Colchester coolant switch?

[JustForBants]

Can anyone tell me if the their coolant switches have any feel when switches are pressed with no power supplied?
Above image is of my D6 coolant starter on my MK1 Colchester Bantam 1600 which I am currently rebuilding.
The cable had been cut and the coolant system never used, so not sure if it's all working or not and can't energize until further in the build. The stop start buttons cycle in and out but with no switching wondering if I am missing something or if it may just need power like with a contactor?

Thanks in advance for your time to read and any replies

 

[Agroshield]

The start button would normally just be a momentary contact, that energises the coil and sucks in the contactor.

Similarly, the stop would just break the feed to the coil. So minimal mechanical action as all the "heavy movement" is done by the contactor.

Could you not dismantle it a little further and you will see exactly what the buttons do?

 

[JustForBants]

The start button would normally just be a momentary contact, that energises the coil and sucks in the contactor.

Similarly, the stop would just break the feed to the coil. So minimal mechanical action as all the "heavy movement" is done by the contactor.

Could you not dismantle it a little further and you will see exactly what the buttons do?

Swich was completely dismantled prior to cleaning, painting and Rewiring. It's very mechanical. The stop/start buttons are connected together and pivot on a seasaw via an offset pin and are held captive by the housing. They have no effect on the switch when being toggled so was just hoping someone would be able to confirm that this was normal for this switch? As it was not proven to work prior, and can't be energised currently.

 

[Agroshield]

Do you have a manual for the machine with a parts list? While the switch was installed on a Colchester, it was not made by Colchester, and would have been bought in from someone (possibly Crabtree). That might give you a reference, which you can use to search further.

With the new photo, you can start at the input and output terminals and work backwards. Something has to provide continuity between them, and you can see the three pairs of contacts and pads (currently open). They have to move to the right to complete the circuit. How are they moved? What pushes on whatever pushes on them? If you trace the path of the mechanism, you would see the missing link (if any).

Even if the one you have is u/s, it would not be too difficult to keep the front buttons and put something modern behind them so the classic look is retained.

 

[Martin-Sy]

They have no effect on the switch when being toggled so was just hoping someone would be able to confirm that this was normal for this switch?

I'm away from home atm. Mine has that switch and I will check when I get home at the end of the week.
I'm certain that there is no contactor on mine. It's a very low rated motor for the suds pump.

 

[Agroshield]

OK. I think the photo shows the problem. The leg bone is not connected to the knee bone.

If you undo the slotted screw on the right of the green button and the two PZ screws on the left of the red button, the two buttons plus their surround should NOT come away in your hand.

There are two identical pieces of stamped metal linking green and red buttons. The end of the bar circled in red in the photo below should go between the two on the green button side.



There is also a piece of tufnol sheet that should be behind the switch assembly and in front of the black part in the photo. Only the bar should go through the hole in it. I will draw it in case you want to make one.

The patent for the switch is available (fig 1 is upside down compared to the photo):

 

[Agroshield]

Drawing, data plate (Patents 686688, 686739, 686740), and how button connects to switch body via link bar.

 

[JustForBants]

I'm away from home atm. Mine has that switch and I will check when I get home at the end of the week.
I'm certain that there is no contactor on mine. It's a very low rated motor for the suds pump.

Awesome, that would be perf

Do you have a manual for the machine with a parts list? While the switch was installed on a Colchester, it was not made by Colchester, and would have been bought in from someone (possibly Crabtree). That might give you a reference, which you can use to search further.

With the new photo, you can start at the input and output terminals and work backwards. Something has to provide continuity between them, and you can see the three pairs of contacts and pads (currently open). They have to move to the right to complete the circuit. How are they moved? What pushes on whatever pushes on them? If you trace the path of the mechanism, you would see the missing link (if any).

Even if the one you have is u/s, it would not be too difficult to keep the front buttons and put something modern behind them so the classic look is retained.

Yes have the manual, shows the Swich but no internal views or information.

It's a crabtree D6 but again no information online hense the post...

If you push and or pull on the central link in the last image it pushes the sprung contact carriage to the right completeing the 3 connections, but doesn't move when connected to the buttons.

Very odd as I can only see I way it can possibly fit together (unless someone is missing)

This is why I asked if power was needed to energize maybe something gets pulled in magneticly so the buttons have a reaction.

 

[JustForBants]

I'm away from home atm. Mine has that switch and I will check when I get home at the end of the week.
I'm certain that there is no contactor on mine. It's a very low rated motor for the suds pump.

Perfect thank you

 

[JustForBants]

Drawing, data plate (Patents 686688, 686739, 686740), and how button connects to switch body via link bar.

View attachment 495544

View attachment 495542

View attachment 495543

Sorry didn't see this before replying to your last message.

You may have found the key!
My link bar is attached to the central pivot point not the start button pin

Off to the workshop to see if this is the answer...

Thanks again.

 

[JustForBants]

Brilliant! That was absolutely the difference between a working switch.

Link arm was attached incorrectly to the wrong point.

Thanks for your time and effort it is greatly appreciated

Regards

Matt

 

[Pete.]

Dontou have 3 phase power supply? You might find that contactor reluctant to hold in if all you have is 240v single phase.

 

[Agroshield]

You might find that contactor reluctant to hold in if all you have is 240v single phase.

The D6, like the dozer, is purely mechanical. The patent diagram shows its internals. The patent relates to the overload (the normal bimetallic strips).

I cannot remember the details, so please help out, but I think on the MEM ones, there is something about connecting the overloads in series when using on single phase.