Advice about jigsaws sought - tool, blade or user?

[skotl]

A few years ago I bought what was expensive for me - a dewalt DW341K jigsaw. From memory it was around £120 new.

DeWalt DW341K-LX 85mm 550W COMPACT TOP HANDLE JIGSAW 110V DW341K-LX | Cromwell Tools

This was an upgrade from a no-name B&Q £20 special and I expected to love it but, to be honest, I've hated it ever since I got it.

The blades weave all over the place and I can't get an accurate cut forward (horizontally) or vertically. Even on an inch thick piece of wood, the angle of cut can be 15 or 20 degrees off, vertically.
(yes - I have ensured that the plate is perpendicular to the blade)

So I assumed it was either a cruppy model, or maybe I picked up a duffer, and have started looking for a replacement.
But I keep coming across wisdom that suggests that the blade is much more important than the saw, and that decent blades in a £20 saw will perform better than cheap blades in a £200 saw.

Is that correct? I could (and should!), of course, just go buy some decent blades and try but thought I'd solicit experience from m'learned colleagues before chucking this one and buying a new saw, only to be disappointed again.

 

[Ashley Burton]

Decent blades can make a difference, But using the correct tpi & technique also helps

 

[James1979]

I had the battery version of that and it was great. I just used whatever blades, I think the last lot i bought were silverline as the wood was contaminated. Decent blades are better though

Silly question but have you adjusted the shoe so the idler wheel is supporting the blade?

 

[frank horton]

treated myself to a Festool....after my industrial Makita burnt out....def a better machine but worth the extra money.....????
it was about £250, 20 years ago...still going strong and a dream to use......

 

[daleyd]

I’ve found technique is at least as important as the tool. Make sure you get right over the top with your shoulder (if possible) otherwise you’ll have a tendency to drag it to one side or the other. Don’t force the blade and really concentrate on keeping it inline.

If you find yourself starting to wander offline “turn” the saw back to get it online rather than pushing sideways which is where I’ve seen some people going wrong - this tends to be where the blade gets skewed (at least in my experience)

 

[daedalusminos]

As @daleyd said, mostly technique... Don't apply side pressure or force the blade. As a test try running the shoe along a straight edge clamped to the workpiece. This will eliminate side pressure and allow you to vary cutting pressure. Of course a blunt blade will mean you tend to apply too much force and twist the blade off course. Same applies to incorrect TPI for material.

 

[Dee J]

Always found jigsaws suitable for a really limited range of jobs. Best for manufactured material that has no grain, and for cutting curves - so inset sink holes in kitchen worktops. They're absolutely the worst tool for straight rip cuts in thick, course-grained softwood. Pendulum action and a really sharp low tpi blade can improve straight cuts. But beyond the pendulum action, there's not much the machine can do to improve the cut - it literally just pushes and pulls the blade and a thin blade will follow grain.

 

[Hitch]

Yes, a good amount is the blade imo.
A dull blade will wander and attempt to take the easy path.

I use Bosch bladed mostly, in a Hitachi saw, cant remember the number of them. Dont have any issues with it.
Curves that are too tight for the blade will cause this though. The little narrow blades are good for tighter curves.

Not the right tool for long straight cuts really, but I do use it now and again, but tend to allow room to run a hand plane along to flatten any high spots if its important.

I'll see what number the blades are when I'm in the shed later.

 

[northwest]

I have the cordless version of that too and as @Dee J says above, they are for a limited range of tasks. Having said that I am taking it this morning to cut some lengths of electrical trunking.
If you are having problems with yours there is something adrift with it as they are pretty simple machines.

 

[Hitch]

These are the 2 types of blades I tend to use mostly. An old blade out of the box, and it cuts 55mm thick oak virtually square.
Has your saw got a guide roller that does the pendulum action?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Blades play a big part as does technique.

Don't watch the blade. Follow the line just in front of the shoe.

Always going to get an angled cut on curves. Nature of the beast.

