Bookmarked. Got a 044 with a new engine and got Alaskan sawmill on the shopping list.
Never heard of double ended bars.If you intend milling a lot of timber its worth getting or making an auxiliary oiler.
https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/pro...MIjb3Pyubo-AIVBLDtCh0C1gTdEAQYBSABEgKONPD_BwE
Also worth looking at the double ended bars.
Bob
Best think for any real work on a chain mill…Never heard of double ended bars.
Never heard of double ended bars.
The difference is you can manhandle an Alaska mill almost anywhere, a band mill really needs vehicular accessI've always reckoned a bandsaw mill would not only be less scary, but compared to the thickness of a chainsaw blade a lot less waste. I bet you loose at least one plank in a decent sized log with the price of timber that's got to be a significant loss.
I've always reckoned a bandsaw mill would not only be less scary, but compared to the thickness of a chainsaw blade a lot less waste. I bet you loose at least one plank in a decent sized log with the price of timber that's got to be a significant loss.
Our wood miser was a great bit of kit but never had the capacity for big butts.
Alaskan mill with beefy saw - I use a Husqvarner 2100 with ripping chain. Uses a lot of fuel, is slow heavy work, and turns a lot of good timber into a pile of sawdust! When cutting some wide european larch 20ft long, it was using a tankful of fuel per slab.....
Here its cutting some old wide ash planks.
View attachment 354976
Or you could use one of these - 5ft dia yankee insert tooth blade driven by ancient Perkins 6354 ex tipper truck engine.
Its surprising how good the finish and accuracy can be from a chainsaw mill. A friend used to use one of these Logosol mills to cut Forestry Commission trees with impressive resultsThat's a very nice looking cut you have there. Impressive.