Burnerd Chuck Jaws

[RWD3M]

Hi all,

I posted recently about my 3 Jaw chuck being a bit wonky on the jaw front and I'm finally getting round to doing something about it.

However, I do have a couple of questions that I'm hoping somone can help me out with.

I have identified the chuck I have as being a Burnerd, however, how do I identify what size it is? Is it simply the overall diameter of the chuck body or is it some complicated measurement somewhere else.
Oh and are there metric and imperial versions (not sure what I have)?

Secondly, looking at new jaws (they seem to be quite readily available) what is the difference between soft and hard jaws? I'm guessing it doesn't mean that one set are made from metal and the other from cheese!

Cheers,

 

[Hopefuldave]

Overall diameter of the body, check the thread on any bits that you can for metric/imperial but the diameters are usually whole numbers of inches Vs whole tens of mm.
Hard jaws come in inside and outside flavours OR 2-piece where there's a "fixed" bit for the chuck scroll onto which the jaw tops can bolt as either inside or outside depending on what you need to grip. They're 'kin hard, too, carbide or grinder if you need to do anything to 'em!

Soft jaws are ones you can machine for specific jobs, like if you need to hold a thin-wall tube precisely in a 3-jaw - the jaws are bored out to the right diameter to fit without distorting the work.

Best of both, 2-piece jaws that you can make your own softjaw tops for?

Price of genuine Burnerd jaws, have you considered buying a half-decent 4-jaw instead? The eastern European ones (Bison, TOS etc.) are pretty good, the Fuerda far-eastern are pretty good for the money...

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[RWD3M]

Overall diameter of the body, check the thread on any bits that you can for metric/imperial but the diameters are usually whole numbers of inches Vs whole tens of mm.
Hard jaws come in inside and outside flavours OR 2-piece where there's a "fixed" bit for the chuck scroll onto which the jaw tops can bolt as either inside or outside depending on what you need to grip. They're 'kin hard, too, carbide or grinder if you need to do anything to 'em!

Soft jaws are ones you can machine for specific jobs, like if you need to hold a thin-wall tube precisely in a 3-jaw - the jaws are bored out to the right diameter to fit without distorting the work.

Best of both, 2-piece jaws that you can make your own softjaw tops for?

Price of genuine Burnerd jaws, have you considered buying a half-decent 4-jaw instead? The eastern European ones (Bison, TOS etc.) are pretty good, the Fuerda far-eastern are pretty good for the money...

Dave H. (the other one)

Hi Dave,

Thanks, this is very helpful.

I've just removed the 3 bolts that hold the backplate onto the chuck and they are definitely BSF. So, It would appear that I have a 5" imperial chuck:



I've removed the jaws:



Thanks for the definitions of hard/soft jaws. I think all I'll need will be hard jaws.

I had thought of replacing the chuck as you suggested but I had difficulty identifying what one I would need. I do have a 4 Jaw, which I actually quite like, but would like a 3 jaw for it's simplicity.

So I guess I just need to decide whether I get replacement jaws or try to work out which new one to get. I am quite new to all this so don't find it quite as straight forward as most people here I think the main problem is getting one that fits my backplate or getting one with a backplate that fits my L5! I'm not sure how all this works.

Really appreciate your help though.

Cheers,

 

[Agroshield]

http://www.rotagriponline.com/datasheets/Pratt/PrattChuckNumbers.pdf

http://www.rotagriponline.com/datasheets/Pratt/PrattChuckSpares.pdf

 

[RWD3M]

http://www.rotagriponline.com/datasheets/Pratt/PrattChuckNumbers.pdf

http://www.rotagriponline.com/datasheets/Pratt/PrattChuckSpares.pdf

Thanks!

 

[RWD3M]

Blimey, just priced up a set of jaws, that was a shock!

So, how do I go about making sense of chucks, backplates, PCD's, recesses, threads? I'm guessing a backplate for a Boxford won't necessarily fit a Harrison!

Help!

 

[brightspark]

see if u can get a catchplate or faceplate cheap that fits the lathe if u cant get a backplate and fit chuck to that

 

[Hopefuldave]

You appear to have a D1-x camlock spindle (square sockets that turn 90 degrees or so to lock/unlock)?, if so measure the pin diameter and the short taper that goes into the back of the chuck and visit http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page12.html to check which size - let me now which as I *may* have a backplate... Or you could put it on the backplate you just freed up? Quite an easy job fitting one to the other, measure the register recess in the back of new chuck, turn the sticky-out register boss on the backplate to fit, drill and counterbore to match the threads in the back of the new chuck...

