Calling all you mad mountain bike types, I've noticed that it's possible to get some really excellent MTB frames on feepay for mad low prices. So, question, starting with say a real good frame, including a rear shock, how much should I budget for to build a complete bike using top components, just ball park ?
- Thread starter tigler
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A few genuine questions which will help us advise;
Why do you specifically want a rear sus bike?
What sort of riding do you intend to do?
Which 'excellent' frames have you spotted on ebay?
Regarding cost, it all depends on what you want to spend really, the sky's the limit but for general everyday riding there's no need to go balls out and spend a fortune on a groupset as you'll never see the benefit over say a level or even two down.
Why do you specifically want a rear sus bike?
What sort of riding do you intend to do?
Which 'excellent' frames have you spotted on ebay?
Regarding cost, it all depends on what you want to spend really, the sky's the limit but for general everyday riding there's no need to go balls out and spend a fortune on a groupset as you'll never see the benefit over say a level or even two down.
It will be all around use, some road, some trail but no hard or extreme off road. More tracks and trails and roads to get to them.
Fancied a full suspension bike for comfort off road, I already have a Cannondale rigid and although it handles very well I find it harsh.
Frame I have an eye on is a Cove G Spot. Although I hear what you say about over spending but at some of the prices I've seen high end components go for I just fancied indulging a bit !
Fancied a full suspension bike for comfort off road, I already have a Cannondale rigid and although it handles very well I find it harsh.
Frame I have an eye on is a Cove G Spot. Although I hear what you say about over spending but at some of the prices I've seen high end components go for I just fancied indulging a bit !
Personally i'd say a Cove G-spot is a bit freeridey/downhilly for no 'hard or extreme off road'. They're big heavy ol'd buses
Top components... indulging a bit (but not too much)... ~ 2 grand new unless you can find a deal on last years kit. £5 - 700 of that will go on forks
Top components... indulging a bit (but not too much)... ~ 2 grand new unless you can find a deal on last years kit. £5 - 700 of that will go on forks
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Nice looking frame! 
If you can find one you can pick up a full XT disc groupset for about £450-500.
Half-decent set of wheels including tyres/tubes etc. about £250
Other bits, BB, seat, post, bars, HS, stem, grips etc. around £180
That's all new prices of course, you ought to be able to find some good used kit to bolt onto it and save some serious money.
Edit: Doh, forgot to add forks!!
If you can find one you can pick up a full XT disc groupset for about £450-500.
Half-decent set of wheels including tyres/tubes etc. about £250
Other bits, BB, seat, post, bars, HS, stem, grips etc. around £180
That's all new prices of course, you ought to be able to find some good used kit to bolt onto it and save some serious money.
Edit: Doh, forgot to add forks!!
Nice looking frame!
You've been having a nose then ?!
Thanks guys, gives me something to allow budget for.
I had a go on a mates G Spot and thought it was brilliant, took anything I could throw at it !! Not the lightest, agreed, but neither is my old Cannondale !
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Might put a bid on it!You've been having a nose then ?!
Thanks guys, gives me something to allow budget for.
I had a go on a mates G Spot and though it was brilliant, took anything I could throw at it !! Not the lightest, agreed, but neither is my old Cannondale !
Just kidding of course, I've no use for it, I'm after a decent road frame.
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What I've also noticed is people selling brand new bikes 'only ridden home from the shop'.
They've quite obviously bought them on the CTW scheme and are selling them on for quick cash.
Not sure about the legalities if buying one, for all intents and purposes you'd be buying stolen property as the bike belongs to their empoyer until the final payment is made.
Not sure whether an employer would pursue it but they'd be within their rights to.
There ought to be (and may be) a clause in the CTW contract which says that if your employment is terminated before the final payment is made, the company will deduct any monies owed from your severance pay.
They've quite obviously bought them on the CTW scheme and are selling them on for quick cash.
Not sure about the legalities if buying one, for all intents and purposes you'd be buying stolen property as the bike belongs to their empoyer until the final payment is made.
Not sure whether an employer would pursue it but they'd be within their rights to.
There ought to be (and may be) a clause in the CTW contract which says that if your employment is terminated before the final payment is made, the company will deduct any monies owed from your severance pay.
stuvy
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they are a nice bike shox i had one a few years back.
tigler have a look on bike radar forum and see if theres a cove forum you might be able to get some good second hand bits for it.
