Centrifugal clutch removal

[Robotstar5]

Our flail mower is powered by a (normally) reliable Honda GX390 engine, I always turn off the fuel and let it run dry so normally starts fine next time it's used, come to use it today and it won't start.
I don't want to take too much apart at the stables as working area is dirt, grass etc. so I want to take the engine off to get it to a cleaner working environment.
I only had my toolbag I carry in the car and got the covers off to find I need to remove the centrifugal clutch to release the engine so I will put together some tools for the next visit,
I'm thinking:
Sockets
Impact driver
Pry bars
Circlip pliers
Puller
Any other suggestions from the collective?

Overview

Drive side

Drive pulley on top of centrifugal clutch

 

[Erie Fred]

Port-A-Torch......

Seriously, your list looks complete.
I might suggest taking a 3lb hammer & brass punch along if the clutch shaft is tapered.

 

[m_c]

If you're lucky, it's only held by the bolt, and will slide off once the bolt is removed.
If you're unlucky, it could be a taper shaft and will require some form of puller/hammer.

My guess is that it'll be a parallel shaft engine, so hopefully once the bolt is out, the pulley will slide off without too much effort.
Provided it's a M8 bolt, then it's a parallel shaft. If it's a 2/8UNF, then it's 50/50..

 

[Turbo]

Why on earth are you removing the engine to repair it?

It could be a very simple problem to fix and you are making a lot of extra work for nothing!

If it has oil alert check if the engine is low on oil.

Firstly take out the plug and check for a spark. Bring a can of wd40 with you, take off the air filter and spray a bit into the carb inlet. If the engine fires you have a fuel problem.

Check if the fuel is reaching the carb bowl. If not check the tank filter and the one at the fuel tap.

If you have fuel getting to the carb blow up through the main jet, it's above where the float bowl bolt screws in. You can use your lungs and a bit of tube if you've no airline. Or use carb cleaner or the wd40 you brought.

They are the most common issues and can be easily check with minimum tools.

 

[Migmac]

On our flail, the safety kill switch would fail pretty regularly.

 

[Robotstar5]

Why on earth are you removing the engine to repair it?

It could be a very simple problem to fix and you are making a lot of extra work for nothing!

My post was badly worded the mower is at the stables a few miles from home so I have to take all I think I will need with me.
Today I should have the kit to carry out the checks you suggest, but I wanted know what tools I should take to get the engine off if needed
Hopefully it will be a simple fix as the engine has probably only done 20 - 25 hours run time.

 

[pedrobedro]

Try some fresh fuel in it first and check for a spark. Is the clutch bolt left hand thread ? A lot of them are.

 

[jmp49]

Wondering why you want to take the clutch off if your removing the motor... Is it not possible to unbolt it from the main frame of the flail and tilt it to slacken the belts and just walk them off save disturbing it all?
I have same arrangement on a powerfloat, and you can do this on that. Mind you its been abandoned in the garden for a couple of years now, so probably will require more fettling than yours!

Edit I see the m6's behind the pulley on reflection, maybe you could unbolt the lower half of the cowling & take the idler pulley off instead for slack

 

[knighty]

if it put up a fight I'd be tempted to remove that black bracket and take it with the engine

oops jmp49 typed faster than me :-o

 

[OJCar]

What is the wire circled in blue for?
There seems to be another wire loose to the left of it as well.

Are you getting a spark at the plug?

Assuming fresh fuel / plug / oil check etc fails to fix at the Stables and a Return to Base Workshop is needed.

Black bracket seems to be in two parts.
So if the tension is taken off the Belt Tensioner Pulley Arm, can the belts be removed leaving the clutch in place?