Bosch chainsaw £8 (that's not a typo)

[madkayaker]

OK I understand the metal working capability of this might not be great but seams like a steel.

http://www.toolstation.com/messages.html?code=57755&mainWin=1

 

[malcolm]

We've got a cheapy electric chainsaw but don't use it - it's faster cutting by hand with a blunt old handsaw. Though ours was a lot more than £8 so that's a bargain.

 

[TAITSIE]

Its only £8 but thats just a chain not a complete machine.
Bosch AKE35-18S Electric Chainsaw Chain

 

[Justme]

We've got a cheapy electric chainsaw but don't use it - it's faster cutting by hand with a blunt old handsaw. Though ours was a lot more than £8 so that's a bargain.

Try sharpening the chain

Needs doing evey 30 mins of cutting or so

 

[malcolm]

I think we gave up on ours long before 30 minutes of cutting.

 

[Damaged]

I started out with an electric saw, for me it was a waste of time.

Guess it depends what you are going to use it for...

My next saw was a B&Q petrol P.O.S. that lasted about three weeks ( to be fair I was using it far beyond it's duty cycle)

I now have 2 "proper" saws, a Stihl and a Husqavana, it's like comparing a SIP with a Portamig or Butters welder.

HTH's, Mick.

 

[Welderpaul]

POS?
Pile of ****e?

 

[Archie]

Aye, Paul. Not to put too finer point on it!

Agree with you, Mick. Stihl's are incomparable to others. My dad could almost be described as a collector!

 

[Damaged]

POS?
Pile of ****e?

Yes Sir, thought pile of ****e would have been filtered!

 

[Hitch]

I had a big old 20" homelite, would cut anything infront of it, none of this safety brake rubish either
Never easy to start from cold though

 

[TurboShed]

My dad's Stihl is nearly new (a few years old but seen little service), but runs terribly, seems impossible to give it a petrol mix it's happy with. It starts okay but if you give it some it starts to misfire and lose power. Having it "serviced" by a shop makes it run better for all of about 10 minutes. Is there anything obvious we could check?

He also has a stone-age Husqvarna, it's reliable but SO heavy it's unpleasant to use.

 

[Damaged]

How old is the petrol mix you are using?

Reason I ask is my Stihl dosen't seem to like petrol thats been lying around for more than a couple of weeks.

 

[TurboShed]

Cheers I hadn't thought about the petrol being old. In the past I've tried 1/25 or 1/50 not being sure which is right, I think it's more likely to be the 1/50 for a newish model isn't it? But no I hadn't factored old petrol into the equation so I'll check that out next time I'm down my Dad's.

 

[snowcat]

Ok chaps, just to post this in, chainsaws are probably one of the most lethal hand tools you could ever use, one reason is because the chain once it grabs causes a severed cut, not clean, and does it in seconds, they can also kick back throw chain all sorts... a guy I went to collage with spent his sandwich year have bits of his **** stuck onto his leg after a mishap.....

Why the DIY market has escaped the legislation that means anyone caught using them without a ticket for business use, gets a hefty fine is a mystery.....

A Friend of mine who subs to the forestry commission likened using saws without any PPE like welding in pants...... legs apparently are the most venerable and without the Kevlar trousers a the most experienced of operators are only a quick log slip from losing a limb, no exaction apparantly......

Just worth a thought before you pick up a saw......

 

[Archie]

My dad nicked his kneecap once. He was bloody lucky it was a glancing blow; nothing a few stitches couldn't put right. To echo what Snowy said, Kevlar trousers, ear defenders and the proper boots are essential kit. Gloves, hat and visor optional in my book though goggles or something are pretty helpful. Mind you, all of these are secondary to good practice. Both feet on the ground etc, etc. I'm not normally too keen on excessive safety but when it comes to these things I go the whole hog! It's also good to make sure the chain is sharp. A blunt blade is far more likely to skip and you end up putting more pressure on to make a cut.

Anyway, not sure why yours wouldn't be going well, though some of the older ones can be a pain to start.

 

[knoba]

This guy seems to know his business. Defo worth a call if your having problems. Sells good gear (recommended)!

 

[rusty69bus]

one in the paper recently ' man cut off own arm'

 

[Damaged]

one in the paper recently ' man cut off own arm'

Yeah I read that.

There was an accident in Accrington a few years ago, guy cut is own head off cutting a fencing post to length after he'd concreted it in...

Been using chainsaws for years and I never take chances with PPE even if I'm only making one cut, Kevlar pants, Kevlar lined boots, gloves, hat and visor.

Been asked to lend saws a few times , always refuse but offer to do the work for them.

 

[MrFluffy]

TurboShed sounds like the crank seals are on the way out, they do that and are also a buggger to start as they use the crankcase for primary compression. Once you can get one going with shot seals itll usually stay running if the mixtures a bit rich. Could always stick a compression gauge on it and see what psi readings you get out. Therell be a tolerance somewhere for stihl.
I have to cut some fence posts to size with my poclain countervibe this week, might be a bit more carefull now

 

[shenion]

My dad's Stihl is nearly new (a few years old but seen little service), but runs terribly, seems impossible to give it a petrol mix it's happy with. It starts okay but if you give it some it starts to misfire and lose power. Having it "serviced" by a shop makes it run better for all of about 10 minutes. Is there anything obvious we could check?

He also has a stone-age Husqvarna, it's reliable but SO heavy it's unpleasant to use.

Sounds rich.

Also, are you using regular oil? Try using synthetic, I find some work far better. It will also start much easier when left sitting (no carbon deposits on plug.) The Poulan oil will destroy the bearings (have replaced a few from this.)

Best oil is sythentic oil from a motorcycle shop. I run 40:1 synthetic, no smoke, starts right up and more power. My Mculloch I gave away after it was 16 years old; still ran like new.

I have yet to see a saw that was not set up too rick from the factory. That is safe as too lean will burn it up.

I set mine by setting full throttle with no load. Adjust mixture screw (one marked H, L is for idle) until it just barely starts 4-cycleing (pitch cuts in half.) It should run normal with an occasional drop to 4-cycle.

Then under load it should then run fine.

Have worked on a lot of these engines. You get to know the correct sound. Have converted several to R/C aircraft. Currently running a 50CC Poulan Pro engine on a 1/4 scale Christen Eagle.