- Thread starter scottmk1
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years ago at the NEC on 'accurate cutting services' stand they described a tensioning procedure using a spring balance & on my spaldlings saw [8' blade] i couldn't get near there quoted figure with a gloved hand on the tensioning knob,however i've never had slippage,so i suggest you ask saw maker or someone like ACS.TO give you a figure as a ref' .
Load it with the heaviest material you will cut, apply tension and take a partial cut, if it slips then remove from cut and add a little more tension, repeat until it stops slipping.
One word about coolant, many people use a coolant and some use oil such as engine oil; some saws don't like such coolants and make the blades slip.
One word about coolant, many people use a coolant and some use oil such as engine oil; some saws don't like such coolants and make the blades slip.
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The blade needs to be tight to make sure it cuts true and doesn't wander. This tension is well above the point at which the blade starts to slip on the rollers.
Our big bandsaw has a pressure gauge to tell you when the tension is correct - I can't remember the figures off the top of my head but it's a lot. Its a two handed effort on the handle to get it up to tension - enough to make you think you are tightening it far too tight. I'm sure there's a graph on the side to tell you....mind, our blades are 5m long and 50mm wide so might not be too relevant!!
Our big bandsaw has a pressure gauge to tell you when the tension is correct - I can't remember the figures off the top of my head but it's a lot. Its a two handed effort on the handle to get it up to tension - enough to make you think you are tightening it far too tight. I'm sure there's a graph on the side to tell you....mind, our blades are 5m long and 50mm wide so might not be too relevant!!
cumbriasteve
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My Clarke bandsaw was not used a lot, for tension I simply did it up very tight until I got no slipping or wandering off line, occasionaly I had to clean the rollers of cutting fluid the blade had dragged onto them.
I don't know if it was really of any benefit but when I was finished I used to slacken off two turns and retighten two turns the next time I used it, I had it in mind it stopped the blade stretching and took the pressure off the bearings...could be rubbish advice and not needed but my blades lasted for ages.
I don't know if it was really of any benefit but when I was finished I used to slacken off two turns and retighten two turns the next time I used it, I had it in mind it stopped the blade stretching and took the pressure off the bearings...could be rubbish advice and not needed but my blades lasted for ages.
Shox Dr
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Just had a search, that looks to be a big mchine. I thought it was a small clone, that have mind of there own.
As Paul says, usually have a proximity sensor, and need to be uber tight. Unlike the toy I have, the blade type effects the amount of tension.
As Paul says, usually have a proximity sensor, and need to be uber tight. Unlike the toy I have, the blade type effects the amount of tension.
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There is a (manufacturers) sign on ours saying 'release blade tension at the end of every day'. Yeah, right.
scottmk1
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Yes it's a big old thing, 250mm capacity. I think it's fairly old as it has nothing fancy like proximity switches for the blade. It's just the sheer weight of it that moves it down through the material, and has hydraulic damping with spring assist to lift it back up again.
