Basic car bodyshop MIG

[scotto75]

Hi,

I need a second MIG welder in my workshop to do flat tacks and stitch welds on steel classic car bodywork that need little grinding. We use TiG a lot, OA a little, but sometimes we can’t get into all the nooks and crannies.

What do guys who work in car bodyshops recommend?

Just want to have something simple to use for the lad I have working for me. Couple of knobs, setup for thin steel and left alone and know that it will produce nice flat tacks and stitch welds without the need for lots of grinding. This bit is important.

I have a Kemppi Evo 200 we use for all the other stuff, so it doesn’t need to have a high voltage range. 30A min is essential. Inverter or transformer is fine. Can be new or an older secondhand option.

Tbh, I would use the Kemppi but we don’t really get on with it on very thin stuff. It’s great for anything else but always found it a bit of a faff to dial in the settings for nice small and flat tacks and stitches on 0.8-1.0mm. Not really satisfied with the auto settings for thin metal. Tried 0.6 as well. Probably us, but need a second machine anyway so something simple and reliable would be great.

I know there are loads of threads posted about this, but they’re all seem to suggest getting an R-Tech machine. I’ve had a MIG and TIG machine from R-Tech and I can’t complain about them but wondered what else people would recommend.

Can be new or used.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[hotponyshoes]

For thin stuff a pulse mig is ideal.
Paton is a good budget option.
It is tricky to set up the pulse setting but you only need to do it once..

There are other even cheaper options with pulse (but questionable warranty)
Or easier to use options (more expensive)

 

[scotto75]

For thin stuff a pulse mig is ideal.
Paton is a good budget option.
It is tricky to set up the pulse setting but you only need to do it once..

There are other even cheaper options with pulse (but questionable warranty)
Or easier to use options (more expensive)

Thanks for the reply.

The Paton was on my list for exactly that reason, but had a feeling that there was a problem with the first batch that WSD sold where they were faulty out of the box? Sure that was a thread on here, but would imagine that sorted now.

 

[scotto75]

Thanks for the reply.

The Paton was on my list for exactly that reason, but had a feeling that there was a problem with the first batch that WSD sold where they were faulty out of the box? Sure that was a thread on here, but would imagine that sorted now.

In fairness I think the issue was with the 160 a few years back.

 

[hotponyshoes]

That's why I'd suggest something like the Paton, as you can get it from a uk supplier so it's not too much of a problem if its doa.

Obviously places like ebay cover you for doa on unbranded stuff but warranty issues a few months in might be problematic..

 

[scotto75]

I’ve heard they’ve got good customer service.

Is it a bit too fancy for just tacking 1.0mm steel?

Maybe the Kemppi would be redundant. Not sure how much an Evo 200 is 2nd hand but could sell it to get some cash back.

 

[RWD3M]

If all you want to use it on is classic car bodywork then anything above 100A will be wasted. I have a little Cebora 130 that copes extremely well with any classic car body work that I've done (and there's been a lot of that! ) It also copes well with box and angle up to 5mm.

Using a sledgehamme to crack a nut springs to mind.

That said, I don't really know what's available these days, my MiG is quite an age now.

 

[barracuda816]

I know it's a big old unit but I really like my Portamig185. I use it mostly on bodywork and like how it welds, and it is useful being able to turn it up and use it for bolt/stud extraction or on thicker stuff.

Having said that, I am not sure I would buy one this day and age, I like the fact that it should last for many many years being a transformer unit but If it died now I think I would give an inverter mig with at least pulse feature a go. It would be nice to be able carry it about if I wanted too. The PortaMig is ironically really not so portable.

 

[hotponyshoes]

Really any mig at any budget will be fine for a run of tacks on 1.0mm steel.

I suggest a pulse mig as you asked what guys who work in bodyshops recommended
I'm more involved with damage repair and custom/kit cars than classics but I'd think the welding is much the same?

With a pulse mig you can just run a weld. If you have the right settings you can get a very flat profile that needs minimal grinding.
You'll get no more (possibly less) distortion than a run of tacks and less splatter. It will also take far less time to weld and less time to clean up.

Note that I'm presuming you are running a set of tacks to form a complete weld.
If you are literally just tacking stuff in place then pulse is not really any benefit although it does burn into dirty/rusty metal better but I'd guess you are removing that first if you are doing restoration rather than just sticking a new sill on a rotten transit van...

If you just want something to tack then any of the bigger box type things on wheels woth a bottle holder as that will also double up as a mobile table for grinders and you can sling the leads and mask onto the bottle when you are done. No need to spend large sums of money as you only need functional rather than long duty cycles or features.

I've got a draper mig that would do the job well enough if you are anywhere near Somerset!

 

[mr haynes]

The other name in addition to those already mentioned is Jasic.

 

[Munkul]

I wouldn't recommend a pulse mig for thin steel unless you're mig brazing.
Pulse mig always runs hotter than short circuit arc in my experience. 30 amps pulse is hotter than 30 amps "normal". If I'm running below 100 amps I'm in short-arc, not pulse, on my Lorch set.

As for what to recommend, I'm not sure. A decent inverter you can play with the inductance setting to soften or harden the arc to suit your welding style on short arc. I'd probably have said the kemppi but you don't like it so...

 

[Ruffian]

Paton pulse mig would be a good shout,

Easy options would also include the r-tech 180.
Do like using the parweld and jasic digital also.
All can be supplied from local suppliers for backup and decent warranties.

 

[scotto75]

Thanks for all the feedback.

I think my issues with the Kemppi welding butt joints on 1.0mm with multiple tacks are best kept for another thread.

I think I would have to trade the Kemppi for the Paton.... as mentioned above, no point having both.

If I keep the Kemppi, then I just need a something basic and simple. I think preferably new, because even when spending a few hundred quid I like some kind of warranty.

 

[RWD3M]

Thanks for all the feedback.

I think my issues with the Kemppi welding butt joints on 1.0mm with multiple tacks are best kept for another thread.

I think I would have to trade the Kemppi for the Paton.... as mentioned above, no point having both.

If I keep the Kemppi, then I just need a something basic and simple. I think preferably new, because even when spending a few hundred quid I like some kind of warranty.

Or......

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/cebora-pocket-turbo-130-mig-welder.138859/

 

[marlinspike]

We've used our big Cebora Autostar to restore our old car, weld gates and so on. It's been great but if we do another car I would be looking at getting something like the £350 ish Gys migs. People on here seem to rate them and they're a lot more portable and maneuverable.