Bandsaw blade slippage problem.

[Redsailor]

Have one of the ubiquitous 6 x 4 small bandsaws that I have been doing some mods on. I'll post a thread with pics when I've finished molesting it with various tools and dodgy welding.

One addition is a blade coolant system and I am now experiencing the blade slipping on the drive wheel and stalling in the cut. It has a new 14 tpi bi-metal blade, the downforce has been set to the lowest achievable on the standard saw and the blade tension is now as far as I would like to go and higher than before. Coolant is soluble oil 5% mix with water. The blade is running freely and not binding in the kerf and it is not cutting thin sections.

Any suggestions. I am thinking of knurling the drive wheel to see if that clears the oil, adding some sort of wiper on the blade and possibly reducing the downforce even more and reducing the oil %. Have also got some different blades on order from Tuffsaws. The other thought is trying to find some non oil based coolant. What are the pro' bandsaw users using? Have had a quick look on www and cannot find any info'

 

[Mark 2]

Does it need coolant?

 

[dieselsamurai]

A wiper each side of the blade will help Ive done this mod to my much bigger saw and most of the swarf falls into a catch pot below it

tooth brushes are ideal

 

[Brad93]

It's always worn drive wheels due to debris on the blade

 

[Brad93]

A rotating wire brush works.

My saw uses a stream of coolant after the cut to wash chips away.

 

[Redsailor]

It's always worn drive wheels due to debris on the blade

I have already taken the wheels off and gave them a skim over in the lathe.

 

[Brad93]

I have already taken the wheels off and gave them a skim over in the lathe.

Hmm unsure then.

 

[Redsailor]

Thanks for the replies guys. Could possibly be the oil is carrying fine debris and coating the drive wheel. May try the toothbrushes, ho hum, manual or electric?

 

[Agroshield]

Please excuse the stupid question, but how are you determining the tension? If the adjuster just feels tighter than before, or is harder to turn, are you absolutely certain the strenuous knob cranking is being transmitted to the blade itself? Is there any possibility the mechanism is binding up or bottoming out?

 

[Redsailor]

Please excuse the stupid question, but how are you determining the tension? If the adjuster just feels tighter than before, or is harder to turn, are you absolutely certain the strenuous knob cranking is being transmitted to the blade itself? Is there any possibility the mechanism is binding up or bottoming out?

Rough and ready method is applied finger pressure on the long run between the two wheels. Or simply "twanging" the blade and listening to the sound.

 

[Mark 2]

Rough and ready method is applied finger pressure on the long run between the two wheels. Or simply "twanging" the blade and listening to the sound.

Are we talking pizzicato or Bartók pizzicato.

 

[Laurie Tedcastle]

Thanks for the replies guys. Could possibly be the oil is carrying fine debris and coating the drive wheel. May try the toothbrushes, ho hum, manual or electric?

I've used drip feed neat cutting oil on my 6x4 bandsaw for years to reduce friction and improve blade life. Slippage never a problem.As regards tension, 1.3/4 turns of the screw from just no slack to full tension is about right ( I have a blade tension meter).

Laurie

 

[E T]

Those small 6x4 bandsaws are made for dry cutting only as far as I know.
If you want to cool the blade use compressed air not coolant, but I never felt the need to do either on mine.