Our house is a bit of a mess. Every room needs re plastering as the old plaster is blown. As we're living in here, it means getting one or two walls done at weekend. Just before Xmas, and with the thought of a cold winter with the old system, we had new heating fitted. Now, I have to take the rads off to plaster. Not a problem, I'm ok doing that, putting them back, bleeding and re pressurising if needed but I'm also aware the system has that rust inhibitor stuff in it and each time I take a rad off, it must be getting weaker! Can someone tell me how to top it up? Also, I've still got 3 rooms left to do so if possible I'd like to wait untill these are done. How long is reasonably safe to leave the system running on a weak mix?
- Thread starter Glyn
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Omniata
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Shouldn't be a problem, nothing to get worked up over 
You can get it in tubes from B&Q and Wickes in tubes like silicone sealant....
Connect a radiator up, shut off both valves, open up the bleed valve, screw in and pump...
Screw bleed nut back in, open valves and your away...
You can get it in tubes from B&Q and Wickes in tubes like silicone sealant....
Connect a radiator up, shut off both valves, open up the bleed valve, screw in and pump...
Screw bleed nut back in, open valves and your away...
The easiest method is a tin of Fernox F1. It comes in a pressurised can and connects to the filling loop or to a radiator. Just press the trigger and it is in in 5 seconds. No need to drain a rad or drop system pressure first. Its quite expensive so unless you are going to be months doing the rest of the system i wouldnt bother untill you have finished.
If the system originally had enough inhibitor put in then removing a couple of rads wouldn't make a difference,The only way to tell for definate is to use a test paper. You can actually put to much inhibitor in and that can make the water froth up and cause other problems. If you are going to have had every rad off then then just wait till you've finished and either get some sentinel x100 or Fernox F1, some of the cheaper versions can sometimes still give air/hydrogen problems. The cheapest way is a normal bottle that you'll have to pour into a drained rad other wise you can buy more expensive ones as previously mentioned pressurised cans or Fernox do a mastic gun version that either screws onto a rad bleed or your filling loop comes with everything in the packet incl bleed key! These are more expensive to buy but can be easier.
Mike
Mike
