Another digger problem

[scarecrow]

Has anybody ever taken the slewing rams out of a digger I need to redo the seals but can't seem to get the rams out.


I presume the sleeve that goes up true the bottom should just drop-down but I can't get it to move I have taken out all the studs I was just wondering if anybody has any ideas on how to get it out

 

[Archie]

A big hammer? Sounds like one for Snowy!

 

[scarecrow]

That was fast archie can't see anywhere to hit it with a hammer and snowy probably is the man

 

[Archie]

You're right. I can't see anywhere to hit it either. The ram looks like it has pins on either side. I, like you, would have thought the sleeve you've taken the studs out of drops down and then the pins drop out of the top and out of the sleeve. But like you say, if the sleeve doesn't move.... Is there somewhere you could hit at the top?

 

[Hitch]

Am i missing something here....
How many studs are there, 6?
The other two holes arn't threaded are they, so you can use 2 bolts to push them out...?

 

[bogbushcricket]

Looking at your second picture, it looks like there are six bolts holding each sleeve in place but there are eight holes. The extra two holes will probably be threaded so you can screw two bolts into in order to force the sleeves out of the casting.

ps. You may have to screw the bolts in as tight as you dare then tap on the side of the sleeve to get it started moving.

Hope this helps,
BBC.

 

[scarecrow]

You could be on to something there I thought they were just 2 studs for lining up the holes I can't see anywhere on top but there is a lot of pipes and a hydraulic block in the way so can't see much of my try stripping it out to have a look

 

[snowcat]

the rams I think have two dogs, and the flange sits over the dogs, have the two rusty holes on the flanges have threads in em I'm guessing there a jacking hole, firstly id clean the flanges up well, you would be amazed how much that paint will make em grab if you get em to move..... then gingerly (I'm assuming they are jacking holes) wind the bolts into them you might need to run a tap down the hole..... apply some pressure on em then tap the side of the flange, I normally try and protect the flange if I can by putting a lump of timber or copper between that and the sledge...... you might be able to sharpen a chisel enougth to drive it in between the two shoulders, keep the pressure on the bolts tho all the time but try not to ring em....... If this don't work your down to heating, keep a hose nearby to keep the heat from the ram as much as you can, again jack on the bolts as much as you dare before you heat, normally once its hot your just hear em pop..... Oh and try and wind the pressure on the bolts even over wise it will make the flange grab.....

If this fails then weld a lump of something IE 1" flat bar to the flange , then you can hit twist and jack as well as heat ( as long as your welds good)..... that will normally have it...... if it doesn't its thermic lance time and cut the suckers out, but I think there come with some perstion....

Oh BTW grind a decent lead so the bolts are a bit pointy, overwise when you wind em there burr and fowl in the hole........

 

[scarecrow]

Just checked and the two holes are threaded I also cleaned out the joint with a screwdriver to get rid of the paint but they look like they are pretty tight in their were exactly do I apply the heat to the bottom or the top also there is quite a lot of greece in the flange so a hose might be a very good idea I presume I weld the bar if need be to the bottom part of the flange

 

[snowcat]

Id go in the top with the heat, and around the pin aim at the casting. id be amazed if it goes without, don't worry about the grease that'll be long gone once thats hot enough to shift sometimes a couple of heat and cooling cycles are needed to get the pin and the casting "cracked" the problem is the pins normally shoulder with wear over the years, yep if you need it weld the bar on the bottom of the flange, It will be a bit of a pig to do, but this quite often will give em the final bit of "persuasion" they need.....

 

[bucko]

i have done it a cople of times on a CAT but i cant help here sorry
just out of intrest what is it?

looks like you have to undo a ring of bolts then knok them collers dwn
good luck

but dont damage the two bits that pass through the slide frame other wise you neva get the thing out

 

[zzr1200]

Sorry to mention this, but....


Is there a vertical crack in the main frame casting just above the lower jack mounting flange.

 

[storm monkey]

The cylinders will almost certianly have trunnion pins (short stub pins) attached, so dropping the sleeves down will expose the lower pin, allowing the cylinder to drop, and remove from the slide frame. I don't recognise the design, what machine is it on?

When you refit it all, put everything back in place, loosly attach the bolts then make sure you gently swing the hoe from side to side. This will allow everything to settle into place, before its all torqued up. I ran some testing on machines earlier this year, and if you don't do this, its amaving how quickly you cen destroy the swing cylinder rod end pins.

If that is a crack in the casting (again, I'm very familiar with similar failures) then its a new part I'm afraid. Those things are usually made of a soft SG iron and are practically un-weldable with any degree of success.

Bucko, What Cat machine was it? It wasn't to replace a failed swing casting was it? Justr curious as I was a Design Engineer for CAT on Backhoe loaders up until 2 months ago.

Cheers,

Phil

 

[MrFluffy]

Is that a jcb scarecrow, and if so, which model is it? Ive got the workshop manual for my 3ciii here and if it covers your model, I can scan the pages relevant to it.

 

[snowcat]

Its a ford chaps (555) i think, must get a life

 

[MrFluffy]

Your right about it not being leyland/jcb I reckon, after I posted that I thought that the position of the rear lights, the shape of the H frame and the way the slew rams were set up didnt look the same...
Is this the one you posted about ages back with the cracked kingpost?

 

[scarecrow]

It's ford 555 i also thought that was a crack when I saw the photograph and got a bit of a fright but it's only a scratch in the paint
my small little gas torch hasn't the hope of heating all that much metal so I'm presuming I need to get my hands on something a bit bigger any ideas would be helpful

I needed to move it today so had the hook back up the ramp thanks to snowcat I now have the part numbers for the seals and a diagram of how it's put together it's turning out to be a bigger job than I thought so I'm going to have the leave it to I have more time and as I said I need something to heat it as I can't see it coming out of there without some heat

 

[bucko]

cleaning the paint off the sleves will help get them back out as i bet is had a coat or two of paint in its life time

i'm neva going to moan about the E series backend a gain it looks easy compared to the ford one lol

 

[scarecrow]

I gave it a coat of paint after buying it I have only about the centimetre of paint to take off as the sleeve reduces from their up to the Ram

 

[snowcat]

I use a big ol peperpot on a mixer for that sort of heat, what sort of torch have you??