Best primer that doesnt come from a spray gun

[Matt S]

Hi everyone,

I'm going to be doing some panel repairs on my car soon and will be welding in replacement panels/sections. I do not have a compressor or spray gun, or the facilities to spray in, so my plan is to do the welding, grinding etc and get the metalwork done, then put some sort of primer on to protect from rust before handing it over to a bodyshop to do the spraying.

What is the best product to use here? A rattle can etch primer, brushed on epoxymastic 121, etc etc... Bearing in mind I have a few areas to do so it may be left in this condition for a number of weeks/months.

Any help would be appreciated. This will be on a visible area of the car (inner wings mainly) and I want the end product to look like it just left the factory, so I dont want to plaster it, but at the same time I dont really want to put anything temporary on which will all have to be removed prior to top coat.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

 

[nodeward]

i would try and get it done as quick as possible and sprayed up as (and i might be wrong in this) most primers are porous so will eventually rust will get through.
i would probably consult the body shop who will be doing the spraying as they might tell you they will strip it all of and start from scratch so it might not matter what you spray it with !

 

[the snooper]

just get some spray cans, primer and a top coat then when you do take it to a body shop take the empty spray cans with you and tell them that is what was used to do the spot repairs.

they will then know how to treat the areas to stop reactions

 

[vdubz]

I would brush some 2k epoxy primer over the repairs followed by some 2k solid colour, then you could leave it as long as you like and it can be sanded and painted over.

 

[norsa]

just get some spray cans, primer and a top coat then when you do take it to a body shop take the empty spray cans with you and tell them that is what was used to do the spot repairs.

they will then know how to treat the areas to stop reactions

Top advice.
Nick

 

[langy]

If you just brush or roller some 2k Epoxy on that will be fine and bullet proof, epoxy isn't porous like other primers. this will give the painter an ideal surface to work on.

 

[norsa]

If you just brush or roller some 2k Epoxy on that will be fine and bullet proof, epoxy isn't porous like other primers. this will give the painter an ideal surface to work on.

I knew that was coming sooner or later Steve. I really must get myself into 21st century and get some.

 

[Matt S]

Thanks for the quick replys I'll get some epoxy I think - it sounds like the best stuff! I'll do some experiements with it on some odd sheet first to test out different thinning levels and different applicators to see what works best for a smooth, clean finish!

Thanks!

Matt

 

[carlos420uk]

If you just brush or roller some 2k Epoxy on that will be fine and bullet proof, epoxy isn't porous like other primers. this will give the painter an ideal surface to work on.

I'd go with this advice ^.

Having personally used a fair bit of the 2 pack Epoxy myself I can say it is brilliant stuff for sealing up metalwork and requires no top coat to seal properly.

Only thing I'd add though is to maybe consider using a roller instead of a brush if you have no spray equipment available.

The brush will definitely leave lines and look a bit rough, whereas the (Foam) roller will leave a slightly stippled effect, but will be nice, flat, and even. I tried both methods and the roller was a clear winner for me straight away.

The paint shop will have to flat the Epoxy down after anyway so the stippled effect will be no problem later; and no matter what they shoot on top of it (Within reason) there should be no reaction.

I used the Epoxy mastic stuff which is a bit thicker than what you want un-thinned, but they also do a Custom Epoxy 421 which is made for body panels (Cheaper alternatives are probably very similar) so ideal for what you want to do.