The shops i typically use are merlin cycles, chain reaction cycles and occasionally wiggle
tigler have a look on bike radar forum and see if theres a cove forum you might be able to get some good second hand bits for it.
The shops i typically use are merlin cycles, chain reaction cycles and occasionally wiggle
chunkolini
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Bikes?
I would always buy mass produced Mountain Bikes, I go for a decent frame and wheels and middle range components, say LX and never buy anything none Shimano.
Nice XTR gear is lovely but seeing a mega expensive derailleur wrapped around a stick would make me cry.
Current Mountain bike a Marin Mount Vision, paid £600 bought from a rich guy who thought you do not need to pedal so never used it. Paid £2600 and put about 80 miles on it in two years.
Best value for money on new stuff is buying complete bikes. Ideally last years in the colour nobody liked.
Full sus is a great thing on light trails, but 4" travel is plenty unless you go mad. I do mad and am happy with it. Cannondales? Harsh? vicious more like.
Tigler if you fancy a go you are welcome to come over and have a hack round the farm.
Stuvy you are a rotten swine!!!
Mentioning Merlin Cycles you idiot.
That just cost me £120.00 dont do it again.
The wheels on my ancient Kona are tired, in fact I just checked two busted spokes on the back wheel and two that flap about. Ho Hum. New wheels it is Merlin are the best place to buy wheels and I had forgotten their name.
Otherwise Chain Reaction are boys to buy bike stuff from.
Tigler get out there. Kill Kill.
In fact if you get a bike I will take you out round Ross and get you killed.
I would always buy mass produced Mountain Bikes, I go for a decent frame and wheels and middle range components, say LX and never buy anything none Shimano.
Nice XTR gear is lovely but seeing a mega expensive derailleur wrapped around a stick would make me cry.
Current Mountain bike a Marin Mount Vision, paid £600 bought from a rich guy who thought you do not need to pedal so never used it. Paid £2600 and put about 80 miles on it in two years.
Best value for money on new stuff is buying complete bikes. Ideally last years in the colour nobody liked.
Full sus is a great thing on light trails, but 4" travel is plenty unless you go mad. I do mad and am happy with it. Cannondales? Harsh? vicious more like.
Tigler if you fancy a go you are welcome to come over and have a hack round the farm.
Stuvy you are a rotten swine!!!
Mentioning Merlin Cycles you idiot.
That just cost me £120.00 dont do it again.
The wheels on my ancient Kona are tired, in fact I just checked two busted spokes on the back wheel and two that flap about. Ho Hum. New wheels it is Merlin are the best place to buy wheels and I had forgotten their name.
Otherwise Chain Reaction are boys to buy bike stuff from.
Tigler get out there. Kill Kill.
In fact if you get a bike I will take you out round Ross and get you killed.
chunkolini
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A good rule of thumb for sizing mountain bike frames is half your inseam minus your IQ.
Best bet is go to a decent bike shop and try a few for size, a lot of companies these days use small medium and large.
Best bet is go to a decent bike shop and try a few for size, a lot of companies these days use small medium and large.
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That sounds a bit small to me but frame sizes seem to be all over the place at the mo, I'm 5'11" and have a 20"...oo errrr!
'Bout time you learnt to build wheels then isn't it Chunko'?
Frame sizing... everyone measures 'em differently (to centre of top tube or top of seat tube etc. BB height alters things too), find a Cove dealer and, as said, try a few. If you're lucky you'll get a sales kiddy with a 'sense of humour' that checks you've got enough clearance for your plums by picking up the front of the bike while you're straddling it (officially to simulate stopping on a steep climb to wait for lungs to catch up)
Oh, and don't stare at that... tree/big rock that's waiting to pounce etc
Frame sizing... everyone measures 'em differently (to centre of top tube or top of seat tube etc. BB height alters things too), find a Cove dealer and, as said, try a few. If you're lucky you'll get a sales kiddy with a 'sense of humour' that checks you've got enough clearance for your plums by picking up the front of the bike while you're straddling it (officially to simulate stopping on a steep climb to wait for lungs to catch up)
Oh, and don't stare at that... tree/big rock that's waiting to pounce etc
