Clarke 100EN wire continually bunching-up

[foy9999]

Hi guys

I've had this welder for years and only ever used it for heavier metal with flux-core.

My SIP Migmate broke last week so, out of desperation, I got the Clarke up and running with CO2 and normal (0.6) wire.

It's welding very well but for some reason am having a lot of problems with wire.

I did turn the wheel round so it's the correct groove for 0.6 wire.

I've had the torch and everything apart to get the tangled wire out and then it works ok for a bit then we're back to square #1.

Any ideas?

wire bunching-up in here

Clarke 100EN

 

[gaz1]

you will want a wire liner to be reftted as the wire is jamming inside of the liner

this is also caused by bits of rust on the copper wire catching on the liner you can fit a wire cleaner before it

if you want to test use a foam brillo scrubbing pad before it goes near the black feeder

 

[foy9999]

you will want a wire liner to be reftted as the wire is jamming inside of the liner

this is also caused by bits of rust on the copper wire catching on the liner you can fit a wire cleaner before it

if you want to test use a foam brillo scrubbing pad before it goes near the black feeder

It's brand-new spool of wire. Well there's not much left of it now as I've had to cut so much of it away but it's not rusty.

Also the wire fed thru the liner very easily by hand and i had no issues with it with the (thicker) flux-cored wire.

It is perhaps the tension on the spool. It felt very tight so I loosened it off a lot.

Also. Does it matter if the spool os unwinding from the top (as in photo) or from below?,

 

[voipio]

The rusting on the welder suggests it's been stored outside under cover where damp can get at it, so the chances are that the liner may have rust on it. I'd second @gaz1's suggestion about replacing the liner.

First thing to check, though, is that the cable assembly between welder and torch needs to follow a straight line (usually not practicable) or to follow a smooth and large a curve as possible. In the second photo, the cable looks as if it might be slightly kinked, where it crosses under itself. That wouldn't be good for obtaining a smooth wire feed. See if that can be straightened/smoothed out.

 

[tom2207]

looks like its due a liner anyways , they are only a fiver or so ,,, so no harm in swapping one out as a starter

 

[Wozzaaah]

It's brand-new spool of wire. Well there's not much left of it now as I've had to cut so much of it away but it's not rusty.

Also the wire fed thru the liner very easily by hand and i had no issues with it with the (thicker) flux-cored wire.

It is perhaps the tension on the spool. It felt very tight so I loosened it off a lot.

Also. Does it matter if the spool os unwinding from the top (as in photo) or from below?,

That spool is correctly fitted and the spool tension won't be your issue.
If the wire is birdsnesting like that then there's resistance further on.
I would definitely fit a new wire liner. Also, have you replaced the contact tip?

 

[Nomad]

The bigger the gap between the roller and the liner, the easier it is for the wire to birds nest when it leaves the roller.
I use metal liners in my Clarke and they seem to last better than the original - plastic - liner (curtain wire can also be used as a liner if that's what you have handy)
When fitting the new liner make sure it's almost touching the roller.
Also look for bends or kinks in the torch cable, the protective outer had fractured on mine so the inner liner was bending at that point..

 

[dobbslc]

When fitting the new liner make sure it's almost touching the roller.

I was going to say this, the gap is letting the wire deflect and then bunch up.
Where you can see bunched up wire you should be seeing liner.

 

[foy9999]

Interesting points about the liner being close(r) to the wheel.....

I took it all apart again today. Real ball-ache as the two slotted screws at the front of the cover over the cable/liner don't have captive-nuts on the other side so you need to take the full cover off to hold the nuts.

Anyway when I put it back together I made a point of pulling the liner as close as possible to the end of the cover so the two small 'Phillips' screws would hopefully keep ot tight there instead of letting it slip inside.

The welding went fine but I was only doing it in small spurts and checking the wire every time between welds.

There's a limit to how far you can pull the liner back as it's attached to the valve inside the torch at its other end

 

[foy9999]

looks like its due a liner anyways , they are only a fiver or so ,,, so no harm in swapping one out as a starter

I swapped a liner recently on my SIP and it was real pain as it wasn't long enough and I had to add a bit of the old one on and tape it up. Got there in the end but made me wary of doing another one

 

[Nomad]

On smaller Clarke (like my trusty Pro90) I use curtain wire - unscrew the end piece from the original liner, screw it onto the curtain liner, cut to any length you like.
I've bought Pro90 metal liners before and I'm sure they were over long so you could cut to length.