Clarke 195tec Turbo

[Batts91]

Hi , i recently got the above welder from a friend for free as he said the motor had packed in .
Ive checked the motor and its fine , but his dad had already removed the motor ,it seems theres a few little bits missing but .
Theres is this red live wire that i have no idea where it goes , it comes off the group of three you can see on the right .

Any help will be very helpfull , theres probably a few more questions down the line .

Thanks James

 

[Batts91]

 

[ejparrott]

As its red its potentially a live feed so be careful! Have you a meter to check what voltage it has? My 'Euro' converted welder (150TE) now has a cable just like that feeding the Euro socket.

 

[Batts91]

Thanks for reply .

Im aware that the cable is probably live so i have not plugged the welder in .

From what i can tell its not a euro torch (im new to this shizzle . But have plenty of experience welding with a mig )

The only thing i can think of is that the live goes direct on the torch but to me it doesnt seem safe . Heres a pic .

Theres nothing else inside that would suggest it bolts onto :/ . This is becoming rather frustrating as i need to crack on with welding up my track bmw e30 .

Thanks again ,James

 

[weaverwelder]

HEAR YOU GO THIS IS PLACE FOR OWNER MANUAL DOWNLOAD FOR FREE
http://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/product_manuals/mig_welders.shtml
I SEEN YOURS IN LIST

 

[mike 109444]

You will need a clamp as per pic to secure the tourch (which is not a euro connector type) the cable does secure to the tourch and you will need at least one or better two brass nuts, one each side with some shake proof washers. The head ach is the thread look to be M10x 1mm or M8 x 1mm both of which are not the normal off the shelf metric nuts (M10 is usually 1.5mm and M8 is 1.25mm) the one on the tourch are the metric FINE. Try ebay.
When you fit the cable with nuts and then the clamp, check with a meter between the thread on the tourch and the metal case of the machine to makesure there is NO connection between them. If there is then somthing is touching/shorting.
If you look at the manual page 30 the red cable is the top right going from the two diodes pointing up and across to the tourch +
Hope that all makes sense! Then you can get on and find any other faults
If not then post back.

 

[mike 109444]

ps if the motor worked ok then there is prob a fault on the pcb. Take a pic of pcb bot sides if poss and post up. Should not be a great amount on it. The circuit diagram in manual does not detail the pcb.

 

[mike 109444]

Not cheep for one nut! Shop around and check it IS M10 not M8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-x-1-0...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item484025a3cc

 

[Batts91]

Brilliant , thanks just the answers ive been looking for .
Ive just text my pal to see if he has any other bits left, i know i forgot the spacers for the motor , ill wait upon his reply and get it clamped down with brass nuts a you say .

As for the pcb ill take a pic tomorrow , what kind of issues could that have ? Would it possibly be buy a new one ? .
I was drawn to the switch/button on the torch but hey what the heck do i know haha .

Thanks very much guys

James

 

[Batts91]

Unfortunatly for me that wireing diagram makes no sense to me , abit beyond my knowledge haha . Thanks .

 

[mike 109444]

To test the tourch switch if you look at your post #4 first pic, the white plug come from the switch. The two wires should be a dead short when the trigger is pressed and an open circuit when released. If you have a meter it should be easy enough to quickly test the operation of the switch. Do you have access to a meter? (any basic one will do).
Don't worry to much about understanding the diagram in the manual most of what it shows is the wiring and interconnections in the welder but shows very little of the pcb's information. The pcb is the square in the middle with the "CODnnnn" number on it.
There is not a great deal on the board and only a few parts on it would cause the problems you (and former owner) have. Most parts on it are just a few bob.
New board not cheep if available.
When taking pics of pcb try and take pic at slight angle to avoid flash washing out the pics!!

 

[Batts91]

Hi thanks the info , appologies on late reply i have been working too hard lately , infact im on a break at work now lol .

Ok i can borrow a tester in the day time and see what comes of that . Ive ordered two m10 brass nuts so ill get them on asap .

As for pics on pcb ill get them uploaded when im home .

Thanks for all your help and advice everyone its much appreciated .

 

[Batts91]

Ive only managed to get a pic with my iphone as forgot to take camera to garage .
So heres the pcb i doubt its a usefull pic but i shall get another .

