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frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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there are quite a few machine tool suppliers that will prob cover that...
have a look on a few model eng forums for details.....they help / supply the DIY'er......and understand ur probs....
have a look on a few model eng forums for details.....they help / supply the DIY'er......and understand ur probs....
Agroshield
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In short, no.
I have never seen anything with a female B16 taper in it other than a drill chuck.
Even the more common Jacobs taper is only ever seen in its female version on the end of a drill chuck.
Even if you could buy one, it is probably not a good idea to keep taking things off and putting things onto a short taper such as B16. It is conceptually not the same as a Morse taper, whic can be changed in and out all day long.
It is possible to buy a Rotabroach 3/4" female Weldon shank on a 1/2" diameter plain shaft, which would go in a drill chuck, but this makes the setup very long.
I have never seen anything with a female B16 taper in it other than a drill chuck.
Even the more common Jacobs taper is only ever seen in its female version on the end of a drill chuck.
Even if you could buy one, it is probably not a good idea to keep taking things off and putting things onto a short taper such as B16. It is conceptually not the same as a Morse taper, whic can be changed in and out all day long.
It is possible to buy a Rotabroach 3/4" female Weldon shank on a 1/2" diameter plain shaft, which would go in a drill chuck, but this makes the setup very long.
Agroshield
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If you wanted a semi-permanent connection, the Chinese make a B16 female to ER32 chuck. You would need to buy a 3/4" collet for it (it would be worth investing in a genuine 3/4" imperial ER32 collet* rather than a 20-19mm metric one or the bit will keep dropping out as you try to tighten it):
Another alternative is to buy a cheap B16 drill chuck, remove all the pieces that do not look correct, bore out the nose to 3/4" diameter and add a couple of grub screws:
* these are difficult to find and get it in writing from the seller before purchase that the collet is genuinely imperial: https://trucuttools.co.uk/er32-imperial-collets/
It might be possible to abuse a 19-18mm metric one, maybe by inserting the rotabraoch cutter with the collet not in the nut and then filling the slots with silicone. If you do not spring it a bit, you will fight it every time you go to insert the cutter.
Another alternative is to buy a cheap B16 drill chuck, remove all the pieces that do not look correct, bore out the nose to 3/4" diameter and add a couple of grub screws:
* these are difficult to find and get it in writing from the seller before purchase that the collet is genuinely imperial: https://trucuttools.co.uk/er32-imperial-collets/
It might be possible to abuse a 19-18mm metric one, maybe by inserting the rotabraoch cutter with the collet not in the nut and then filling the slots with silicone. If you do not spring it a bit, you will fight it every time you go to insert the cutter.
timgunn1962
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B16 is a short chuck taper. The "proper" way to do things was/is to have a long female tooling taper in the spindle (usually a Morse taper) and to fit a MT-to-B16 arbor to mount the chuck. The chuck would be permanently mounted on the arbor and the MT taper would be the one used to change the chuck/arbor assembly.
Downward pressure on cost has meant that many of the more affordable drills made recently have the male chuck taper machined directly onto the spindle: it saves the cost of the arbor. Presumably, yours is like this?
Before trying to find a (potential unicorn) adapter to go B16 female to 3/4" Weldon female, it would be prudent to check whether your drill can provide low enough speed and, much more importantly, high enough torque to run the annular cutters in the sizes you intend to use.
At work, we have an EvoMag42 mag drill. It's speed is 450 RPM and rated power is 1200W (a bit more than 1 1/2 HP). For a fairly typical 1/2 HP bench/pillar drill, you'd need the belt-drive speed down below 150 RPM to give similar torque to the Evo. 1 HP would have similar torque to the Evo at a speed of 300 RPM.
To be honest, the Evo specs seem pretty optimistic: it works very well at 30mm but definitely needs some babying by 38mm. I've not tried it at the claimed maximum of 42mm and wouldn't really want to.
I have a Kerry Super8 bench drill with a 1/2 HP motor and minimum speed of around 80 RPM (from memory) thanks to a backgear system. It'll work with a 2 MT to 3/4" Weldon adapter and Rotabroach cutters. The toughest job I've done with it to date was a 38mm TCT annular cutter through a piece of 45mm thick forklift tine. The Evo had struggled badly with this, with the cutter repeatedly binding in the hole and stalling the drill. I'd felt the speed was too high, it was making too much heat, and that it needed lower speed. 1/2 HP at 80 RPM would be getting on for twice the torque of the Evo and even allowing for the inevitable transmission losses, it'd be a substantial increase. Forklift tines are Heat-Treated medium-Carbon steel and much more challenging to drill than mild steel.
Downward pressure on cost has meant that many of the more affordable drills made recently have the male chuck taper machined directly onto the spindle: it saves the cost of the arbor. Presumably, yours is like this?
Before trying to find a (potential unicorn) adapter to go B16 female to 3/4" Weldon female, it would be prudent to check whether your drill can provide low enough speed and, much more importantly, high enough torque to run the annular cutters in the sizes you intend to use.
At work, we have an EvoMag42 mag drill. It's speed is 450 RPM and rated power is 1200W (a bit more than 1 1/2 HP). For a fairly typical 1/2 HP bench/pillar drill, you'd need the belt-drive speed down below 150 RPM to give similar torque to the Evo. 1 HP would have similar torque to the Evo at a speed of 300 RPM.
To be honest, the Evo specs seem pretty optimistic: it works very well at 30mm but definitely needs some babying by 38mm. I've not tried it at the claimed maximum of 42mm and wouldn't really want to.
I have a Kerry Super8 bench drill with a 1/2 HP motor and minimum speed of around 80 RPM (from memory) thanks to a backgear system. It'll work with a 2 MT to 3/4" Weldon adapter and Rotabroach cutters. The toughest job I've done with it to date was a 38mm TCT annular cutter through a piece of 45mm thick forklift tine. The Evo had struggled badly with this, with the cutter repeatedly binding in the hole and stalling the drill. I'd felt the speed was too high, it was making too much heat, and that it needed lower speed. 1/2 HP at 80 RPM would be getting on for twice the torque of the Evo and even allowing for the inevitable transmission losses, it'd be a substantial increase. Forklift tines are Heat-Treated medium-Carbon steel and much more challenging to drill than mild steel.
