Countax mower at work and I've been tasked with replacing them. I've figured out that the bearings are 6205 2rs. I watched a video of an American guy replacing the bearings on another make and model, but the design looks pretty similar. He used a large punch and a hammer to knock the old ones out and an impact socket and hammer to drive the new ones in. I don't have access to a press and don't own any impact sockets. Anyone got any ideas what size socket I'd need to buy, the bearing OD is 52mm. Or perhaps there is a better method someone has used. Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Agroshield]

If you are replacing them, you can use the old bearing to drive in the new one. If the OD is sunk into a bore, go around the old one with the grinder first, to give it clearance. Similarly, for the ID. For 52mm OD, I would be tempted to try a bit of scaffold tube (48mm OD). If too small, a 1 1/2" BSP coupler and a grinder.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Place bearing in a bag, flood it with grease.
Place in freezer over night.

Remove, line up with the hole.
Using a punch, on the outer race tap at:
12 o clock.
6 o clock.
9 o clock.
3 o clock.

Repeat until bearing is fully home.

 

[Mart63]

Thanks for the advice. I have some old scaffold tube at work so I'll try for size when I can get it apart. The bolt on the top pulley is seized solid, so I've had to order a blow lamp to heat it up. I have a brazing hearth in the workshop but space is too limited to get the mower inside.

 

[MCKDAVID]

As above if you can use the old bearing, if not; I just use any standard socket that fits on the outer race but less than the final OD so it doesn't jam. they don't need to impact rated, you're only tapping them in lightly, not belting the living daylights out of it... or if you don't have the socket, use a punch / hammer, tap on each side alternately and work it in all the way round the diameter equally, light taps is all that's needed. just keep it square as you can. Simple enough, you don't need to over think it..

 

[Mart63]

Thanks again for advice given. I'm more worried now about getting bolts out without them shearing off. There's a bolt at the bottom of the spindle that holds the blade in place and another at the top holding the upper pulley in place. There doesn't appear to be a way to lock the spindle in place to stop it rotating, and neither bolt is moving yet. I ideally want to undo the top bolt first so I can remove the top pulley, then the plastic cowling, then the secondary pulley. This will then allow me to drop the hub and bearing assembly. I bet if one of the bolts let's go it'll be the one I don't want to.

 

[Brad93]

The front deck bearings have gone in our Countax mower at work and I've been tasked with replacing them. I've figured out that the bearings are 6205 2rs. I watched a video of an American guy replacing the bearings on another make and model, but the design looks pretty similar. He used a large punch and a hammer to knock the old ones out and an impact socket and hammer to drive the new ones in. I don't have access to a press and don't own any impact sockets. Anyone got any ideas what size socket I'd need to buy, the bearing OD is 52mm. Or perhaps there is a better method someone has used. Any advice would be much appreciated.

My bearings fell out of our MTD Cub Cadet.
You may need a slide hammer though.

one of the bearings the outer race came away and the inner race had welded to the Shaft. I had to burn that off with the oxy.

had to drill and tap the end of the shaft to put a bolt in as we lost some threads they were so corroded. Just as backup you know.

 

[Brad93]

Thanks again for advice given. I'm more worried now about getting bolts out without them shearing off. There's a bolt at the bottom of the spindle that holds the blade in place and another at the top holding the upper pulley in place. There doesn't appear to be a way to lock the spindle in place to stop it rotating, and neither bolt is moving yet. I ideally want to undo the top bolt first so I can remove the top pulley, then the plastic cowling, then the secondary pulley. This will then allow me to drop the hub and bearing assembly. I bet if one of the bolts let's go it'll be the one I don't want to.

You put the blade in the vice, leave it bolted up right and undo the bolt on top of the bearing housing. the whole lot then taps out of the bottom. No need to undo the blade really.

 

[Brad93]

In my experience you’re going to damage the bearing hitting it with a punch. They’re much too tight a fit in the housing.

I made a Aluminium drift/bush the right size In the lathe and tapped them in with a Big deadblow.
If you have a press even better.

 

[dyno-tron]

I have a Westwood mower, same as countax more or less, be prepared for the bearings to be stuck on the shaft (corrosion), I had to destroy the old bearing and cut off the inner race to free it (didn't have oxy acet like Brad) , then Emery cloth to clean up the shaft before fitting the new ones.

 

[Brad93]

I have a Westwood mower, same as countax more or less, be prepared for the bearings to be stuck on the shaft (corrosion), I had to destroy the old bearing and cut off the inner race to free it (didn't have oxy acet like Brad) , then Emery cloth to clean up the shaft before fitting the new ones.

That’s all I would of done had I not had the oxyacetylene. Grinder with a flap wheel just grind all the way through at 12 and 6.

 

[Brad93]

This is the spindle assembly on the MTD.

The double pulley has an internal spline at the top. This was seized solid on mine. I had to heat the **** out of it, old man tried to knock it off but ended up bending the pulley.

I managed to get it turning, rounding off the splines, using a big set of stillsons.

Once the pulley was off the rest was straightforward.

On reassembly, the splines were still a tight enough press fit to hold together, with the nut and the bolt back to back, it’s never gonna move.

new spindle assembly is £160. Don’t know how much a new pulley would be.

£15 pair of bearings and about an hour of time to fix it.

 

[Mart63]

Finally got round to doing this job on Monday once the bearings, blowtorch and gas had arrived from eBay. Everything went to plan and it was really a piece of cake. Thanks for all the great advice gents, much appreciated. The total price for parts by the way was a staggering £4.58.

 

[Mart63]

I have a Westwood mower, same as countax more or less, be prepared for the bearings to be stuck on the shaft (corrosion), I had to destroy the old bearing and cut off the inner race to free it (didn't have oxy acet like Brad) , then Emery cloth to clean up the shaft before fitting the new ones.

Much to my amazement the bearings were not stuck to the shaft. Guess I got lucky this time.

 

[Brad93]

Great news. Amazing the cost of a new part from manufacturer compared to actual cost of parts