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roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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horrible things but get the job done...helps iff you keep the nuts pretty tight on the extending links to stop them stretching to one side as you tighten into the taper
Digger6135
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Drop forged steel, they must be worth a punt at that price.
Digger6135
Digger6135
Bill Edwards
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What are you hoping to do with them?
If it's something that you know won't be tight, and a one off, then they might do.
I wouldn't touch anything other than a hydraulic one for most jobs though. It's both having the power, the amount of effort and hydraulic ones are less likely to slip off because you aren't wrenching it with as much force.
Then again, most of my work is on farm gear, if you're just wanting to pull a pulley off an old motor or something then it may be different.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic...623?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4d2f5f2f
These are quite handy, but could be a waste of money if you'll never need them again.
If it's something that you know won't be tight, and a one off, then they might do.
I wouldn't touch anything other than a hydraulic one for most jobs though. It's both having the power, the amount of effort and hydraulic ones are less likely to slip off because you aren't wrenching it with as much force.
Then again, most of my work is on farm gear, if you're just wanting to pull a pulley off an old motor or something then it may be different.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic...623?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4d2f5f2f
These are quite handy, but could be a waste of money if you'll never need them again.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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Iff its to remove the motor pully on your comp then use a bit of heat on the shaft area of the pully to expand it a thou and you should be able to pull that off by hand. Try pulling it with a puller cold and you risk snapping an edge off it
brightspark
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they may pull u out of the proverbial sh ... if u have nothing else and whatever your pulling isnt on tight . machine mart cheapies arent much better. worth a punt if u dont want to shell out for a sykes picavant set . thats what i use. i did get a crap set given once and got the job away
Wallace
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£9.95 for a set of three delivered? 
How do they do it and make a profit? Better than nothing on light work but as Roofman says keep the nuts semi tight otherwise they flop about all over the place, keep the main bolt threads greased and they could get you out of trouble.
How do they do it and make a profit? Better than nothing on light work but as Roofman says keep the nuts semi tight otherwise they flop about all over the place, keep the main bolt threads greased and they could get you out of trouble.
julianf
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Iff its to remove the motor pully on your comp then use a bit of heat on the shaft area of the pully to expand it a thou and you should be able to pull that off by hand. Try pulling it with a puller cold and you risk snapping an edge off it
It is for the compressor.
Ive heated the pulley to above boiling point, and theres no movement. I dont want to go any hotter as the heat will transfer.
If the devices on ebay are one-hit-wonders (if that) then ill make somthing for the job. I dont want to spend £60 on a puller for a £20 compressor.
Spark plug
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I've learned the hard way with pullers and only buy Sykes now, the difference I quality is emediatly apparent especially in weight and the shape of ends.
MattF
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Those things are complete and utter crap. They're overpriced compared to actual worth. You'd probably suffer less damage and frustration by just beating the pulley off. They're so shonkily designed and finished that I honestly wouldn't recommend even trying one.
premmington
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Oh.... How true.
Sykes is the way to go. I have about three mixed full sets of Sykes pullers all with hydraulic rams. 1500 series I think. Some new some secondhand. Some two jaw, some three jaw, hub pullers and the ram extensions. Long and short jaws. Inner adapters, ball race adapters, bearing splitters with long threaded adapters I can just about anything up now from my collection.
julianf
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I just googles Sykes pullers....
Like i say, the compressor cost me £20. I think the cheapest Sykes unit i saw was £170.
I understand the need for good tools, but there are limits! : )
That said, my current bodge seems to be doing nothing at all (except, that is, for bending the spanner) -
I suspect, more than anything else, the pulley is glued on by years of emulsified vegetable oil.
Like i say, the compressor cost me £20. I think the cheapest Sykes unit i saw was £170.
