anybody know where i can buy the material to reline my brake shoes? in this case its for the transmision brake band on my 1926 humber project, i know i could send them off but fancy having a go...
Some of the better (larger) Motor Factor do a relining service for commercial brake shoes - they may be able to help you.
I bought some a few years ago to reline some trailer brakes, but I've never bought brake band type stuff before. Maybe something you'd get from a company that services electrical machinery, like at a paper mill?
Dont know where to get the material but I do have a book printed in the 1930's that shows how they used to reline breaks. I have two books that were intended for a garage owner showing machine, engines of many cars, fuel, suspension and panel work
If you do manage to do the job would you post some pictures.
It seems back them everything was repaired and very little thrown away.
I used to carry out this sort of job in the 1960s I worked for a Mintex agent. We used to clamp the material to the band and drill a suitable sized hole using the rivet hole as a guide. We had countersink bits to sink the hole down to the right depth. I think I still have a couple of the bits in my toolbox.
Of course in those days the material was asbestos based. I must be full of the dust.
Try a search for Mintex or Ferodo. We used to do a lot of work for the trade.
I am sure a modern replacement material must be available.
work sent some away for a tank the other month and they came bike like new for £50 a shoe. hardly worth mucking around for that and you know that they will work! the alternitive was to get news ones MADE! in Poland at £600 ish per shoe! the firm we used was K&S Mecansies in Carlisle
Interesting topic! Does anyone know what bonding agent is used on brake shoes? I have an old winch that needs the brake band replaced (which I have) just need the glue
When I was in Ghana I needed new front pads on my Tenere.
I was sent to a local 'engineer'.
He sent a small boy off with the pads, a few hours later he came back with them fitted with new braking surface, and spent the afternoon rubbing them on brick to get the material thin enough.
I asked what they were stuck on with. He showed me a tin of Evostick and wandered off laughing like a maniac.
I took it easy for a couple of days on the brakes but they were fine.
I was expecting to see the pad material shooting out in front of the bike.
Experiences like that are worth their weight i gold.
What do they stick them together?
I used to work as a fitter for Ferodo and there was a load of evo stick products about, which included large amounts of phenolic resin. Shoes used to come in to be re lined often, they were bonded on the same way as you would bond anything with a contact adhesive, paint it on, let it dry and stick together and put a band around and squeeze together with the aid of a clamp, cant quite remember if they were baked after or not though, I think they were. http://www.silmid.com/Products/Adhe...Araldite-Structural-Adhesives/RE641001KG.aspx
anybody know where i can buy the material to reline my brake shoes? in this case its for the transmision brake band on my 1926 humber project, i know i could send them off but fancy having a go...
When relining using rivets you'll need the correct river snap to form the rivet flare and an anvil that you sit the rivit head on , work from the centre of the shoe to the outside and if at all possible get someone to hold the shoe over the anvil which should be in a vice .
I often made a snap by grinding a long high tensile bolt with a tungsten cutter almost through then snapping it to give a small raised shoulder to fit in the hollow rivet body then cleaned it up .
The anvil was a similar bolt that just fitted the rivet head hole in the lining cut the head off it & grind dead square .
Or
Better still use a decent light fly press or long arm pull down riveting head to flare the rivets.
Don't resort to using a ball peine hammer to blatt the the flares over .. you can rarely get a sufficient even tension so the shoe tends to try and move and squeal and there is also a tendency to batter them too much leaving the flare much weaker than it should be.
There should not be any light seen under a correctly riveted shoe lining & the actual shoe .
Don't for get to make small leading and trailing edge champhers on the shoes after the lining exercise is complete as these help keep the shoe & drum clean and help in the release of the shoe off the drum when the pedal is released.