steveburton
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what is the difference between clear coat and lacquer?
or are they the same thing.
thanks,
steve
or are they the same thing.
thanks,
steve
- Thread starter steveburton
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pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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Same thing in my book.
danelectro
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Yep 2 names, same thing!!
Hello Steve,
strictly speaking, lacquer is a type of paint, and it is clear lacquer that is used to put a protective\ decorative coating on paint, wood or bare metal.
It is a relatively new procedure, no doubt driven by car manufacturers trying to get an acceptable finish at a cheaper cost. Personally I would avoid it if I could?
Alec
strictly speaking, lacquer is a type of paint, and it is clear lacquer that is used to put a protective\ decorative coating on paint, wood or bare metal.
It is a relatively new procedure, no doubt driven by car manufacturers trying to get an acceptable finish at a cheaper cost. Personally I would avoid it if I could?
Alec
the snooper
getting older by the day
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it been about donkeys years and is more expensive then the older finishing systems not to mention better the mind boggles
Hi Steve.
Yep both the same thing , just different names. Not sure what piman refers to as being a better way of doing things , i would assume as opposed to single coat i think.
Single coat was ok back in the day , but that was before clear coat / lacquer was commercially available , but we are talking years ago here , perhaps 30 - 40years ago.
Back in the 70,s clear coat began to get more popular due to the paint techniques in use. I can remember mk 3 cortinas with the phsychodelic base coat colour schemes and a 1K cellulose lacquer over the top. 12 millions coats and it still went dull over time lol.
2K was developed to eradicate all the 1k shortcomings , poor gloss retention , less stable in use etc etc. Modern paint technology and colours would not be possible with just 1K lacquer anymore. With advent of modern Waterbased basecoats , xerallics , pearls etc a 2K lacquer is a must for gloss retention , durability etc.
Having said all that i look back with a smile , using cellulose and synthetics , and of course if you are restoring a classic and you want the ultimate in originality , the old paint systems are they way to go LOL
kirk
Yep both the same thing , just different names. Not sure what piman refers to as being a better way of doing things , i would assume as opposed to single coat i think.
Single coat was ok back in the day , but that was before clear coat / lacquer was commercially available , but we are talking years ago here , perhaps 30 - 40years ago.
Back in the 70,s clear coat began to get more popular due to the paint techniques in use. I can remember mk 3 cortinas with the phsychodelic base coat colour schemes and a 1K cellulose lacquer over the top. 12 millions coats and it still went dull over time lol.
2K was developed to eradicate all the 1k shortcomings , poor gloss retention , less stable in use etc etc. Modern paint technology and colours would not be possible with just 1K lacquer anymore. With advent of modern Waterbased basecoats , xerallics , pearls etc a 2K lacquer is a must for gloss retention , durability etc.
Having said all that i look back with a smile , using cellulose and synthetics , and of course if you are restoring a classic and you want the ultimate in originality , the old paint systems are they way to go LOL
kirk
clear over base is a far better way to do it imo
The range of colours ,finishes, flips, pearls, candys metal flake chromes ect ect is far more than you ever had before
its easy to work with when equipped and you get a far better finish its easier to polish, easier to repair the list is endless..
Hello Joe,
a few cons to your pros.
Steve started the post and I assume is an amateur and may want to know whether to use it? Therefore is the extra complication worth it as he won't be using an oven so many paints will not be usable to him?
Spot repairs are more trouble to do, so more expensive and most people are not interested in the fancy paint finishes you mention.
The old fashioned cellulose (which was a revelation when that first came out) is time consuming to get a first class finish, but it is possible for the DIY user. Synthetics are another option, and also don't need a clear overcoat.
Alec
a few cons to your pros.
Steve started the post and I assume is an amateur and may want to know whether to use it? Therefore is the extra complication worth it as he won't be using an oven so many paints will not be usable to him?
Spot repairs are more trouble to do, so more expensive and most people are not interested in the fancy paint finishes you mention.
The old fashioned cellulose (which was a revelation when that first came out) is time consuming to get a first class finish, but it is possible for the DIY user. Synthetics are another option, and also don't need a clear overcoat.
Alec
hi alec
ive been painting with it for the last 12 year i even use it at home in my shed you dont need a oven just a bit of warmth itll go off quicker than celly with the right activators.
We could also go down the uv dry clear coat route 3 mins till its solid..
if you want to do a repair or paint 90% of todays road cars youll need to use it to match whats there,its not really any more difficult to apply infact easier i think.
unless you have a 2k high solid colour vehicle where i would use the afore mentioned,
i have painted a few mini restorations in celly for originality and as you say its so much more time consuming its more tricky to apply even in a controlled environment.and they never stay looking good unless polished every other week.
if it was up to me id of gone a 2k high solid.
IMO if your going to be spraying and have gone out and bought a gun a compressor and airfed(All Needed)then why not use it.
if you are limited to aerosol cans then yes its great for the odd bit here n there and there are some good ones about now but none good enough to spray anything big
synthetics ive not used alot but what i have as been on wheels, where we scrapped it due to it not being as good a finish as base n clear
theres my take on it and i see where you are coming from
ive been painting with it for the last 12 year i even use it at home in my shed you dont need a oven just a bit of warmth itll go off quicker than celly with the right activators.
We could also go down the uv dry clear coat route 3 mins till its solid..
if you want to do a repair or paint 90% of todays road cars youll need to use it to match whats there,its not really any more difficult to apply infact easier i think.
unless you have a 2k high solid colour vehicle where i would use the afore mentioned,
i have painted a few mini restorations in celly for originality and as you say its so much more time consuming its more tricky to apply even in a controlled environment.and they never stay looking good unless polished every other week.
if it was up to me id of gone a 2k high solid.
IMO if your going to be spraying and have gone out and bought a gun a compressor and airfed(All Needed)then why not use it.
if you are limited to aerosol cans then yes its great for the odd bit here n there and there are some good ones about now but none good enough to spray anything big
synthetics ive not used alot but what i have as been on wheels, where we scrapped it due to it not being as good a finish as base n clear
theres my take on it and i see where you are coming from
Hello Joe,
yes, thanks for the response.
My reference to ovens was more to modern base paints, not the clear.
While your comments on cellulose are very true, for amateurs such as myself and others on this forum it has a lot of advantages. I've painted several cars over the years in cellulose, with varied results reflecting the amount of effort preparing them. As someone who even hates washing cars much less polishing them, the point about the durability of cellulose is one I know too well from experience.
Many thanks.
Alec
yes, thanks for the response.
My reference to ovens was more to modern base paints, not the clear.
While your comments on cellulose are very true, for amateurs such as myself and others on this forum it has a lot of advantages. I've painted several cars over the years in cellulose, with varied results reflecting the amount of effort preparing them. As someone who even hates washing cars much less polishing them, the point about the durability of cellulose is one I know too well from experience.
Many thanks.
Alec
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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If you use good quality thinners in your top coat there is no problem with getting a shine on cellulose. High flash thinner is a lot more expensive than gunwash or primer thinners but will make a world of difference to the final job. Don't go for the fastest drying ones unless you are an expert. I've used synthetic also known as alkyd enamel for some jobs and although it is easy to put on it does not last and goes dull after a few years. It's used for commercial vehicles which may be done a few times in their working life.
