Cloudy headlights

[nickk]

Bought this kit in April,time to get around to it,but it’s no improvement,did the n/s only yet it is barely any better than the o/s.
Using a battery drill on low speed and moderate pressure working down the grits a s instructions,rinsing regularly. This after 2 hours!
Where am I going wrong?

 

[MetalMonkey]

Pictures?

 

[mr haynes]

On inside?

 

[james butler]

i used a meguires headlight restore kit and it worked really well

 

[nickk]

 

[BrokenBiker]

start with 240 grit, then 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000, then move to g3 compund...when using the g3, start with it neat, give it a good going over then i like to spray down with water to dilute as im polishing until its basically all water, then buff with a microfiber.

ensure the sandpaper is wet at all times and its going to be a lot less labour if you have a DA sander. i use a little 3 inch air powered one. coat with something UV resistant, i use aerosol lacquer. takes me around 30 mins per headlight usually.

looking at the pics, you have still got a fair way to go with the lower grits yet, you havent broken through the original coating, which is what was giving the cloudy issue to start with. you want to get all the original coating off with the lower grit, then the rest are just to get rid of the marks from the previous round of sanding until you end up with a polish

 

[daedalusminos]

Some headlights have a clear UV protective lacquer - you may have to go through that to get acceptable results. You should be able to get it crystal clear though may be slightly yellowed still. The fact the NS now looks worse than the OS suggests you haven't polished previous grade out thoroughly.

Here's after a previous quick polish, you can see the lacquer still in place


Then after the Cerakote treatment...

 

[Slowcoach]

How fine did you go with the sanding, yours or provided in the kit?
Looks like you need to go finer.
I found this pretty good, no sanding just “wax on wax off”, been on since start of the year, 22 years old headlights and tried g3 before. Takes 10 mins. Not really wanting to paint them.

 

[nickk]

How fine did you go with the sanding, yours or provided in the kit?
Looks like you need to go finer.
I found this pretty good, no sanding just “wax on wax off”, been on since start of the year, 22 years old headlights and tried g3 before. Takes 10 mins. Not really wanting to paint them.View attachment 509841
View attachment 509842View attachment 509843

Used the abrasive pads supplied down to 3000., kept the lamp wet which only diluted the compound slightly.

 

[Nomad]

start with 240 grit, then 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000, then move to g3 compund...when using the g3, start with it neat, give it a good going over then i like to spray down with water to dilute as im polishing until its basically all water, then buff with a microfiber...

looking at the pics, you have still got a fair way to go with the lower grits yet, you havent broken through the original coating, which is what was giving the cloudy issue to start with. you want to get all the original coating off with the lower grit, then the rest are just to get rid of the marks from the previous round of sanding until you end up with a polish

Good info thanks, I tried sanding the cloudy yellowed lights on my 20 year old Corsa van, the yellow has gone but they are still cloudy.
Will try again to make sure I've got through the original coating.

Useful thread, thanks for all the info & advice

 

[Slowcoach]

Is there a lacquer in this kit?
Not sure what to suggest, get some v. fine wet and dry and then lacquer them?
Never painted h’lights.

 

[nickk]

This is the result 240/480 wet and dry,then the supplied rotary pads of 800/1000/1500 then 3000 pads,it’s disappointing taken me 4 hours! The second photo is a result of wiping my fingers like I’m clearing condensation.

 

[BrokenBiker]

This is the result 240/480 wet and dry,then the supplied rotary pads of 800/1000/1500 then 3000 pads,it’s disappointing taken me 4 hours! The second photo is a result of wiping my fingers like I’m clearing condensation.View attachment 509849View attachment 509850

you need to spend more time at the lower grits...you can still see the original coating on there...until all of that has gone, you arent going to get anywhere with it...

are you doing this by hand or with a drill/sander?

 

[Migmac]

Think it was the holts kit I used on my daughter’s Feista. Lights came up really well.

 

[MetalMonkey]

Is the hazy patches condensation on the inside or the remains of the coating on the outside. If the latter you need to sand it off before you work up the grits.
Once you have gone through the grits it will still be fairly opaque until you hit it with the polishing compound, which will need some speed and a firm but not heavy pressure to buff out.

I personally use a rotary buffer and a standard sponge buffing pad with some paint polishing compound because I have them already and it gives acceptable results
Once you have got them nice and clear, if you are looking for a short term fix the lacquer sprays are fine, but longer term you will find they don't last - paint protection film might be a better bet, but it is tricky to apply.

 

[nickk]

Is the hazy patches condensation on the inside or the remains of the coating on the outside. If the latter you need to sand it off before you work up the grits.
Once you have gone through the grits it will still be fairly opaque until you hit it with the polishing compound, which will need some speed and a firm but not heavy pressure to buff out.

I personally use a rotary buffer and a standard sponge buffing pad with some paint polishing compound because I have them already and it gives acceptable results
Once you have got them nice and clear, if you are looking for a short term fix the lacquer sprays are fine, but longer term you will find they don't last - paint protection film might be a better bet, but it is tricky to apply.

Outside as im wiping off with my fingers.

 

[QuattroBro]

All of the above advice. I'd also us a hairdrier to get rid of the condensation so you can see where you are and make sure the polishing compound is course enough. I've used Farecla G6 polishing compound and a mini polish on a drill. Shouldn't take that long. Yours look like they were lacquered, make sure that's all sanded off. Even going only as fine as 1200 initially you'd notice the difference once polished. You need cotton, stockinette cloth to polish by hand or microfibre cloths once the mini-mop has done the work.

 

[AVI_8]

I’ve used this Holts kit on my headlights and it brought lenses which were very yellow, brought them up like new

Pardon our interruption...

Unfortunately I’ve deleted the pictures, don’t be afraid to go over the lenses thoroughly with the lower grits.

 

[Turbo]

I did the headlights on my 306 with a da sander. It wasn't working at first because someone had sprayed them with 2k lacquer that was rock hard.

Like the nicks lights it wasn't getting any better. But once I went back to a coarser grade and removed the lacquer it all went well from there. The plastic is relatively soft so it doesn't take long to sand them.

I worked through the grades to P2500 and finished them with G3 and then G10 compound. Never put any protector on them and they've stayed clear.

 

[frank horton]

with the sun, it has to be done once a year here.....