Brake back plate

[wyn]

The back plate on one side of my D3 rear brakes was pretty shot with rust.
I changed the other a couple of years ago and it was a pain having to destroy the wheel bearing to get it apart.

I'd seen split back plates for sale in the USA so cut this one in 2 bits and welded it back together when in position.

It all went pretty good until disaster struck at the end............... In wrestling the handbrake shoes back on i must have dislodged the cable.

Got it back together, tried the handbrake and it jammed. So that's tomorrows job.....turn the motor back and relatch the cable.

 

[Guineafowl]

You’re more diligent than me - when my backplates start to fall off, I just pull them off and leave things as they are.

 

[premmington]

You’re more diligent than me - when my backplates start to fall off, I just pull them off and leave things as they are.

I reckon I've removed more old ones than I have fitted new ones.

I also have tacked big penny washers to them as well - to stop the noise.

 

[Ubique]

L319 back plates are also the mounting for the park brake shoes...
@wyn Have you pulled the release cable under the access plate adjacent to the park brake switch?

 

[wyn]

L319 back plates are also the mounting for the park brake shoes...
@wyn Have you pulled the release cable under the access plate adjacent to the park brake switch?

No, i think there was enough slack on the cable for the EPB to use it's full travel and jam up.

I used the release a couple of years ago when it jammed.
I was then able to open up and turn the EPB back to reconnect the mechanism.....I think it was about 2 hours last time to sort it on a ramp.

 

[Ubique]

You probably know this....
Remove spare wheel, disconnect electrically & unbolt mechanism from support bracket, rotate unit 180deg., remove cover.
unscrew OS (I think!) cable retainer from casing, note routing of release bowden cable, & remove cable from casing, remove latch/force sensor after unplugging it from the PCB. Unscrew motor & clutch assy from casing.
Pull threaded bar outwards enough to get a 14mm(?) spanner on the square block, it usually releases with a good tap from a deadblow or copper hammer, if not, grip the end of the threaded bar at the bowden cable end with another spanner and go again.

 

[frank horton]

modern crap then.......
how can something so simple get so complicated....?

 

[Ubique]

To be fair, they only fail to 'self unjam' if the clutch is worn due to lack of periodic adjustment (it's on the annual service schedule) and / or cleaning & adjustment after extended periods of wading (it's in the handbook), or as in this case, the park brake cables are not secured to the shoes correctly.

 

[minimutly]

L319 back plates are also the mounting for the park brake shoes...
@wyn Have you pulled the release cable under the access plate adjacent to the park brake switch?

Like my mgzt, wonder if they were bmw or LR parts bin? The fronts were BMW

 

[Kayos]

I replaced them all on my D2, that was used off road. The many warning of stuck stones didn't happen. I had drilled and grooved discs as well, no problems with them either

 

[wyn]

Managed to unjam it without removing it.
Got the cover off,, turned the brass bit all the way back with a screwdriver, connected the cable back to the shoes.

All good again for a bit.

 

[Ubique]

Like my mgzt, wonder if they were bmw or LR parts bin? The fronts were BMW

Jag parts originally, the actuator is a French OEM - I forget which one.