Allow for it either with a cut short of the line or by sanding/trimming true later.


For worktop cutouts I plunge with my tracksaw from the rear
Flip the top and mask the 4 corners.
Extend the cut lines then use the end of a silicone tube to set my radius and use a downcutter from the top.

 

[zx9]

I had the battery version of that and it was great. I just used whatever blades, I think the last lot i bought were silverline as the wood was contaminated. Decent blades are better though

Silly question but have you adjusted the shoe so the idler wheel is supporting the blade?

As above make sure the idler wheel is in contact with the back of the blade and try it again with the pendulum motion set to a lower level. The best jigsaw I have is a very old Wickes 230V corded, all metal construction and can be slowed down to an almost stationary blade great machine but a no go on site for site use I have a 18V Bosch, uses the same battery packs as my drills and works well but not as re assuring to use as the old Wickes one. Usually the Bosch only wanders if I have left the blade in the machine travelling to site, despite it been in it's fitted case the blade appears to get slightly bent and slightly bent is all it takes to put it out of alignment.

 

[tom2207]

idler wheel may be loose or badly worn , it should be a snug fit and guide the back of the blade , simple fix and you wont look back . and practice dont watch the blade on a line , watch the front of the sole plate and you will get better straight cuts ,,, bit different for curves of course. Straight blades are a must have too.

 

[dobbslc]

I've found you need to 'steer from the rear' with jigsaws as it seems to cut more accurately this way. Cutting thick material will always let the blade run off a bit, I don't think they really ment for this.
You can get down cut blades for giving a neat cut line on finished surfaces but make sure you hold it down very well before you pull the trigger!!!
Bosch blades seem to be very good compared to some of the cheap ones I've used.

 

[James1979]

Bosch always seemed the best on sheet metal.

 

[Alan Reynolds]

I was asked to do some worktops and they supplied the tools. The jigsaw was a brand new Costco jobbie, absolutely impossible to keep in a straight line and it veered off horizontally and vertically at an alarming rate. I went and got the donated Bosch pendulum jigsaw that had belonged to my neighbour's father. The difference was night and day. Blade speed, material type and blade type are all factors. Letting the blade do the work and not forcing the blade is key.

 

[gaz1]

Always found jigsaws suitable for a really limited range of jobs. Best for manufactured material that has no grain, and for cutting curves - so inset sink holes in kitchen worktops. They're absolutely the worst tool for straight rip cuts in thick, course-grained softwood. Pendulum action and a really sharp low tpi blade can improve straight cuts. But beyond the pendulum action, there's not much the machine can do to improve the cut - it literally just pushes and pulls the blade and a thin blade will follow grain.

you just hit the nail right on the head with your comment

jigsaws arnt meant for deep materials its why we use a circular saw to do the most cuts thats straight and finish off using a wood saw

jigsaws are really meant for thin materials but people tend to use them for thicker material

people do use them as scroll saws like this

 

[Kayos]

I only use them for cutting shapes, circular for straight cuts, recip to hack stuff out or when you can't get the circular in

 

[TechnicAl]

This is mine....again had it for years....it cuts perfect square cuts in 44mm thick timber.......again still using the blades that came with it, perhaps 15 years ago...

They seem to be the tool of choice amongst the pros.......every joiner / carpenter / chippy seems to have one

Bosch GST2000 Orbital Action Jigsaw (240V)

Bosch GST2000 orbital action jigsaw, complete with dust extraction adaptor and carry case. Available in 110 or 240 volts. Bosch invented the jigsaw and have b

www.toolstop.co.uk

 

[skotl]

That's great - thanks all. You answered my main questions which seems to be that a) the tool should be good enough assuming it's set up correctly, b) technique is important and c) blades are somewhat important.

So I'll persevere by triple checking the guides and rollers, buy a decent set of blades and give it another go. Saves spending £150 on a replacement and discovering it makes no difference!

Cheers all