- Thread starter Paulie73
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Trevorleach
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Scratch start the arc, ie drag it a little until you have it welding, might have it set to low an amps setting.
Rods need to be kept in the dry, ie in the house, mine live on top of the boiler.
General purpose rods are called 6013.
Rods need to be kept in the dry, ie in the house, mine live on top of the boiler.
General purpose rods are called 6013.
Erie Fred
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To quote Jon Anderson "Turn it up, turn it up, turn it up".... 
What dia. rod ?
What amperage ?
What polarity ?
When just starting out learning, use thicker material for practice so you don't have to worry about burning thru.
Turn up the amperage, and work on laying nice straight beads.
What dia. rod ?
What amperage ?
What polarity ?
When just starting out learning, use thicker material for practice so you don't have to worry about burning thru.
Turn up the amperage, and work on laying nice straight beads.
Barking Mat
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Get a sacrificial bit of steel to start the rods and get your amps / penetration right.
Then start welding.
Keep rods dry !
Then start welding.
Keep rods dry !
The point that jo1010 makes about crappy no brand rods is worth noting as are all the others - dry rods, thicker stock to practice, scratch to start the arc.
Also, as long as you have decent gloves you can steady the rod or the hand that's got the rod holder.
Is the machine a modern inverter one as they will automatically drop the amps when they sense the rod sticking - night & day compared to the old buzz boxes.
Also, as long as you have decent gloves you can steady the rod or the hand that's got the rod holder.
Is the machine a modern inverter one as they will automatically drop the amps when they sense the rod sticking - night & day compared to the old buzz boxes.
You don't say what kind of welders you have. If your arc welder is a single phase ac set and has a choice of high or low voltage output, you will want it on the higher voltage when using 7018s, probably 80 - 90v, and even then 7018s are a difficult rod for a beginner to use.
premmington
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Most "modern" MMA rods need a high OCV to ignite them.
Buzzbox's and oil cooled welders are about 48V and just don't cut it now - most rods need 100V plus OCV....
I been readin the tech spec on rods - before I buy them - for my aging welding sets....
Buzzbox's and oil cooled welders are about 48V and just don't cut it now - most rods need 100V plus OCV....
I been readin the tech spec on rods - before I buy them - for my aging welding sets....
Erie Fred
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Hobart makes "7018AC" but I don't care for them.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I had similar issues with my little Hyundai box....it would take a few taps to ignite the rods. My Paton box ignites then on the first tap...and also reignites then very easily too. I'm guessing just a better welder....the rods were identical.
That's surprising and concerning. My two welders are only 60V and 75V open circuit. How many sets actually give over 100V? A quick check didn’t show OCV mentioned on the spec sheets for many electrodes, although Bohler Phoenix Blau say 42V.
premmington
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Most modern DC inverters - have high initial OCV.
That why they light up rods just by waving it at the workpiece.
Most MMA welders sold are inverters - so thus most rods sold are for high OCV start ups.
Both mine are inverters, cheap sets. However a quick look on WSD suggests most are no better. The most expensive Jasic for example states 65V.
