Chrome Paint....????

[gerrymoore]

The 1965 bike I'm restoring needs quite a bit of re-chroming. The speedo bezel is one of those parts but it is extremely difficult to remove and these speedo units are rarer than hens teeth and with my luck I will end up breaking the glass trying to remove it! I think it's made of chromed brass.

As it doesn't need to 'show your face in it' is there any sort of paint I can use to make it 'shiny' ??
Seen a few 'chrome' sprays on EBAY with good reviews...anyone used any of them?

 

[Dieselman 63]

Yep, you can get Humbrol spray aluminium which can be buffed to a gloss finish.

 

[123hotchef]

I have used the platicote chrome spray paint looked pretty good also used the brush on version of it too

 

[Dieselman 63]

Plasticote is rubbish in my opinion. Molotow, Ironlak or MTN are the best brands if you want reasonably priced aerosol paint.

 

[langy]

I've tried them all and not found one that looks like chrome or lasts yet, nothing beats real chrome

 

[gerrymoore]

Thanks guys..the Humbrol looks OK..... but Langy's got me thinking now whether I can remove the bezel with something like a dremel..if I can get it off and chromed and then even glue it back on it may be worth the risk...suppose I could always get a piece of glass cut to fit.

 

[500e]

3 to look at

http://www.sprayonchrome.com/index2.html

http://customcreationpaints.co.uk/contact-custom-creation-paints

http://www.akcarparts.co.uk/chrome-spray-paint-400ml-10236-p.asp

 

[ford34/2]

http://jdo1.com/index.html

http://www.speedorepairs.co.uk/

http://www.classicbezels.com/

 

[Gareth J]

I do a fair bit of Speedo restoration work and I know what you mean about trying to remove a replace bezels intact.

Have tried a couple "chrome" sprays on them and can echo the comments above.

I'd give it a go in situ though. It's non destructive and you can always try to take it off later for re-chroming if your not happy.

Make sure you mask the glass well - the number of glasses that get scuffed when people are sanding back the bezel is rediculous. And prep the thing well, a well uniform coat of primer is needed on top of any pit filling you may need to do as the chrome spray goes on best in one hit - so it wets nicely and gives the best finish.

I'd be nervous about gluing the bezel back on without anything to clamp it down. It needs to squeeze the rubber seal so it is waterproof. If you create a leak, you risk crusting up the mechanism.

Don't worry too much about the glass. So long as it's flat, it will be easy to get another made up. I can possibly help out here if needed so long as the thickness isn't wierd.

I've not found anything that will lacquer on top that makes it look better.

 

[marlinspike]

Funnily enough there was a bit on Counting Cars the other week where they were trying out a really impressive chrome paint spraying kit.

I looked into this a bit ages ago as my door handles need doing. I looked on modelling forums and saw a few recommendations for Alclad2:

http://alclad2.com

Might be worth a look.

 

[gerrymoore]

Guess what I just did...lost a few pounds in sweat..but it came off relatively easy with a 1/4" wood chisel slowly, slowly edging it up. The dent in it was already there..not sure if I can get it out. The glass has a bonded rubber seal on it which is perfect. I just hope that once i get it chromed, I won't damage the new chrome bending the bezel back on!

Not sure whether to try and clean the face and needles or leave well alone??

I have another, spare, speedo to do yet...this will hopefully bring me some dosh in to buy other parts I haven't got

Thanks for all the replies..I have a great deal of very small nuts and things that need finishing so I may try some of the above ideas....

 

[Gareth J]

Good work! The dent may be recoverable you're careful.

The original would've probably been rolled on with some kind of rotating bearing device. Not easy to replicate on an oval speedo though so you may have to tap, tap, tap it back with a soft thing.

Maybe anneal it now, before it's chromed? So you get a chance to squeeze it down.

A smear of silicone grease around the rubber seal will help keep it watertight without messing up the rubber.

Dials; ah, the ones I've played with can be very, very delicate. Some hold pretty fast but others, the printing wipes off with just water! I'd say carefully try dabbing the printed colour (white...?) With a bit of soft cotton the opposite colour. If you get any trace of paint removal, you can stop before it's too late. Then work your way up to just warm soapy water. No hydrocarbon solvents.

It's easy enough to repaint the needles with a fine artists brush. Ordinary white undercoat works for me, thinned a touch if needed to get the coating smooth.

 

[gerrymoore]

Hi Johnser...what a pity you're so far away!! I think I may leave the dials and needles...they are not too bad. Not sure what you mean by annealing? I think the bezel is brass so do I heat it up and leave it to cool and this makes it easier to bend back..or am I completely wrong

 

[Burdekin]

I use VHT chrome paint for restoring plastic parts that are chrome effect. It's nae too bad I think.

 

[Gareth J]

Hi Johnser...what a pity you're so far away!! I think I may leave the dials and needles...they are not too bad. Not sure what you mean by annealing? I think the bezel is brass so do I heat it up and leave it to cool and this makes it easier to bend back..or am I completely wrong

Yea, that's it. Not sure on the specifics but if you know what it is, brass??, a quick Google will give some clues I'm sure.

 

[MattF]

Hi Johnser...what a pity you're so far away!! I think I may leave the dials and needles...they are not too bad. Not sure what you mean by annealing? I think the bezel is brass so do I heat it up and leave it to cool and this makes it easier to bend back..or am I completely wrong

Heat to a dull/cherry red and leave to cool.