Concrete bolts

[Burdekin]

What the best way to bolt a baton to a concrete block wall? Dyna bolts or concrete screws or something else? Need to attach a sloping flat roof to the side of my workshop.

Design will be something like this: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/30/f9/ff/30f9ff8f0c1cf1692f33d6651953f625.jpg

 

[KemppiFrog]

I normally use resin fixing, rather than expanding bolts. Puts less stress on the blocks.

 

[cumbriasteve]

I always use Thunderbolts now unless it is a very poor material I am bolting to, you can go close to an edge with no problems.

 

[rockweasel]

Another vote for Thunderbolts. Horse rubbed it's tail against the back of a stable and pushed the whole back wall out and over the edge of the concrete pad it sat on. Once I'd repositioned it, a few Thunderbolts along the length fixed the wall to the concrete. Hasn't moved in over two years.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Thunderbolts are marvellous and we use a lot. One caveat though is that they don't hold in soft materials like Thermalite. In concrete or red brick, there is nothing better.

 

[wyn]

I'd use resin as well.

Concrete blocks always seem to be a bit "crumbly" and even worse if they are hollow.

 

[Kent]

I use resin for most of my fitting on rails gates etc
However were suited concrete screws are awesome for most but not all substrates
Windows doors etc are mostly fitted with them now and they are a darn site better than hammer in fisher type fixings though these are another option perhaps
I haven't opened the link though

 

[pedrobedro]

Thunderbolts are great but you must use the right size drill for them.

edit, that's a batten, cheerleaders use a baton

 

[Johnseat]

Another vote for thunderbolts here.
I like to use thunderbolts for permanently fixed items such as roof timbers ect...
Moving items such as gates and doors I use resin, the resin does allow a small amount of vibration without loosening where as a screw fixture will eventually bang loose.
All of this is only my opinion though of course.

 

[Dee J]

What's on the inside of the block wall... For a really strong solution you could through-bolt right through the wall with lengths of studding and use big washers or plates on the inside....

 

[Burdekin]

Thanks for the suggestions, will look into both.

It's all plasterboard etc on the other side so just need to fix it to the wall.

 

[Kent]

Thunderbolts are great but you must use the right size drill for them.

edit, that's a batten, cheerleaders use a baton

And many of us are on predictive text and auto correct. The rest often didn't get on with school
Personally if I get the point I don't care

 

[Burdekin]

Is this what you guys are calling thunderbolts? http://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-lx-masonry-bolts-12-x-140mm-pack-of-10/1223f

Do you do a pilot hole or just drive them in with a SDS drill?

 

[cumbriasteve]

Yes that's them, they need a full hole of the exact size stated for each size of bolt.

When drilling, keep the drill straight without 'wobbling' which would in effect enlargen the hole diameter and reduce the depth the bolts thread digs in.

 

[cumbriasteve]

These are the one's I use:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-M6-GEN...hash=item2ee62e345c:m:m1h3v5-y62JCo7eQTFTDK_Q

 

[Burdekin]

Thanks.

 

[mike os]

for block i would only ever use chemical anchors doubly so for anything loadbearing like a roof or floor

 

[GW8IZR]

Yep, having hung some big tall lumps of steel on top of buildings I'd always say resin is the way to go..

I tend to stick with Hilti 'cos I'm used to it but If you haven’t got an applicator you can get the stuff that goes in a standard mastic gun.

Should you use chemical anchors make sure you get all the dust out of the hole and if your drilling blocks that are not solid, be careful where you drill as there isnt enough mortar in the tube to fill 'em up :-)

 

[mike os]

Screwfix own resin is fine, cheap as chips too, it is only really subject to shear in this application so it is the bolt that provides the strength. .. I would be using 12 or 16mm studs and 50x50 plate washers, first within 100mm of the end then between rafters or 600 max centers... overkill, but costs nothing and keeps any inspections happy