Biodiesel proof wide bore tube / hose for car fuel filler?

[julianf]

I have the remains of one of these -

I can't remember, off the top of my head, what the bore is, but I can check. I don't think it's the same at the top and bottom.

The part gets eaten by biodiesel, and is a pain to change. Unlike a normal design, the pipe connects to the side, rather than the top of the tank, so it's constantly immersed.

I'm wondering about welding up an elbow out of steel pipe , which could be unequal, to change the bore, and then using sleeves to mate up to the steel boss on the tank and filler.

But I need somthing bio proof.

Silicone seems to weep, but does not actually fall apart, so that might be an option if I push the steel tubes up close enough to one another. Viton or some sort of pu lined hose would be ideal, but the bore is (about) 100 mm or so.

Any other ideas?

 

[julianf]

Here is another picture just for background -

 

[frank horton]

a tough 1 that, similar probs here and they use 10% in the fuel now......eats everything, even nylon pipe goes brittle.......
think u got the right idea with the steel elbow......
had to have a new tank for me antique pick-up......ended up getting it made from stainless......just a short hose between the elbow and the for filler cap.......

I guess there are others but all my fuel lines I stock are "Gates" high press and shxt proof ( I buy it by the roll all dif sizes).....not cheap but never had a prob yet.........
BUT every connection wether it b gravity or press get a stainless special fuel hose clip......cos the hose can creep.....
just about everything that comes in, tractors mowers etc suffer with bad fuel hose.......
I find that the inner layer gets hard and delaminates......sometimes the old fuel hose can be snapped like a stick....!!!!!!!!!

 

[waddycall]

How about a marine fuel hose like -

https://aquafax.co.uk/product/1-57829-iso-7840-a2-fuel-hose-51mmid-x-30m

 

[julianf]

Thank you.

The hose in the link has the steel wire, but its still nitrile, which seems to dissolve quickly in biofuel.

I think that would be less preferable to using silicone couplers between the steel sections - i know that silicone weeps (goes slimy on the outside) but it never seems to actually fall apart.

This site -

https://www.oilybits.com/hose-couplings-reels.html

has some information to be inferred.

The B30 list does contain NBR products, but the B100 list has none at all.

Indeed, whilst i thought they only sold up to 1" dia, which they do, ive spotted on one of their datasheets that a company in Bristol does wider bore stuff, so i should probably call them direct!

 

[octo0072000]

remember with the 110 tank is mounted to chassis filler pipe to body so rubber filler is also to stop vibrations make it to stiff and it will crack the tank

 

[julianf]

This is for the 101, but same idea.

The issue is really that the filler comes in at the side, so is always full of fuel, rather than when its at the top, where its only in contact with the fuel when you're filling.

Im thinking that my plan is to make a small L section that couples with the tank, and adjusts the bore between the filler and the tank (which is normally done with the tube) and then sleeve that onto the tank, so its pretty much a metal to metal joint, just held with a strip of pipe. Then have some more flexible hose up to the filler that can then be straight through, with no need to change the bore size.

Because mine is the ambi, its a conversion to start with, so, from factory, they got the stock filler tube, cut it in the middle, and put in a bit of steel tube as an extension. What i mean is, its a bit of a bodge to start with anyhow.

 

[8ob]

I think its 101 ish, I had the same issue on mine so I cut/re used the reducer on the filler hose to a steel tube with a tight radius bend at the tank, just used one short straight fuel proof joining hose. The reducer at the top does not spend its life submerged in fuel like the lower section.

Bob

Edit: need to type faster

 

[julianf]

Ill go and have another look at mine. From yesterday's looking, it seemed like the damage was to the outer radius of the bend. If the top section is all good, then that would pretty much prove that it was only the lower that needed worrying about - as you say.

 

[colnerov]

Hi If you're going to make a steel elbow for the lower part, could you weld it to the tank tube (subject to cleaning the tank)? That way there won't be a hose on the lower part and the reducer section will be above the fuel line.

Colin

 

[500e]

Try here @julianf
https://www.arpcoltd.co.uk/

 

[julianf]

Hi If you're going to make a steel elbow for the lower part, could you weld it to the tank tube (subject to cleaning the tank)? That way there won't be a hose on the lower part and the reducer section will be above the fuel line.

Colin

Sadly, no. The filler tube connects through the tank support. Weld it up and the tanks never coming out again.

 

[julianf]

Just stopped by the 101 after walking the hounds, but did not have the keys on me, so only shots of the bottom of the filler -

As you can see, it does not look too healthy.

Small "pile" of gunk on the floor beneath it also.

The tube is a pig to replace. It does not look crazy, but I assure you many swear words.

 

[Farside]

Viton is the only thing I found that laughs at biodiesel. If you only need short sections of 100mm bore the price might not leave you gasping too much.

 

[julianf]

What I did / have done / am doing is throwing 50 quid at a new filler hose (nitrile) which will push the problem down the road a year or so.

I mean it won't last, but it won't die instantly. I know it's not the best solution, but it's certainly the most instant.