A Helpful Hint - make some transfer screws for the threads in the chuck: a few high-tensile capscrews withthe heads turned off, turn/grind* a point on the end then file/grind a couple of flats ont he pointy end you can grap with needle-nose pliers to screw them in, leaving just the very tip of the poiint protruding, fit chuck to backplate so it's registered and whap with a big mallet, Hey Presto! the points will punch mark where you need to drill...

Dave H. (the other one)

* in the chuck of your favourite drill, spin against the bench grinder, good enough for government work...

 

[Seadog]

http://www.rotagriponline.com/datasheets/Pratt/PrattChuckNumbers.pdf

http://www.rotagriponline.com/datasheets/Pratt/PrattChuckSpares.pdf

That's really useful. I've several sets of jaws that are from unknown chucks. Maybe I'll strike lucky

 

[Seadog]

I'm guessing a backplate for a Boxford won't necessarily fit a Harrison!

No way José

 

[Pete.]

That's really useful. I've several sets of jaws that are from unknown chucks. Maybe I'll strike lucky

Now then, I also have several sets of jaws from unknown chucks, and some that I need.

I think it's time to start a swap-shop register.

 

[Brad93]

Have you got a threaded nose on your Harrison or a L00 taper

 

[Brad93]

TOS not as good as Bison from what I’ve heard

 

[Pete.]

I've got a 200mm TOS chcuk and I really like it. Cast iron body but hardened steel jaw guides. 3000RPM top speed too.

 

[Brad93]

I've got a 200mm TOS chcuk and I really like it. Cast iron body but hardened steel jaw guides. 3000RPM top speed too.

Is it a new one?

the old TOS stuff obviously very good, the stuff now badged TOS I’m not so sure

 

[Pete.]

No it's an older model. It was like new when I got it with just storage/handling marks - still is in fact - but missing the outside jaws. I waited about a year for some new jaws on eBay (instead of paying £100) and now it's my every-day chuck.

 

[Brad93]

No it's an older model. It was like new when I got it with just storage/handling marks - still is in fact - but missing the outside jaws. I waited about a year for some new jaws on eBay (instead of paying £100) and now it's my every-day chuck.

Yes an older chuck likely too be very good like their lathes.

 

[Hopefuldave]

Now then, I also have several sets of jaws from unknown chucks, and some that I need.

I think it's time to start a swap-shop register.

Yep, I have a few sets of unknown chuck jaws that don't fit anything I've got! Mostly small far-eastern at a guess.


Dave H. (the other one)

 

[brightspark]

No it's an older model. It was like new when I got it with just storage/handling marks - still is in fact - but missing the outside jaws. I waited about a year for some new jaws on eBay (instead of paying £100) and now it's my every-day chuck.

I have a 3 jaw tos chuck on my Harrison its very good quality and fairly accurate and that's as 3 jaw cucks can be

 

[RWD3M]

You appear to have a D1-x camlock spindle (square sockets that turn 90 degrees or so to lock/unlock)?, if so measure the pin diameter and the short taper that goes into the back of the chuck and visit http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page12.html to check which size - let me now which as I *may* have a backplate... Or you could put it on the backplate you just freed up? Quite an easy job fitting one to the other, measure the register recess in the back of new chuck, turn the sticky-out register boss on the backplate to fit, drill and counterbore to match the threads in the back of the new chuck...

A Helpful Hint - make some transfer screws for the threads in the chuck: a few high-tensile capscrews withthe heads turned off, turn/grind* a point on the end then file/grind a couple of flats ont he pointy end you can grap with needle-nose pliers to screw them in, leaving just the very tip of the poiint protruding, fit chuck to backplate so it's registered and whap with a big mallet, Hey Presto! the points will punch mark where you need to drill...

Dave H. (the other one)

* in the chuck of your favourite drill, spin against the bench grinder, good enough for government work...

Hi Dave,

I totally get the second bit.

Not sure about the first bit though.

The back plate I have:




...apart from being manky (I will be cleaning it!) was held on to chuck with 3 x 1/4 BSF bolts and was just spun onto the Lathe Spindle by a great big thread. So I don't know what you mean about D1-x Camloc.... (sorry).