Central heating programmer strange ticking noise.

[Nick67GT]

Put the central heating timer onto constant today and it works no problem, but there's a rhythmic ticking noise coming from it.

I can only describe it as a sequence of 6 clicks, a little faster than a ticking clock, say one every half second. It's clearly audible. The sequence then repeats about every 20 seconds ad infinitum. It's driving crazy. It does this whatever programme is selected.

I've tried adjusting it with a gentle blow of the fist, similar to that used when fixing older TV sets, but it's made no difference whatsoever.

Is it time to replace or can it be fixed? How difficult is a replacement?

Here's the culprit:

 

[brightspark]

that's an oldie all the modern ones are on a standard backplate. looks to be just a single output time switch not a dual output programmer should be easy enough to replace and wire if you have half a clue

 

[Nick67GT]

You're right about it being a simple control - it's linked to a combi boiler, so h/w is on demand and it only controls the heating via a conventional room stat.

Is the backplate likely to be compatible with current models? I'm reasonably ok on electrics as long as there's not a rats nest going into the thing

I'll get it off an try to photograph the wiring....

 

[MoreWellie]

just the fact that is on the wall squint would drive me nuts.....

Limited experience but I have always found the backplates are different and supplied with the timeclock

 

[angellonewolf]

theres a fair few wire i would guess in that one depending if there is a box near the boiler that the conections are done in or if all connected through that box

 

[Revs1972]

My Honeywell thermostat receiver packed up yesterday. Did all the tips to get it working again, new internal batteries etc, but to no avail.
Went on tinternet to find a replacement , and had an email from screwfix that had the Hive system. It was cheaper than replacing the thermostat and receiver so I bought it and changed the whole lot. Black Friday deal at £108
Easy enough to fit and wire up.
Result, can now turn on, off, boost etc from my phone ( as well as the fancy thermostat)

 

[Nick67GT]

OK, I've managed to get the face off the back plate (2 small screws underneath with hardly any access room ) and this is what's behind:



There are corresponding pins on the rear of the control panel which insert between the contacts when the unit is pushed on.

I'm wandering if there's a loose pin causing a relay to make / break resulting in the clicking sound?

Any other theories?

By the way - is this a standard back plate.......

 

[brightspark]

that's a standard backplate. looks like earth then neutral then live feed which is looped to no 1 and the output is no 2 drayton will still do a compatible clock just to clip on

 

[earthman]

that's an oldie all the modern ones are on a standard backplate. looks to be just a single output time switch not a dual output programmer should be easy enough to replace and wire if you have half a clue

Not compared to the one in my previous house, that had a mechanical clock, you had little plastic clips that you had to push over the teeth on the wheel to set the on/off times. Lol

That did start making a funny noise before I moved, a bit of a clean and lube on the cogs fixed it though.

 

[hunter27]

https://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/sites/default/files/D70-9 - Compatibility Guide.pdf

 

[MoreWellie]

Should we start a book on whether the "compatible" replacement will cover that missing bit of tile

 

[hunter27]

Should we start a book on whether the "compatible" replacement will cover that missing bit of tile

Yes it will

 

[Nick67GT]

Should we start a book on whether the "compatible" replacement will cover that missing bit of tile

In my defence, I have to say I've had NOTHING to do with either the tiling or any other aspect of the installation.

I'm just the unfortunate individual tasked by son no.1 to try and fix it.......

 

[Nick67GT]

@hunter27 Thanks for the very useful Drayton compatibility guide.

I've noted the following on the top of page 3 of the guide:

MiTime and Lifestyle ‘LP’ models directly replace former ACL-Lifestyle ‘ILP/LP/LS’ and Drayton Tempus programmers, the only models requiring wiring modi cations are old Tempus 1/2 and LS112 (remove link L to 1 on the backplate). Drayton can accept no liability for wiring errors at the time of installation, for any reason.

Since the timer in question is a Tempus 1, can anyone identify which wire I need to remove, or is it the blindingly obvious link wire in my photograph?

 

[Nick67GT]

Sorted.

Behaving quietly and efficiently.



Nothing to salvage from the old one though, as far as I’m concerned....