Clarke 151TE Power Supply Worries

[Porschemaniac]

Hello,

Firstly, I am new to this forum, but having looked at the posts, I am so happy to have found it.

I am in the process of restoring my own personal money-pit (1984 Porsche 944), which will need various buts and pieces of welding. Because of this, I need to replace my current welder.

Currently, I have a SIP Handymate (think it's either 80, or 90 amps). I have to say that I have not been anywhere near the car with this and, having practiced some welds on some scrap 1.5mm sheet, I assumed that I just couldn't weld!! Having read some of the posts elsewhere on the forum, I think it may be more to do with the welder than my lack of ability!!! In any case, it has just started chewing the wire up quite badly, so this, combined with the fact that I want to make good welds on the car, mean that it has to go.

Having read many posts, I have selected the Clarke 151TE as the perfect welder for my needs. My only concern comes down to the power supply issues that others have raised on this forum.

It looks like the consensus of opinion is that it's fine to use this from a doemstic 13 amp supply - which is great. However, the supply cable to my garage is about 20 meters (good quality, thick SWA cable). This is a spur from the domestic ring main, protected by a fused (13 amp) double pole RCD.

I'm guessing that the extra cable run could result in the supply capacity of 13 amp becoming marginal if I'm using the welder at full power? If this happens, I guess it's going to blow the fuse in the RCD unit before the fuse in the welder plug?

Does anyone know what the input current is on this welder at full power? To be honest, I don't think that I'll ever really need to use the welder at full power for long periods, so hopefully, this will not be an issue. Alternatively, if it could be, then I guess that I could go for the 135TE.

Any advice will be gratefully received.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

[^neo^]

It might struggle at full whack if it's 20 metres from a spur. Depends how big the cable is really? Decent diameter armoured cable might handle it fine.
Suppose you could hire one for a day from HSS or someone and try it!

 

[malcolm]

My whole workshop is supplied from a single 6mm feed about 25m long. Used to be 4mm.

On the 4mm there was a 5V drop when the welder is running on a medium setting for 1.5mm sheet. I'd not let it hold you back in choice of welder at all.

 

[Porschemaniac]

Thanks for the reply

Hi Neo,

Thanks for the reply. The cable is only 2.5mm, so it could struggle.

Your suggestion of hiring one is a good idea - I may well give that a go.

Thanks,

Ian.

 

[Porschemaniac]

Thanks for the reply Malcolm

Hi Malcolm,

Thanks for the reply. As I mentioned in the response to Neo, I think that the supply to the garage is probably only 2.5mm SWA. Although, I could be wrong on that - may well be 4mm - I think I'll double check before buying.

Thanks again,

Ian.

 

[malcolm]

2.5mm is probably not ideal, though it's only as bad as welding at the end of a 20m extension lead. It should handle the max current of either welder.

Slightly higher voltage drop might mean you don't get the full oomph as you'll be running on 10V less than normal, though that's an argument for buying the higher power welder. Can't see what you could learn from hiting one.

 

[Porschemaniac]

Thanks Malcolm. I think my mind is made up - as you say, with 2.5mm cable, I guess there could be up to a 10v drop, but I don't ever think that I'll need to use the full whack of this welder.

Cheers again,

Ian.

 

[Porschemaniac]

Thanks to all for your replies. The deed is now done and I'm not a happy man!....I'm beyond happy.....bloomin ecstatic!!!

Couldn't get a 151TE from my local Machine Mart, but did a deal on the old 150TE. It's actually exactly the same machine - the 151 just got a fancy case.

Having set it all up and bought the best plug that I could findm I am very happy to report that it is working fine. I have not pushed it yet - just gone up to about 3/4 power at the moment, but even at that all was OK.

Currently, it's working off a standard 13 amp plug (with a 13 amp fuse fitted). For the sort of work that I'm doing, I really dont think I'll ever be using it at full whack, so I'm sure it will be fine. Nothwithstanding this, I have...erm....modified a few domestic fuses (up to 15 amp) just in case. Won't be specific about how I did that but it involves a 1.5mm drill bit, a pillar drill, a domestic fuse, some 15 amp fuse wire and some solder. I figure that plug with a modded 15 amp fuse would be better than the old trick, which involves putting a bolt in the fuse holder.

I am blown away with how good the welder is; after the Handymate, it's like night and day. Whereas the old gasless used to leave messy beads, with little penetration, the Clarke, from the very first bead, produces lovely neat welds, with good penetration. Having six power settings and a good range of wire speed control, it's also a lot easier to refine the settings, appropriate to what you're doing.

If you are considering buying one of these welders, my advice would be - don't hesitate. It's a great quality unit, which is well built, easy to set up and easy to use. The range of control and available power will probably be more than the average DIYer will ever use and I personally can't fault it. Also, moving to a non-live torch from the permanently live torch on the SIP is a revelation.

So, all in all, I'm a very happy man. Thanks again for the advice.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

[Wozzaaah]

Hehe, I don't think you have to be specific now . I like the cut of your jib though, it is definitely much safer than substituting the fuse for a bolt or a contact tip. You should be absolutely fine running it on 13A anyway, if you were to run it at full whack for long periods the fuse may blow but for normal use it should be fine.

 

[Barkychoc]

I would have thought with the duty cycle of the welder you'll be fine - running it for a longish period flat out will trip the welder itself when it gets too warm - which will give everything a chance to cool down!

 

[Mach1]

load on a 13 amp plug top

Hi

Just a thought that might be of use.
If you use the welder in one place - fit a switched connection unit (spur) next to your power point and wire in a blue 16amp lead socket with a 16amp blue plug on your rig.
You shouldn't get heated connections this way and it isn't as costly as it probably sounds.
One last point-Any garage where work is carried out should have RCD protection to all the power outlets.

Sorry to waffle but if it helps it's worth it.

John