Bush too lose in the control arm.

[RaceDiagnostics]

I just pulled out the poly bushes from my control arms today and started to refit OEM type metalastic ones.

Arms with the polybush set up.

New metalastic bushes.

I had to clean out a lot of rust out of the arms once the poly bushes were out.

Fitting the rear bush went as expected, it was tight.

But they went in just fine.

The problem was with the front ones, they can easily be slipped in by hand, and easily fall back out again.

I think that cleaning out the rust has oversized the arm.

Any suggestions, I was thinking about tacking welding the bush in place?

 

[brightspark]

Loctite them in. at that size they won't go anywhere. if its that bad put some shim stock in as well. Loctite needs bit of a gap to go off . it takes a fair bit of heat if you need to remove them after it cures

 

[Richard.]

As above a strong loctite suited for bearing fitting will secure that. I’ve moved onto the Granville products for such things. Once it’s set it doesn’t budge.

 

[Pete.]

As above, loctite. Normal stuff needs a 2 thou gap so the hole can be 4 thou bigger, which is a rattling fit (new term invented there). You can get stuff that will accommodate larger gaps.

 

[Hitch]

I'd be inclined to put something like a loctite 680, high viscosity stuff, on it, and perhaps peen the edge over very slightly after fitting, just to hold it in place without relying on the loctite during assembly.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Thanks all, Loctite 638 looks like it will do the job.

 

[8ob]

I would knurl the outside of the bush and press it in with loctite, the knurl will increase the diameter of the bush and give the loctite something to hang onto.

Bob

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I'd be inclined to put something like a loctite 680, high viscosity stuff, on it, and perhaps peen the edge over very slightly after fitting, just to hold it in place without relying on the loctite during assembly.

That one looks good too.

 

[doubleboost]

Glue them in with bearing fit
The last place i worked at had a set of internal hand knurls
They were great for recovering bearing housings

 

[PhillipM]

As everyone else says, bearing fit.

I suspect the old poly bushes were seizing up and spinning in the arms looking at that, which lets moisture in then they pit and rust very quickly with the heat generated.

 

[Hitch]

I would knurl the outside of the bush and press it in with loctite, the knurl will increase the diameter of the bush and give the loctite something to hang onto.

Bob

In the abscence of the proper tool, a few lines of centre punch marks often does the trick too.

 

[Brad93]

Do you have a vernier calliper or a bore gauge?

Check the size difference. There are many types of retaining Loctite products all suited to different fit levels.

I’ll post a picture later for you of the chart.

 

[jimi_boom]

another product type is Bondloc, cheaper than Loctite I have just switched over our company to Bondloc products purely down to price because of the amount of Loctite we go through.

 

[Melvyn Best]

I was shown how to use a dot punch to raise a small series of burrs in a wheel hub that had a loose bearing fit 50 years ago way before Loctite was freely available. Citroen 2 CV kingpin housings wear causing excessive play , the cure I’m told is to run a bead of weld around the outside causing shrinkage although I’ve never tried it myself.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

The bush measured in at 46mm and the arm at ~46.4mm, ordered up some 680 last night.

 

[Brad93]

The bush measured in at 46mm and the arm at ~46.4mm, ordered up some 680 last night.

680 is good for a 0.38mm gap so you might be okay.

660 would have been a better choice.

 

[Burdekin]

Centre punch the holes.

 

[Brad93]

680 doesn’t appear in this catalogue unfortunately but does on this datasheet.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Thanks all, job done, belt and braces. Chiseled the arm, scored the bush and glued in with 680.