Celly Vs. 2K For Paint Reactions

[Championship White]

I've been spraying celly for a few months now and am getting tired of all the paint reactions I've had to deal with, am I right in saying the 2 pack will not react with anything and that I can spray it without the worry that 2 seconds later I will be left with a paint reaction.

Is there any other method I am missing for reducing the chance of a reaction by dusting the first coat leaving for a few minutes and continuing with painting.

I've used almost as much barcoat as paint and I've been finding that the barcoat seems to 'split' in places causing paint 'splits' too.

 

[Engineer]

2K materials are professional use only, as to be safe from serious health problems you will need to use them in a proper spray booth, with correct air fed breathing equipment.

Cellulose materials will cause a wide range of problems relating to reactions, as well as sink back/shrinkage and degradation when exposed to UV over a period of time.

Best and most cost effective option for a good quality long lasting job, is for you to do all the preparation and masking, then take the job along to a pro sprayer, equipped to use 2K materials.

 

[steveo3002]

straight /solid colours in 2k will be less prone to reaction , solvent base coats have lots of thinners so will be similar to celly

are you still painting over hammerite(seem to recall you was at one point) if so it needs taking of

reasonbly preped bodywork shouldnt need barcoat , in 20 years of painting cars i can remember we used it once on some scruffy old beetle that we didnt want to strip

or , like ive suggested before spray it in rustoleum , that doesnt react to much at all assuming its prepped to a reasonble standard

 

[jaykay]

barcoat could be going on to heavy..remember,it's a sealer.just put one wet coat.
dont worry if its see thru.as long as it's wet and uniform.
it could well be prep could be better.

 

[Championship White]

Since it's a rally-car I'm not bothered about a perfect finish, but after today for example spraying a front bumper, one half of it is passable and on he other half the paint has lifted in places to created a strange vein-like pattern. Absolute PITA.

@Steveo3002: The car seems to be a patch-work of paint bodges sprayed with a variety of materials, I bought some Rustoleum and tried it out inside but it reacted as badly as the celly so I barcoated the whole thing instead.

If I could go back in time I think I'd buy a good respirator set-up and use 2K HB before sanding it and sending it off to be painted.

 

[steveo3002]

if everything you put on is reacting then its beyong barcoat , strip it back to metal or the orig paint and try again

 

[Championship White]

I have done on the exterior in bad areas but on the interior it's such an awkward shape that I will just have to be happy with a poor finish but better than what was there before.

 

[steveo3002]

did you try rustoleum with a brush on the inside?

 

[Engineer]

Use of cellulose materials often ends in a lot of hassle, especially so for beginners to paintwork. By far the most sensible option is to do all the prep work yourself, and pay a pro to do the job using 2K, which will probably cost less than half the cost of proper protective gear.

 

[etlcsns]

I won't go back to Celly now, 2k is way easier,

 

[Championship White]

Yeh I brushed it on, tested it straight and then tested it with a bit of thinners too and both reacted as did the celly.

I'm going to continue with celly until all paint is used up and then decide what to do, just a bit peeved I've gotten this far and didn't realise I might have made the wrong choice.

 

[steveo3002]

sounds likes lack of prep to be fair ...if enamel paint is making it fester ,there must be lots of bodged paint underneath it

knuckle down and sand it off

 

[the snooper]

seems very strange that you are having a problem with bar coat you are not by any chance thinning the barcoat down are you?

ive never had any problems using barcoat.
one good even coat wait 1 hour dont flat just prime straight on top and carry on as normal

 

[marc76]

am I right in saying the 2 pack will not react with anything and that I can spray it without the worry that 2 seconds later I will be left with a paint reaction.

If the surface is made of plastics material, I have grave doubts about even spraying another layer of the same paint!

 

[Chickenjohn]

If you have too many layers of paint on the car- or hammerite/ cheap synthetic paint, then any paint- 2K as well will react. Strip to bare metal, etch prime and go from there.

 

[danelectro]

Got to say I agree with steveo, prep is the key to it, you've really gotta spend the time on it. I know it's a pain, but it's well worth it.

sounds likes lack of prep to be fair ...if enamel paint is making it fester ,there must be lots of bodged paint underneath it

knuckle down and sand it off

 

[Championship White]

Cheers guys, I've decided to get a reasonable job done to it with celly, get it logbooked for motorsport and roadworthy and then spend time on individual panels one by one, stripping them back to metal and investing in an air-fed mask then leaving the top-coat to the professionals.