I understand the need for good tools, but there are limits! : )
That said, my current bodge seems to be doing nothing at all (except, that is, for bending the spanner) -
I suspect, more than anything else, the pulley is glued on by years of emulsified vegetable oil.
brightspark
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when u warm it up put sum pressure on your clamps and give your spanner a good bat with a hammer in the center and it will shift iif it dont shift even a set of good pullers will just bend and snap your pulley
iif it dont shift even a set of good pullers will just bend and snap your pulleyBill Edwards
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I just googles Sykes pullers....
Like i say, the compressor cost me £20. I think the cheapest Sykes unit i saw was £170.
I understand the need for good tools, but there are limits! : )
That said, my current bodge seems to be doing nothing at all (except, that is, for bending the spanner) -
I suspect, more than anything else, the pulley is glued on by years of emulsified vegetable oil.
That's a nice setup actually!
I take it you don't have a piece of small angle or similar that'll resist bending better than the spanner?
As above, heat will help, crank up the pressure again and hit the shaft end, the shock often works. Give it a few taps, tighten the clamps again and tap again and so on, you'll normally find it's moving - sometimes all at once, sometimes just a little extra turn of the puller gives it away.
Lay the motor on its fan end and soak the pulley in a 50/50 mix of atf and cellulose thinners for a couple of days. Assemble the clamps like you have, apply some pressure and heat, then hit it a smack as brightspark said. After hitting it you might find you can tighten the clamps more, that means that the shock from the hammer has moved something.
Which part are you saving, the pulley or motor? If the motor is scrap you could drill out the shaft as much as possible then use a bolt down the hole you've drilled to press it out. Aluminium pulleys on a steel shaft tend to weld themselves together as they corrode and can be impossible to separate without breaking one or the other. It's a good idea to use some type of loctite when assembling them to reduce the electrolytic corrosion between the steel & aluminium.
Which part are you saving, the pulley or motor? If the motor is scrap you could drill out the shaft as much as possible then use a bolt down the hole you've drilled to press it out. Aluminium pulleys on a steel shaft tend to weld themselves together as they corrode and can be impossible to separate without breaking one or the other. It's a good idea to use some type of loctite when assembling them to reduce the electrolytic corrosion between the steel & aluminium.
julianf
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Got it sorted -
No hammer work, just clamps and heat. Heated it, and it clicked, and moved. Had to then reassemble with a different spacer, as it was not a 'dry' bond, but, as i expected, a load of gunk which melted and then set again.
All apart now, the shafts cleaned up, and reassembled.
The whole purpose of the exercise was to flip the pulley to reduce the offset between the motor mount and the job that its driving. Its not clear from the photo above, but the pulley has quite a shoulder on it, where the grubscrew passes. In flipping the pulley, the shoulder is on the outside, and the belts will run closer to the motor (or the belts will run in the same place, but the motor will move a couple of inches over)
Thank you for evreyones help and advice. You saved me spending a tenner on somthing that, it seems, may have caused me more pain than pleasure.
No hammer work, just clamps and heat. Heated it, and it clicked, and moved. Had to then reassemble with a different spacer, as it was not a 'dry' bond, but, as i expected, a load of gunk which melted and then set again.
All apart now, the shafts cleaned up, and reassembled.
The whole purpose of the exercise was to flip the pulley to reduce the offset between the motor mount and the job that its driving. Its not clear from the photo above, but the pulley has quite a shoulder on it, where the grubscrew passes. In flipping the pulley, the shoulder is on the outside, and the belts will run closer to the motor (or the belts will run in the same place, but the motor will move a couple of inches over)
Thank you for evreyones help and advice. You saved me spending a tenner on somthing that, it seems, may have caused me more pain than pleasure.
winchman
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}I occasionally go to the Car Boot sale, over the years I have seen various bits from the Sykes Picadvance hydraulic puller, so I started to buy bits, I found the hydraulic unit and one leg, I now have two and a half complete pullers and its been a god send, cost me about £15 in total
Would a local garage not pop around and remove it for you?
Would a local garage not pop around and remove it for you?
