Any Ideas How to Replicate This?

[octo0072000]

By the time all the talking setting and up is done i could have done it to size with a bit of bar and a file and a grinder
after all it's a mower and as all good apprentices were taught to file a square

 

[RichardM]

Just to throw another way to do it in, make a plug to fit the inside of the bush, make stepped washer to bolt it to the vertical slide, od of stepped washer as a guide to where to mill it to.
Bolt it to the vertical slide and then use the cross slide / verticle screws to give the movement required with a milling cutter in the chuck.

 

[Turbo]

Made a start tonight by stripping down my 4 jaw chuck. I don't think it has ever been used as it still has a coating of hard grease in places & surface rust where it had rubbed off. It's getting an overnight soak in the e-bath to clean it up.
I also made a chuck key using an old allen key & some 20mm tube.

 

[Turbo]

Got very little done today, had 2 lots of visitors & it was easy to distract me from going to the garage. My shoulder is currently giving me grief causing numbness in my arm & hand.

Anyway, the electrolysis took most of the crud off the chuck & a green scotch pad took off the rest. Finished it off with a rub over with chain oil.

It came up very well & as suspected the jaws are unmarked so it has had little use!
One thing to note is that the e-bath will ruin the 'Burnerd' sticker. I forgot to remove mine & it took off the writing completely!

That's my chuck key on the top rhs. A bit of a botch up but it will do until I make a better one on the lathe.

 

[Turbo]

I did some quick measurements today & it appears that the bushing holes in the casings are worn. Unfortunately they are not worn evenly so I can't machine a bushing that will be a precise fit in the housing. I could get it close & tickle it with a file for the final fit.

To fill any gaps I was considering using a gap filling compound like loctite 660. There are other bushings in the gearbox that are not worn internally but are showings signs of being loose in the casing & I would like to secure them as well. Has anyone used 660 before, is it thin enough for the excess to squeeze out when I tighten the casing halves together?

 

[james butler]

could you get some square bar material and turn the edges round and drill a hole through it? that should leave you with the shape bush you require

 

[zzr1200]

Has anyone used 660 before, is it thin enough for the excess to squeeze out when I tighten the casing halves together?

Yes, I've used it before worked well for me, reseating a new rear wheel bearing in my Kawasaki zzr1100 the old one locked solid for no apparent reason, done thousands of miles on the bike after the repair no problems.

 

[Turbo]

Well I've successfully made one bushing & it fits beautifully, just have the other side to do!

I'll have some pics for tomorrow!

 

[ukracer]

Buy a bush of the correct inner/outer diameter, from your local bearing supplier.

Find a bit of square steel stock to fit the tool post of the lathe, turn a mandrel to fit the bush then mount the mandrel in the tool post with an end mill in the chuck and machine it, this is of course if you don't have a mill.

Or just get the file or the grinder out .....man its a lawn mower.....

Thats the way i would be doing it. You can get it close enough without much effort.

It would be easy on a larger machine with bigger tool post obviously......

 

[andymfell]

for information your Peerless transaxle is not filled with oil but Bentonite Grease

the quantity is shown on page 7 of this WSM
http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Te...m_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

the type number is on a little tin plate riveted on
it looks like a 800 series

 

[Turbo]

To make the bushing I used this method as posted by Hood.

I would do it on my CNC mill but as you don't have one then I don't really see an issue with doing it in the 4 jaw. Face one side and then flip 180 degrees and that will ensure that these two faces are parallel, then flip 90 and the two machined faces will be against the jaws which again will ensure the facing is true to the others and then lastly flip 180 and do the last face. If the jaws are deeper than the bush then just use a piece of tool steel or similar as a packer to push the bush against whilst you tighten the jaws, you can keep it pushed against the tool steel with the tailstock, if required, whilst tightening the jaws. Just make sure you remove the tool steel packer before you start the lathe

First thing I did was to make a steel slug that was a light press fit in the bushing. This acted as a support to avoid crushing the bushing & gave the chuck something to grip. Then I cut the bushing to length, faced it square then into the 4-jaw for the final machining.

This is a before & after shot with the steel slug in the middle.

This is the fitment of the old bushing in the casing, you can see the gap at the side.

This is the new bushings fitted.

The finished bushings fitted beautifully, only requiring a tickle with a file on one corner to allow the cover to fit together easily.
This is the gearbox all cleaned, assembled & waiting for the top cover.

It's quite a clever & compact gearbox, it's a pity they didn't use better tolerances when manufacturing the casings!

 

[Turbo]

for information your Peerless transaxle is not filled with oil but Bentonite Grease

the quantity is shown on page 7 of this WSM
http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Te...m_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

the type number is on a little tin plate riveted on
it looks like a 800 series

Mine didn't have any tin plate but from the parts lists & WSM I worked out that it's actually a 200 series. It takes 16oz of 80/90w gear oil, which is correct as there was some gear oil left in the box when I opened it.