cheezburger
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- Thread starter cheezburger
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shenion
Tool Pack Rat
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- Stone Mountain, GA USA
It has no gas solenoid for TIG or foot control input. Will be completely manual (saying it is a "TIG" machine is a far stretch), scratch start and require a gas valve on the torch. I don't even see a trigger plug.
There is no mention if they will support the warranty, if it breaks who will fix it or will you have to send it back to China? That is the main thing on cheap inverters, if they break, will the seller support them.
For stick, I would want more than 100A.
There is no mention if they will support the warranty, if it breaks who will fix it or will you have to send it back to China? That is the main thing on cheap inverters, if they break, will the seller support them.
For stick, I would want more than 100A.
hi , that doesnt look too bad for the price .
only 80 amps tho will run only run 2.5mm arc rod max probably good for about 4-5 mm steel .
As for the tig side what do you class as thin material ? its scratch start on tig which is fine but you might struggle on anything below 1mm or so . No slope down and you will need to buy a tig torch and argon regulator .
The gas flow will be controlled manually from the torch ,(so remember to torn it on before you touch down
A torch and regulator will be around £60-70 i reckon .
oh and get yourself a an auto mask such as a parweld or siflite about another £60 ish .
it all depends what you want to do with the machine ...... good to learn on or ocassional light use
for anything else get a higher spec /more expensive unit
cheers mike
cheers mike
only 80 amps tho will run only run 2.5mm arc rod max probably good for about 4-5 mm steel .
As for the tig side what do you class as thin material ? its scratch start on tig which is fine but you might struggle on anything below 1mm or so . No slope down and you will need to buy a tig torch and argon regulator .
The gas flow will be controlled manually from the torch ,(so remember to torn it on before you touch down
A torch and regulator will be around £60-70 i reckon .
oh and get yourself a an auto mask such as a parweld or siflite about another £60 ish .
it all depends what you want to do with the machine ...... good to learn on or ocassional light use
for anything else get a higher spec /more expensive unit
cheers mike
cheers mike
- Messages
- 6,338
Its a draper one so your get some back up if it goes wrong, I have no idea where its made, but id imagine it might be one of the Telwin rebadges...
Price wise I think you might get more for your money, something like a Parweld, there cheep and cheerful but seem to be decent machine, and have a UK based warranty also, I have feeling DIY welding might sell em.....
Price wise I think you might get more for your money, something like a Parweld, there cheep and cheerful but seem to be decent machine, and have a UK based warranty also, I have feeling DIY welding might sell em.....
cheezburger
Member
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- 19
I want a TIG is for classic car body work, I originally bought a MIG but it soon became apparent that there is way too much heat going in to the metal.
I can't give an exact figure for what I'm going to be welding but thinnest would probably be around 1mm.
I'll get something better if It won't do the job, I have no idea of what I need in a TIG to do this kind of work.
I can't give an exact figure for what I'm going to be welding but thinnest would probably be around 1mm.
I'll get something better if It won't do the job, I have no idea of what I need in a TIG to do this kind of work.
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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- Bedford UK
Using TIG on car bodywork is a very skilled process (one that's beyond me). Torch control has to be much more accurate with TIG, so I use it only on the bench where I can position myself properly.
Reading through some of your previous posts, the MIG ought to be much better for bodywork. Minimum setting for 1mm and below, 0.6mm wire, and argoshield light gas ought to work. Below 1mm you might need to use an on-off technique.
Reading through some of your previous posts, the MIG ought to be much better for bodywork. Minimum setting for 1mm and below, 0.6mm wire, and argoshield light gas ought to work. Below 1mm you might need to use an on-off technique.
cheezburger
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I'm getting some 0.6 today and an auto darkening visor, we'll see what happens. Is there a massive difference between the 0.8 and 0.6 wire?
Forget that one -- you might look at a 200 amp Rehmann DC TIG, 2 years guarantee (which they seem to honour) HF start and post flow, with stick capability. On eBay.
But, as Malcolm says, TIG on car bodywork (where it's attached to the car, at any rate) is a whole new ball game. Out of position TIG work is tricky (and out of position really means not sitting down at a bench!), and TIG is much slower (and requires more skill) than MIG.
MIG is pretty much the universal method used in car repair (classic and modern) for very good reasons.
But, as Malcolm says, TIG on car bodywork (where it's attached to the car, at any rate) is a whole new ball game. Out of position TIG work is tricky (and out of position really means not sitting down at a bench!), and TIG is much slower (and requires more skill) than MIG.
MIG is pretty much the universal method used in car repair (classic and modern) for very good reasons.
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
- Messages
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- Bedford UK
The thinner wire reduces the current, and also allows finer control of wire speed. Again reducing wire speed will reduce current.
Post some photos of your welds with the 0.6mm wire - we ought to be able to point you to ways of adjusting your technique to make it more suitable for thinner steel.
