Clamp

[p0689109]

I bought this at a auction I have used for years along with 4 other sash clamps. Because of covoid they changed to online only so viewing is down to their photos and whatever words they cobble together to explain the items. In this case it just stated the obvious of five clamps. The big orange one caught my eye as it looked like a big Carver. Overall length 19in with a width of 15in and the large long part of the unit 3/4in thick. The Main unit is also heavy. Anyway I won the items and found on pick up, at home, that all the items were not usable. After complaining to them, especially about the "Carver" which I found was solidly seized, they commented that they mentioned that on the items description. Actually they had added it after I had viewed! Still I thought a bit of heat should loosen it but no luick as yet. I have oxy/acetelene but think I might need a bigger nozzle as my largest is a no.8. Anyway whilst giving the clamp a good look I cannot find the Carver name on it at all. All that is discernible are the emblem/logo that is diamondish shape with R in the middle, a number/code 1257/2 and a what I think is 8PF. Can anybody clarify its make and any hints as to getting the screw moving again. From what I can see of it there is no sign of damage to it and the hole. At the moment the end of the screw is past the bottom of the hole it screws into.

 

[Brad93]

That's a carver

 

[James1979]

That’s a carver without a doubt. Not sure what the R is. Do they make for anyone else? Like Ridgid branded as snap on.

Put it in a bucket of diesel overnight. It’ll help on the threads.

T257-2 is a carver number

Carver Clamps T257-2 Clamp Jaw Only (Single) C3010| at Zoro

Carver Clamps - T257-2 Clamp Jaw Only (Single) available at Zoro.co.uk - UK's Leading Supplier of DIY Tools and Supplies'

www.zoro.co.uk

 

[p0689109]

Thanks for confirming the make. But unless I can get it freed it will be just a dead weight. Are spare parts available if I have to resort to cutting and drilling to get it out?

 

[James1979]

Post 2 https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/carver-clamp-spares.102052/

Carver catalogue - chapter 7

https://carver-clamps.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Carver_Clamps_A4_Product_Brochure_09.18.pdf

 

[brightspark]

oxy acet will heat that up no probs. put it in the vice heat it up on the threads and give it a whack with a hammer and it should loosen no probs while hot

 

[p0689109]

Tried just that brightspark but no joy what so ever. There is a limit to how much clout you can give a vice before they give way and I gave the clamp a hiding!. I have just dumped the clamp in a bucket of red diesel so will give it a couple of days or so to see what happens.
Checking the parts list was not helpful as there is no breakdown of the unit. It metions the item, the moveable jaw of the T257/2 but nothing about its bits!

 

[carbon]

The ‘T’ bar is not original so it may have had a hard life. The thread looks straight. Let it soak for a week or more then try rocking it both ways after heating it

 

[p0689109]

Yes the T bar is useless and I am going to cut and replace with something more substantial. If only it would rock but it is solid at the moment.

 

[roofman]

Yes the T bar is useless and I am going to cut and replace with something more substantial. If only it would rock but it is solid at the moment.

Get the whole threaded boss area cherry red for at least 2 to 3 mins and unless the threads are snarled up really bad which i dought then that thing will release deffo but got to be cherry red and not just blue hot.

 

[p0689109]

Noted roofman but I reckon I will need a bigger nozzle as the object is a huge lump and will need a lot of heat to get it cherry red. The biggest nozzle I have is a 8 at the moment.

 

[hotponyshoes]

Spares are available but most places only seem to list the rack or the complete jaw. I'm sure I have seen part numbers for the screws and bits though, maybe have a trawl through the carver website?

That screw on the clamp looks to me like it is wound fully out so get a mallet and you should be able to work the jaw loose and then knock it off the rack.
Then get it in a vice, remove the nut/bolt that's acting as the handle and stick a length of Tool Steel or a breaker bar or something in the hole and give it some man love in a clockwise direction.

 

[Paul.]

The problem with clamps is that they are abused / overtightened, the clamping screw has a half ball on the end and I suspect that it has been flattened and has spread so that its diameter is now more than the root of the thread, then when an attempt has been made to unscrew it through the arm it has nadgered the last couple of threads and locked it up, that's why it wont move either way, I'm not sure that heat is the answer here, by all means try it, but you may end up having to drill the ball off and also sacrifice a couple of threads in the arm as well, the screw looks to be right out so the arm should come of the clamp, (you have to push against the spring to move it along the rack).

 

[p0689109]

I will double check the ball end as best I can when I decant it from its diesel bath next week. It is well down the the threaded female channel and from that I would think it is Ok as surely it would/should have jammed as soon as the ball end entered the threaded female? I doubt a hammer alone will move it as it is so tight you would think it was litterly part of the casting. I reckon that i might need a furnace to get it to the cheery red needed to attempt to get it free. Anybody in the Stoke on Trent area available to take on the challenge? Beer vouchers will be provided of course!

 

[Screwdriver]

I could fix it but it would be uneconomical unless I got to keep it.

Problem with working on other peoples stuff for peanuts is if/when it goes wrong, you're suddenly looking at a substantial liability in either time or money (or both).

If it was mine I could be more "relaxed" (i.e. more brutal with it). I would attack it with heat (lots of it) and if that didn't work, cut the end off, drill it out until I reveal the threads and turn up a new bolt. By that time I'd be a day in and looking at another half a day to get it back to snuff. Stick two lots of P+P on top of that and it's £50 for an old friend at mates rates.

So if you can't get anyone else interested, I'd be happy to bung you a few quid to take it off your hands, attack it with everything I have and video the ensuing chaos for the general amusement of the forum.

 

[p0689109]

No thanks.

 

[Screwdriver]

 

[p0689109]

I took it ouit of the diesel the other day and actually got it to move albeit a 1/8 of a turn, if that. I removed the old bolt and used a length of 1/2in bar which is the size of the whole. I moved it back and forth a couple of times and have now put it back in the diesel and see if it gets any better. I need to get a longer length of bar though to shift it easier.

 

[Screwdriver]

Looks bent. Probably thread bound. No harm in trying I guess...

 

[p0689109]

It does not look bent in real time but because of the upper cover the screw cannot be fully seen. I will get a longer bar and try again this weekend.