Appying decals onto metallic paint,under clear coat?

[Afterimage]

I've not done any 'fancy' painting,just synthetic enamel on Land Rovers and tool boxes etc.

I'm soon to paint a motorcycle gas tank in cellulose metallic,but I have decals and I'm unsure how to go about applying them.
My understanding is that I shouldn't flat the metallic paint,but if I put the shiny chrome effect lettering on a surface that's not perfectly flat it's not going to look too good.

Should I spray a couple of coats of clear coat onto the metallic,flat that down,apply decals and then carefully flat it down again whilst avoiding the decals,then more coats of clear coat?

 

[steveo3002]

i think thats what id do

although what clear ? will it stand up to fuel spills?

 

[ajlelectronics]

Should I spray a couple of coats of clear coat onto the metallic,flat that down,apply decals and then carefully flat it down again whilst avoiding the decals,then more coats of clear coat?

Your base coat should be perfectly flat enough for the purpose, however you risk getting contaminants onto the surface and also a potential loss of adhesion so I wouldn't. As suggested, clear it, apply decals and clear over the top. Doing it that way, you could probably get a bodyshop to do final coats in 2K for you.

 

[Afterimage]

Thanks for the advice,I'll think about 2k clear coat.

 

[sickpup]

Your best bet is to check with the supplier of the decals as I've encountered some in the past where the colour ran when clear coat was applied over the top.

 

[MoreWellie]

I haven't tried flattening it but my hopefully useful input is that

I have used tractol enamel paints and you can buy clear base from them which does go happily over the coloured enamel

 

[Porkypine]

With decals I've seen it recommended that you mist, very gradually, a couple of coats or so, very lightly, on the decal before soaking it off the backing, this is meant to protect it and stop the risk of the decal colours running.

 

[steveo3002]

With decals I've seen it recommended that you mist, very gradually, a couple of coats or so, very lightly, on the decal before soaking it off the backing, this is meant to protect it and stop the risk of the decal colours running.

makes sense to sneak up on it , vs soaking it and the clear going under the edge etc

 

[Afterimage]

With decals I've seen it recommended that you mist, very gradually, a couple of coats or so, very lightly, on the decal before soaking it off the backing, this is meant to protect it and stop the risk of the decal colours running.

Yes,I've seen videos on YouTube showing a couple of dryish coats over the decals before going to wet coats.

 

[marlinspike]

I make wooden Christmas present tags with water slide transfers. The advice is to give them light coats of clear sealer/varnish before putting in the water. It makes them less fragile to handle. Too many coats and the transfers crack though so be careful not to overdo it.

 

[graffian]

I have used laser printed waterslides. I can’t remember using bought in transfers.

You can’t polish or flat a solid metallic and the same goes for a metallic basecoat, even a tack rag can leave marks on basecoat. Give it a coat of clear before playing with it.

After putting the transfers on I give the entire thing a couple of heavy coats of clear. It’s usually well covered and edges are barely visible covers, I can see it’s not flat but I can’t be arsed to flat and polish it.

I use one of the modelmakers products, Humbrol decalfix or microsol/set rather than water, improves the adhesion of the transfer to base considerably.
If they are bought in transfers best to ask what to do with them or experiment with some spares.

One issue I can see is single stage metallic. I wouldn’t use a solid metallic, I used solid metallics for some time and I always had the choice of colour or finish, but not both. Use a basecoat.