I'm retired and want to start some projects, I've had a Hobart Handler 140 that I've used on my trailer for minor repairs and also a stick welder. My problem is I've tried a few different helmets but can't seem to find any that are dark enough to see the weld puddle. With the helmet set on the darkest setting it's still so bright I can't see what I'm doing. Sometimes I miss the joint altogether or it's sporadic and looks horrible. I also get arc eye after welding which lasts for about 30 minutes, no pain just a bright light. I don't dare weld anything on my trailer that holds weight that needs a proper weld, only fixing handles or wire mesh. I've tried brighter and darker back lighting to no avail. The only thing that even comes remotely close to seeing the weld is when I wear a pair of dark sunglasses under my helmet but I know this is not the proper way to weld and it doesn't work that well anyway. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
- Thread starter mpd2434
- Start date
jo1010
Member
- Messages
- 437
- Location
- West Berkshire, uk
If you've tried different hoods/helmets with the same result I'd suggest getting your eyes checked over initially by an optician/opthalmologist. its not unusual as we age to go long sighted and need correction lenses for close up work.......if you already have glasses they may not be suitable - I've heard of people with 'transition' lenses not being able to see when welding for example
BrokenBiker
Member
- Messages
- 12,403
- Location
- Newport, South Wales
Eye test is number 1 on the list.
With regards to the helmets, what type are they? Auto dark or fixed shade? What shade are you using?
Personally I prefer to mig and stick weld on shade 10, and tig weld on shade 9, gasless on 10/11 but everyone is different.
I wear glasses all the time and if I take them off for any reason I can't make out the weld puddle it's just a blurry glowing mess
With regards to the helmets, what type are they? Auto dark or fixed shade? What shade are you using?
Personally I prefer to mig and stick weld on shade 10, and tig weld on shade 9, gasless on 10/11 but everyone is different.
I wear glasses all the time and if I take them off for any reason I can't make out the weld puddle it's just a blurry glowing mess
Are you sure you mean dark enough? It sounds to me like the auto darkening might not be working.
Having old eyes doesn’t help. I have this issue so I have reading glasses inside the helmet. I also glued a LED torch to the outside of the helmet to light the work area.
Is there a welding shop you can go to for advice? Maybe try out a known good set up so you know what “good” looks like.
Having old eyes doesn’t help. I have this issue so I have reading glasses inside the helmet. I also glued a LED torch to the outside of the helmet to light the work area.
Is there a welding shop you can go to for advice? Maybe try out a known good set up so you know what “good” looks like.
Morris
Member
- Messages
- 2,057
- Location
- Northamptonshire.
Eye test first. Then check if the auto darkening is working (doesn't sound like you have a non auto jobby). On max it should allow to be 3 miles away from the sun and not see it (I may be exaggerating a tad). Has it been packed away for some time? The battery may have failed.
quick test ,,,, hold a jam jar , or the likes at the distance your welding at , prob about 18 inches , in the kitchen in good light ,,, and see if you can read the ingredients ,,,
if you can you should be able to weld ok ,,, or with the addition of a simple cheater lens ,,, if you cant ,, then its off to the opticians , but explain to the optom that you want a pair of glasses for a specific task , and they will work on that , not just sell you a general use pair of glasses .
if you can you should be able to weld ok ,,, or with the addition of a simple cheater lens ,,, if you cant ,, then its off to the opticians , but explain to the optom that you want a pair of glasses for a specific task , and they will work on that , not just sell you a general use pair of glasses .
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 13,003
- Location
- NE London - UK
I don't think that it's arceye that you're suffering, just retinal bleaching, which is an overload of the cells. Long term it's still not good for tou.
sounds like a trip to the opticians is needed ,,,, take your masks with you ,, check they are working ok ,,, sounds a bit odd ,,, or turn one of your masks on and look at a flourescent light tube or an led torch and see if you can see them trigger ... ie darken and lighten
sort of like the post above ??
maybe be worth testing it ,,, ??
I test my mask before using it every time just in case. Initially I struggled to see what what I was doing, but setting at shade 10 for mig, and lots of practice now I can see everything I need to and never suffer any after effects to my vision.
Now, if I can learn to make a decent weld I'll be laughing.
Now, if I can learn to make a decent weld I'll be laughing.
you will find helmets default to safe ,,, ie dark when not activated , and activate to the light shade ,,, this avoids that .
basically helmets work the opposite way to how folk imagine .
but its always worth getting to know your kit before you start using it , its amazing how many screen protectors get left in place , or battery saver tabs dont get removed .
BrokenBiker
Member
- Messages
- 12,403
- Location
- Newport, South Wales
You could use your wise and amazing knowledge in person...you are both American...find out where the OP is and go help a brother out...
Maybe take a speedglass with you for him to try...you know, rule the mask out
All of my auto-darkening helmets remain at their lightest shade until activated. They do provide some level of protection in the light state, especially from ultraviolet light.
but what shade are they when they are turned off
helmets are always safe from uv and ir. even if batteries are dead.
but the bright light can damage eyes (over time) if the lens is stuck on the resting shade. welding on shade 3 isnt good. again , know and understan how the equipment works. rule #1
