Anvil Repair

[Windy Miller]

I have an anvil with about an inch missing from the tip of the horn or beak or bick whatever you like to call it. As far as I can tell, it's forged not cast.

I'd like to repair it, and I'd thought of building it up with weld. Is that a viable technique? It's never going to be hit seriously hard, as I only have a small forge so I'll not be working anything too big and heavy. I'm not worried too much about the repaired are not being as hard as the rest of the anvil, and I'd be happy enough to weld up and dents and dings that I make. What does concern me though, is the whole repaired area coming off one day! That's bound to happen right in the middle of a delicate job!

If it turns out to be a sensible idea, what rods should I use? 7018's? 6013's?

My thoughts would be a bit of preheat, and build up in a series of passes, with a cooling off period between each pass so as not to let the HAZ spread too far.

Any thoughts?

 

[brightspark]

I have an anvil with about an inch missing from the tip of the horn or beak or bick whatever you like to call it. As far as I can tell, it's forged not cast.

I'd like to repair it, and I'd thought of building it up with weld. Is that a viable technique? It's never going to be hit seriously hard, as I only have a small forge so I'll not be working anything too big and heavy. I'm not worried too much about the repaired are not being as hard as the rest of the anvil, and I'd be happy enough to weld up and dents and dings that I make. What does concern me though, is the whole repaired area coming off one day! That's bound to happen right in the middle of a delicate job!

If it turns out to be a sensible idea, what rods should I use? 7018's? 6013's?

My thoughts would be a bit of preheat, and build up in a series of passes, with a cooling off period between each pass so as not to let the HAZ spread too far.

Any thoughts?

grind it back down to a point an inch isnt a lot to loose

 

[shenion]

You would want to start with NiFe rods or stainless to prevent dilution cracking. Then you could use 7018's or 6013's to fill over it. I'd go with 70xx rods.

 

[Bsmith]

I did mine with a piece of 12mm bolt, built up between with weld to roughly original shape and finished off with angle grinder, I didn't preheat. 6013s preferable as 7018s leave a softer surface.

 

[Shox Dr]

grind it back down to a point an inch isnt a lot to loose

There's no way our lass wood be happy with less than 8"

 

[pete23]

There's no way our lass wood be happy with less than 8"

thats what she told me

 

[Shox Dr]

thats what she told me

Did she not say
I've since learned she needs glasses

 

[brightspark]

Did she not say
I've since learned she needs glasses

its quality not quantity and how u use it

 

[Windy Miller]

Thanks for all the replies Guys - both silly and sensible! I'd rather not lose the inch - I need all I can get!

Judging by your answers, it seems that there are a variety a suitable techniques, so I think I'll just steam in and do it.

Just hope my extra inch don't fall off again - I'll have to change my forum name to stumpy!

 

[Fazerruss]

Its not the size of the nail, its the size of the hammer that counts.

 

[s410man]

There's no way our lass wood be happy with less than 8"

its the size of the anvil not the lenght of the point