- Thread starter Kent
- Start date
Bill Edwards
Member
- Messages
- 4,959
- Location
- Scarborough, North Yorkshire
I'm curious as to the little red clamp visible in your last photo?
It looks like a corner clamp for doing work that is at 90 degrees, but can't make it out too clearly?
It looks like a corner clamp for doing work that is at 90 degrees, but can't make it out too clearly?
Kent
Member
- Messages
- 9,988
- Location
- Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
The above is the wide-beam in the panel beating thread if you look you can see the internal sledge hammer marks
Welding a boat on the water is fun, especially with a 20 stone fire watcher who keeps moving about and the wakes of passing boats all create real movement. its like welding when someone keeps giving you little shoves
anyhow some close ups first the easy one fillet in the flat the floor is 5mm- 6mm and a bit scaby the locker sides 5mm the rod 7018 ESAB 3.2mm
Welding a boat on the water is fun, especially with a 20 stone fire watcher who keeps moving about and the wakes of passing boats all create real movement. its like welding when someone keeps giving you little shoves
anyhow some close ups first the easy one fillet in the flat the floor is 5mm- 6mm and a bit scaby the locker sides 5mm the rod 7018 ESAB 3.2mm 
Anyhow got it done
Kent
Member
- Messages
- 9,988
- Location
- Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
Its a cheapo corner clamp for picture framing, good for the first tack in the top corner, then I went tack and whack down it. Silverline special about £3 not to be recommended for frames and gates or anything that basically "needs to be square" just use it as a third hand
Bill Edwards
Member
- Messages
- 4,959
- Location
- Scarborough, North Yorkshire
Ah cheers, was curious as I'm always looking at clamps to make things fit together with less difficulty!
Kent
Member
- Messages
- 9,988
- Location
- Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
Bessy do proper ones, they aint cheap though! you can also form your own and fasten the fitment on the inside of the joint with independent clamps. In the field like the above this aint very practical though as you might get perfect square and everything else isn't "its just got to look ok to the eye" and in the shop you can always clamp down to the bench if required.
Kent
Member
- Messages
- 9,988
- Location
- Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
I wish I knew what "limber" holes actually are
anyhow yes everything must drain on a boat including the deck, otherwise it fills with water like a big bucket and finally sinks. I assume you mean the lower corners I cut some out from? there are then big sort of wash- out drains in the hull sides. Water still gets into the boat in place non the less and they are fitted with a pump in the lowest part of the hull (if it cant get out it will only fill) the risk as I have seen in last years re-build of a boat sunk in a lock is it don't take a lot to over balance a narrow-boat 1m3=ton that might be a few inches deep washed to one side?
I can put you in touch with a guy who can arrange a hire, off peak isn't dear there was a shortly to retire fireman considering one with part of his lump sum the other day I seem to remember £400 ish was banded about for a whole week? always a good idea to try something
Just looked you can see the big deck washout drain on the third picture
anyhow yes everything must drain on a boat including the deck, otherwise it fills with water like a big bucket and finally sinks. I assume you mean the lower corners I cut some out from? there are then big sort of wash- out drains in the hull sides. Water still gets into the boat in place non the less and they are fitted with a pump in the lowest part of the hull (if it cant get out it will only fill) the risk as I have seen in last years re-build of a boat sunk in a lock is it don't take a lot to over balance a narrow-boat 1m3=ton that might be a few inches deep washed to one side?I can put you in touch with a guy who can arrange a hire, off peak isn't dear there was a shortly to retire fireman considering one with part of his lump sum the other day I seem to remember £400 ish was banded about for a whole week? always a good idea to try something
Just looked you can see the big deck washout drain on the third picture
Inside the accom there should be no water under the floor boards unless either it has a leak, or it is a continuous bilge that extends under the bulk heads old boats use to not seen a modern boat recently like this (last 15years) except our mates, but that is over 40 years old.
Some times the first you realise you have a leak is when water is above the floor boards, happened to me with a hire boat and some friends, one jumped off the top bunk during the night to go for a wee and landed in about 1ft or more , this was about 03:00 in the morning evacuated the boat, I had to fish (excuse the pun) around under the bed to get the wife's glasses as they were floating in their cases, got the engine running and manually bailed the cabin, bilge pump did the engine bay. The fault was a failed wet exhaust seal that had been serviced and not refitted.
As above the bilge pump will be in the engine bay.
Some times the first you realise you have a leak is when water is above the floor boards, happened to me with a hire boat and some friends, one jumped off the top bunk during the night to go for a wee and landed in about 1ft or more , this was about 03:00 in the morning evacuated the boat, I had to fish (excuse the pun) around under the bed to get the wife's glasses as they were floating in their cases, got the engine running and manually bailed the cabin, bilge pump did the engine bay. The fault was a failed wet exhaust seal that had been serviced and not refitted.
As above the bilge pump will be in the engine bay.
