carpet fitting near future carpet gripper assuming a problem

[angellonewolf]

ok as ive done this in the same house before and some of the gripers have come loose this was some down to a powered wheelchair being used as it draged the carpet but also when i put the griper down they needed quite a bit of hammering to put them down and the amount of vibration with the hammering ment the first nail would go in but by the time you got to the end of the stripe the other end had come loose

i was chasing my tail for quite a while the floor is concrete with those tiles aprox a 1mm thin so as you hit them some come loose some cracked some it went throught fine when i go back i want the job jobed right with as little problem as possable

so im going to remove any loose strips and reattach them so im hoping just nailing will work but want to go bolt and braces so should i just glue the strips down (and do they do an hour dry resin for such)
glue and nail down?

dont realy want to drill and screw as there are pipes for heating under neath the concreat floor

any input wil be great full

 

[WorkshopChris]

When the carpet fitters did ours they went around fixing all the grippers down with a no nails type adhesive, by time they were ready to fit the carpet they were stuck firm.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

When the carpet fitters did ours they went around fixing all the grippers down with a no nails type adhesive, by time they were ready to fit the carpet they were stuck firm.

This.
Buy a few tubes of soudal fixall turbo
20 minuites grab.

 

[angellonewolf]

This.
Buy a few tubes of soudal fixall turbo
20 minuites grab.

where do they supply it ?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

where do they supply it ?

Amazon.
I usually buy from eurocell but been a while.

 

[brightspark]

whats stopping u using a metal detector I just drilled 6.omm holes every foot and wooden plugged them . then nailed them down

 

[mike os]

Glue them

 

[angellonewolf]

its one room but realy its 3 rooms open plan 11 meters x 4 meters a fair bit to drill and nail

 

[angellonewolf]

been looking about the glues and decided on sticks like sh*t turbo 15 mins cure time so should beable to start the griper do the underlay and then start laying the carpet right after

only reason for the choise as i cant get the soudal fixall turbo delivered before needing to do the job that was recomended and i can drive to screwfix in the morning and its seams to say its simlier stuff

 

[adamfitz]

I usually use gripfill or similar. Cut the gripper in to small sections rather than sticking the whole strip in one go

 

[DAPPH]

ok as ive done this in the same house before and some of the gripers have come loose this was some down to a powered wheelchair being used as it draged the carpet but also when i put the griper down they needed quite a bit of hammering to put them down and the amount of vibration with the hammering ment the first nail would go in but by the time you got to the end of the stripe the other end had come loose

I was chasing my tail for quite a while the floor is concrete with those tiles aprox a 1mm thin so as you hit them some come loose some cracked some it went throught fine when i go back i want the job jobed right with as little problem as possable

so im going to remove any loose strips and reattach them so im hoping just nailing will work but want to go bolt and braces so should i just glue the strips down (and do they do an hour dry resin for such)
glue and nail down?

dont realy want to drill and screw as there are pipes for heating under neath the concreat floor

any input wil be great full

t

All my carpet grips are bonded to the floors with a quick set two part epoxy out of a caulking gun & tube with a special curly mixer insert in the nozzle because the toppings were made from rubbish materials old cement etc & shattered every time a nail was tapped in even with a decent lump hammer . The special double sided sticky take wasn't much use either whereas the resin actually soaked in the screeds. ? .
lay out all your strips close to where they are going to be set as once you get started , you need to get a bit of a move on before the resin sets in the tip of th nozzle.

Before siting the grippers all the floor toping was vacuumed well, under the edge of skirting de fluffed with a ground up hook on an old knife & vacuumed out . Took all the door stop frame strips off and inserted planed smooth 16 mm mahogany the width of the door frames , putting a tiny chamfer on the outer top edges to allow my wheel chair & vacuum to get over this threshold without gouging out chunks of wood .. yu go off carpet that is a few mm above the wood . Set the thresholds in place by drilling a hidden hole in size place , using stainless steel wood screws and put cut wooden mahogany plugs in over the screws with a drop of pv wood glue . When set cut them flat with a pull saw .
Resin glue would do the same and perhaps better so long as the area is dedusted .

The reason for spending £ 130 on the seven doors thresholds is that I was going to be charged £30 per door for an anodised aluminium strip as the fitters said they wouldn't use the old carpet thresholds due to them being collapsed.
Turns out it is a very 1960's to 70's thing especially in timber framed houses where a ready made door frame & threshold was screwed in place . The carpet fitters loved them ….as it so easy to go straight across the door way. Vacuuming the carpets is good as the vacuum no longer gets caught on the alu strips like they often did before as you cleaned from room to room . We have same colour scheme & carpets throughout the bungalow as it make the place look a lot bigger than it is

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

t

All my carpet grips are bonded to the floors with a quick set two part epoxy out of a caulking gun & tube with a special curly mixer insert in the nozzle because the toppings were made from rubbish materials old cement etc & shattered every time a nail was tapped in even with a decent lump hammer . The special double sided sticky take wasn't much use either whereas the resin actually soaked in the screeds. ? .
lay out all your strips close to where they are going to be set as once you get started , you need to get a bit of a move on before the resin sets in the tip of th nozzle.

Before siting the grippers all the floor toping was vacuumed well, under the edge of skirting de fluffed with a ground up hook on an old knife & vacuumed out . Took all the door stop frame strips off and inserted planed smooth 16 mm mahogany the width of the door frames , putting a tiny chamfer on the outer top edges to allow my wheel chair & vacuum to get over this threshold without gouging out chunks of wood .. yu go off carpet that is a few mm above the wood . Set the thresholds in place by drilling a hidden hole in size place , using stainless steel wood screws and put cut wooden mahogany plugs in over the screws with a drop of pv wood glue . When set cut them flat with a pull saw .
Resin glue would do the same and perhaps better so long as the area is dedusted .

The reason for spending £ 130 on the seven doors thresholds is that I was going to be charged £30 per door for an anodised aluminium strip as the fitters said they wouldn't use the old carpet thresholds due to them being collapsed.
Turns out it is a very 1960's to 70's thing especially in timber framed houses where a ready made door frame & threshold was screwed in place . The carpet fitters loved them ….as it so easy to go straight across the door way. Vacuuming the carpets is good as the vacuum no longer gets caught on the alu strips like they often did before as you cleaned from room to room . We have same colour scheme & carpets throughout the bungalow as it make the place look a lot bigger than it is

Do like carpet pieces.
Seems thresholds have fallen out of favour.

Always make my own rebates threshold strips when I'm putting laminate/engineered floors down. Looks much better than the crappy foiled strips that seem to be pushed these days