Clarke 135TE Ground Cable

[Geebs]

I've finally got round to sorting out my 135TE. I've replaced the liners, the gas pipes, sorted out a decent regulator and got a argon mix bottle...everything is working great, however the ground cable is really short!

What can I do to either extend or upgrade the cable?

Thanks

Matt

 

[Geebs]

Sorry, realised this should really have gone in the clarke section

 

[eSCHEn]

What mrfuzzy says. Done it with a few wee units and it's dead easy and cheap. Also makes it better to store as you can completely remove the lead when you want.

 

[atomant48]

I did it to my 151. Turned it into a new machine. As above - I cut my cable inside the machine and mounted the dinse plug on the casing. Either way you will have a little bit of the original left between the new cable and the "coil" or whatever it's called.

 

[Cobbler]

A quick solution, a decent heavy jump lead. Not a cheap & cheerful ally one though. Clamp to work, clamp to 'earth' clamp, job done.

 

[Malc_R]

I've finally got round to sorting out my 135TE. I've replaced the liners, the gas pipes, sorted out a decent regulator and got a argon mix bottle...everything is working great, however the ground cable is really short!

What can I do to either extend or upgrade the cable?

Thanks

Matt

Hi - Can you tell me what you used, please - I want to do the same thing. I have just got a 135Te and the regulator looks a really shonky thing.

Cheers

Malcolm

 

[Malc_R]

Either open the machine and replace the cable

OR

cut off the ground clamp
stick a dinse socket on the end (10-25)
new length of return/earth/ground cable with 200amp earth clamp, male 10-25 dinse plug
lets you then have the option of short/long return leads

Hi - Can I ask you about this please....I have opened up my Clarke 135 and the ground wire coming out of the front is ultimately part of the coil within the 'innards' of the machine.....surely even though you may cut the standard cable and replace with a heavier duty cable and clamp, you will still have a section of cable that is the original - wont that be a weak-point in the earth connection ?

What is the benefit of replacing the cable if you still have a section of the original remaining ?

Cheers

Malcolm

 

[eSCHEn]

It's not so much that the quality of the earth cable is at fault more that it's just not long enough. You can extend it by splicing a new one to the old one and that will work fine. However, if you fit a dinse socket like this you have a nice neat finish on the outside of the welder. You then use an earth lead like this which can be as long or short as you like. You can use a long one when you need it and a short one where it's more convenient. You can also completely remove the lead at the end of the day and store it out of the way rather than some kind of unruly python lying there waiting to trip you up

Personally I have little room in my place so I share one lead between machines, saves money and space.

 

[optima21]

when I modified my Clarke 151te I used some copper bar to make a new connector. it ws soldered and crimped to the new earth cable and use grub screws to connect to the choke

or you may be able to get butt connectors for car battery cables (that use grub screws)
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/162/category/33

 

[Geebs]

Thanks, would 200amp

Hi - Can you tell me what you used, please - I want to do the same thing. I have just got a 135Te and the regulator looks a really shonky thing.

Cheers

Malcolm

Hi Malcom, I had the same issues with the rubbish regulator, so i bought one of these from weldequip, it connects up to the nylon tube that runs to the gun. Then I found a 9ltr bottle of argon mix at a local gas supplier, which will work out cheaper and easier than using the disposables

 

[Geebs]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm opting to install a dinse socket and run a 3m lead with new clamp, got the whole lot for £22, though I might need to buy a butt connector to sort out the connection inside the welder