Car diagnostic software purchase

[m_c]

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Non-genuine Delphi/AutoCom interfaces are pretty rubbish on anything other than the basics, especially on French stuff for some reason, as they use the cheapest electronics possible, so just don't have the needed processing power to connect reliably to some modules.
They're also noticeable slower in use, than a genuine interface, to the point live data is often useless, or just crashes if you select more than a few values.

 

[wacky7791]

Joined up to the Volvo forums and there is a fella sells them. You pay a bit more but he checks them all prior to sending out and he is a UK contact for any problems you may have.

Might be less than £100. Postage to Ireland probably pushed the price up a bit more than you guys over in England, Scotland, Wales.

I'm in Australia mate

 

[ukracer]

Non-genuine Delphi/AutoCom interfaces are pretty rubbish on anything other than the basics, especially on French stuff for some reason, as they use the cheapest electronics possible, so just don't have the needed processing power to connect reliably to some modules.
They're also noticeable slower in use, than a genuine interface, to the point live data is often useless, or just crashes if you select more than a few values.

How can I tell the difference?

 

[anto]

I'm in Australia mate

Lol might be a bit more then
Although I did read that he has sent a few down under so it is an option.

 

[wacky7791]

I did look at Launch products a while back, were hoping to find one that could do everything on an Isuzu D-Max and Fiat Panda, I gave up in the end,....that X431 may well do it, I wasn't looking at that higher of a price range. For the home/DIY mechanic, most of these systems are just out of our price range I feel.

what kind of stuff are you looking at doing on the dmax? i have a 10 yr old holden colorado which is a rebadged dmax with the isuzu 4jj1 engine, for fault codes the elm327 dongle and torque pro app works fine on it.

 

[earthman]

what kind of stuff are you looking at doing on the dmax? i have a 10 yr old holden colorado which is a rebadged dmax with the isuzu 4jj1 engine, for fault codes the elm327 dongle and torque pro app works fine on it.

I'm not sure if the ABS pump on these needs to be activated whilst replacing the brake fluid for example but that kind of thing.

I don't see much point in the really cheap dongle things, ones that just read codes, I guess it's an 'high level' scanner I'm after.

 

[wacky7791]

I'm not sure if the ABS pump on these needs to be activated whilst replacing the brake fluid for example but that kind of thing.

I don't see much point in the really cheap dongle things, ones that just read codes, I guess it's an 'high level' scanner I'm after.

I'll be interested in what you find that works on it, have heard tech 2 works on the holden version but not so sure on the isuzu original.

as for the dongles for a mere $5 they are invaluable to help find which sensor is having a silicone fit etc so whilst not up to the job of coding its certainly helped me out on a few cars to read/ clear codes and see if my EGR disabling mod was working by reading the inlet temp.

please let me know what you end up using.

 

[earthman]

Will do,...maybe you could help get the Haynes workshop manual to me? I am trying to get one here in the UK, no luck so far.

 

[ukracer]

I too would have expected Delphi DS150 (AutoCom) to do the above.

I sometimes with Delphi - don't do the ISS cluster and just read the label on the ABS pump and then find it manually - then connect to it.

Sometimes when I can't connect - I then get another diagnostic platform out - instead of just assuming I have a dead ABS pump. Double check - non coms...

Can't read the label mate...or get the damn plug of to give it a squirt with contact cleaner.

 

[ukracer]

Anyone know how to remove that weird connector. I went for a drive in it today and thought it had been fixed but sadly not. Went 15 miles without an issue stopping and starting back up twice. Then half a mile from desination BOOM the ABS light comes on again! On the way back it came on after every stop but not instantly sometimes a mile later , other times 5 miles...

 

[m_c]

How can I tell the difference?

Chances are. if you need to ask, it's not genuine.

The key clues if your system isn't genuine, are the genuine needs a little green security dongle in the computer for any software version after 2016 (this is why all the cheap versions only have up to 2016R3, anything later is dependant on having a valid dongle and license), and nearly all cheap interfaces have the same serial number.
Also if you put a genuine and a copy interface next to each other, you can tell the difference, as the copy just feels cheap.

It's not actually a Delphi developed system. I can't remember who the real manufacturer/developer is, but they tailor it for each customer. Things like the interfaces look physically different, but still contain the same hardware, and they package the software up with different tech info suppliers.

 

[m_c]

Anyone know how to remove that weird connector.

I'd say it looks like a Bosch ABS unit.
There will be a little locking tab, which holds the brown release lever down, which you'll need to push in so the brown lever will move.
There may also be a security locking tab for the little locking tab, which will need to be slid out before the locking tab will push in though. It'll usually be light grey, yellow or red.

As the brown lever moves up, it'll push two slides (may be joined a single U-shaped) downwards to release the locking latches at the same time as drawing the connector off.
However, given the age, the whole mechanism is likely to be jammed up with dirt/dust, so don't use too much pressure, as it'll likely just break the release lever. If you can see the slides, try and get a lever/screwdriver in to help lever them out as you move the brown lever. Also give the connector a bit shoogle as it starts to release to try and keep as much pressure of the lever as possible.

 

[premmington]

Chances are. if you need to ask, it's not genuine.

The key clues if your system isn't genuine, are the genuine needs a little green security dongle in the computer for any software version after 2016 (this is why all the cheap versions only have up to 2016R3, anything later is dependant on having a valid dongle and license), and nearly all cheap interfaces have the same serial number.
Also if you put a genuine and a copy interface next to each other, you can tell the difference, as the copy just feels cheap.

It's not actually a Delphi developed system. I can't remember who the real manufacturer/developer is, but they tailor it for each customer. Things like the interfaces look physically different, but still contain the same hardware, and they package the software up with different tech info suppliers.

It is AutoCom and it is what the AA use.

 

[Monkey Harris]

I've opted for a carista..

Works on a multitude of vehicles ,
And will be a good guide to more complicated systems,

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carista-Bluetooth-Adapter-Scanner-Technology/dp/B00YVHGTBM