Also do i just use one brass m10 nut to hold on the live ? . And does anyone know if and where i can get a plastic clamp that holds the fooker in ?

As per thanks in advance guys

 

[mike 109444]

Just been looking at the manual (when all else fails read the manual!) Page 17 shows how to connect the tourch asy as the machine must have orignaly come with the tourch not attached hence instructions. Ref the clamp I would make one up from a chunk of plastic or nylon, drill 10mm hole then cut in half to form half circle drill 2 holes for mount screws. Failing that you could make one from a strip of steel but either way make sure the screws you use don't go right through and touch the metal case, check with meter if unsure. Don't forget to connect the gas pipe while you are in there.
Ref the "not feeding wire" the ori fault you will need to connect machine up and try to see what is and what is not working.
When working correctly once powered on the cooling fan should run.
There should be a CLONK each time you press the trigger the wire feed motor should run (set speed control to mid point!) and the gas valve should operate.
Let us know what happens (or not)
There is a 1Amp fuse and if this is gone then there wont be any fan running and also no power to pcb, check fan is running!
There are also a couple of thermal cutouts and these will also cut a lot of the machine out but will still allow the fan to run.

 

[Batts91]

Ok i think ive sussed what the problem is . Put it together just now and i pressed the trigger and to my shock it all worked so continued to test on and off , Then crunch crunch from the wire feed motor , sounds like a gear is slipping out of place of ******ed in the gearbox .

Im going to take apart and investigate if i can .

 

[Batts91]

Im wrong again . More ivestigating tells me that this thing in the pic is the clonkin noise which cuts out the motor , some points it goes erratic . Clonk clonk clonk .

You may laugh but i gave it a little tap with wood and tapped the pcb and when i tapped the pcb it clonked ? Mean anything ?

Thanks James

 

[Batts91]

 

[mike 109444]

If tapping the pcb (with the correct tool aka a length of wood, good insulator!) made it work then you almostly certianly have a dry solder joint. The large Clonk device is a "contactor" basicly a BIG relay so when you press the trigger which has thin bendy wires attached to it the signal goes to the contactor and this is then able to turn on and off the power for the weld wire + feed motor (via maybe a smaller relay) + gas valve + beer cooler, opps forgot that one does not have the last item fitted!!
If you have a soldering iron and some solder you can remove pcb and reflow the solder joints all over the pcb. bit of a chore on that size of pcb but dooable. Make sure you have a nice cleen iron and a damp cloth to wipe the iron tip from time to time. A lot of electronic faults can be tracked down to dry joints. Make sure you lable any plugs and leads you have to remove with there correct way round and or take pics.

 

[Batts91]

Ouch reflowing the whole board with a soldering iron is a long process , it did take it off and take a couple of pics . It looked all ok but im an amature .
Would using a heatgun be ok you rekon ? As i know reflow/reball machines ar similar ? .

I worked out it was a relay of somesort just not sure if it had a special name .(contactor) .

Heres a couple of pics . Thanks your a mind of knoledge i definatly dont possess

This looks like glue :/

I know i know the cable tie but the nut hasnt come in the post yet .
Made this out of a piece of ali , the nuts are inbetween the spacer and motor and neither bolt are touching the chassis .

 

[mike 109444]

Heat gun NO you will warp the board (special heat guns are used on surface mount components that use a solder paste).
The "glue stuff" is resudue flux from soldering, not a worry.
If you want to reduce the amount to try reflowing start with the heavy/chunky items that due to weight may vibrate loose. The transformer (item with sticker on it) The three transistors mounted to heat sinks. All the cable connections (spade in's and out's) get Iron nice and hot for them as they will soakup heat. The white connector pins. Wire speed controll knob cables.
In pic 3 bottom left, the circular solder pad (larger than others) looks like a typical dry joint as the component lead coming through has a ring around it (might just be the pic) there are other near this that look much the same.
The way to check the clamp is not shorting to the machine chassie is to set your meter to Ohms and lowest setting then one probe to the clamp and one to the machine chassie (a screw hole ect) you should not get a reading (reading will depend on how you meter works)