- Thread starter Can'tWeld
- Start date
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,369
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
bet the crows and pigeons will love itI've just made my first thing today; a base for a bird bath!
Just thought I'd post the image for you to all laugh at and give me some idea of how I can improve my technique (apart from practice, practice, practice...)
best bet is get some scrap metal and run a few welds at different amperages then when u improve start putting things 2gether Hello BS,
welding at the base of an angle is harder than a butt and needs a few more amps. Also try and start the arc on both faces simultaneously. If you find the weld has only taken on one piece, get your grinder and grind the first weld away. You can't build on top of it. Relatively small diameters also need quite a bit of arc manipulation, or rather arm movement as you try and maintain a constant rod angle while going round a corner.
Alec
welding at the base of an angle is harder than a butt and needs a few more amps. Also try and start the arc on both faces simultaneously. If you find the weld has only taken on one piece, get your grinder and grind the first weld away. You can't build on top of it. Relatively small diameters also need quite a bit of arc manipulation, or rather arm movement as you try and maintain a constant rod angle while going round a corner.
Alec
- Messages
- 14,734
- Location
- UK
Once you have laid a bad weld with MMA which is full of slag inclusions, it is almost impossible to try to lay a decent weld over it. The slag from the first weld will pass through the latest weld and contaminate it. (Use of cellulosic rods will get it, but they don't give a particularly nice weld and are quite a fierce rod).
Looks like you need more amps, and a bit more practice. Often helps to lay the piece on its side so you are welding downhand and not trying to cope with the weld trying to sag if its welded in the position in your photograph.
As the others have said, try on some scrap first. Keep at it!
You don't say which rods you are using, amps etc?
Looks like you need more amps, and a bit more practice. Often helps to lay the piece on its side so you are welding downhand and not trying to cope with the weld trying to sag if its welded in the position in your photograph.
As the others have said, try on some scrap first. Keep at it!
You don't say which rods you are using, amps etc?
- Messages
- 14,734
- Location
- UK
Sparkey
Bouncing along!
- Messages
- 5,156
- Location
- France
How big are the birds round your way?
uhm.......
huge...ps: no offense ok! only kidding!
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,369
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
sum of the birds that sit on tables round our way are 16 stoneHow big are the birds round your way?
Sparkey
Bouncing along!
- Messages
- 5,156
- Location
- France
sum of the birds that sit on tables round our way are 16 stone
lol!
Sorry to trash your thread here mate,
but yes, Paulie had some sound advice: practise on some scrap before you start on a project! It will help you get a feel for the welder, settings etc!And did you remove the paint before welding? it's much easier to weld then!
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
- Messages
- 9,780
- Location
- Bedford UK
We've got a tutorial for arc welding on the site that might be worth a look.
It's not something you'll pick up instantly. It's like riding a bike - easy when you know how but if it's the first time you've seen a bike you will fall off. Try going at it for an afternoon with the tutorial and you should get somewhat closer.
As they say above practice on some coupons (bits of metal cut up just for the purpose of practising). Post some pictures of how you get on and we can point you in the right direction. Too much going on with the photos you have posted so it's tricky to advise.
It's not something you'll pick up instantly. It's like riding a bike - easy when you know how but if it's the first time you've seen a bike you will fall off. Try going at it for an afternoon with the tutorial and you should get somewhat closer.
As they say above practice on some coupons (bits of metal cut up just for the purpose of practising). Post some pictures of how you get on and we can point you in the right direction. Too much going on with the photos you have posted so it's tricky to advise.
Thanks for the tips everyone. I was using 2.5 rods at about 100a but I'm not sure if 2.0mm might be the way to go for that thickness.
I'll grind it down and reweld the whole thing soon; I think part of the problem might be that the bottom bits aren't quite straight! I'll keep this thread updated with my progress anyway.
Cheers
I'll grind it down and reweld the whole thing soon; I think part of the problem might be that the bottom bits aren't quite straight! I'll keep this thread updated with my progress anyway.
Cheers
Benthosboy
One of life's pillocks!
- Messages
- 133
I'm surprised no-one's mentioned about getting in a comfortable position 
.
Undoubtedly there will be times when you just cannot get comfy for love nor money but if you can, then do! If you can, position the job at a comfortable working height, whatever that might be for you. If that's standing height, make sure you're stood comfy. If it's lower, pull up a stool. I worked with a welder back in Sheffield in the late '80's and even though he was a 100% wazzock, he could weld. He always used to take his time getting sorted before he put a run down and after I watched him welding an overhead crane wheel with TWO stick rods, one in each hand, I fully appreciated his practices.
Call me Captain Geek if you wish but I'm a great student of ergonomics. Whatever I'm doing, I try and get comfy and make sure that everything is in the best place.
Martyn.
. Undoubtedly there will be times when you just cannot get comfy for love nor money but if you can, then do! If you can, position the job at a comfortable working height, whatever that might be for you. If that's standing height, make sure you're stood comfy. If it's lower, pull up a stool. I worked with a welder back in Sheffield in the late '80's and even though he was a 100% wazzock, he could weld. He always used to take his time getting sorted before he put a run down and after I watched him welding an overhead crane wheel with TWO stick rods, one in each hand, I fully appreciated his practices.
Call me Captain Geek if you wish
but I'm a great student of ergonomics. Whatever I'm doing, I try and get comfy and make sure that everything is in the best place. Martyn.
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,369
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
also the choice of rods makes a big diffrence some strike up better than others
Sparkey
Bouncing along!
- Messages
- 5,156
- Location
- France
I'm surprised no-one's mentioned about getting in a comfortable position
Undoubtedly there will be times when you just cannot get comfy for love nor money but if you can, then do! If you can, position the job at a comfortable working height, whatever that might be for you. If that's standing height, make sure you're stood comfy. If it's lower, pull up a stool. I worked with a welder back in Sheffield in the late '80's and even though he was a 100% wazzock, he could weld. He always used to take his time getting sorted before he put a run down and after I watched him welding an overhead crane wheel with TWO stick rods, one in each hand, I fully appreciated his practices.
Call me Captain Geek if you wish
Martyn.
Good point Martyn! but he needs to get comfortable with his welder first, everyone who learnt how to weld knows that at first you will be very cramped up! You're so concentrated that you forget about all the rest!
But it'll come, you will soon relax and get into more comfy positions!
I remember when i started welding....i once dropped my torch in the middle of a 2 m weld because i got a cramp in my hand! lol
The guy who was teaching me laughed his hiney off!
rog8811
Member
- Messages
- 65
Unless I missed it you didn't list all of the equipment used, the thing that improved my welding instantly was an auto darkening head mask.
Giving me the ability to steady the rod with my free hand which meant I could control full length rods (shakey hands) and not losing sight of the workpiece when striking up.
Regards rog8811
Giving me the ability to steady the rod with my free hand which meant I could control full length rods (shakey hands) and not losing sight of the workpiece when striking up.
Regards rog8811
I have an auto-darkening mask (think it's a SifLite, use it for grinding too)- Best investment I've made so far. Before with the flip-up mask I struggled to lay a bead of any sort!
Also working with an Argos angle grinder and a SIP Weldmate T140P. All budget stuff but seems to work pretty well, think the problem isn't with the gear so much as the idiot using it.
I'm gonna have another go this weekend. Thinking that the legs should all be angled downwards at a 30 degree or so angle as well, to help stability. I've cut it up and ground the welds off ready for another try.
Also, hi Rog, I think you frequent another forum I go on too
Also working with an Argos angle grinder and a SIP Weldmate T140P. All budget stuff but seems to work pretty well, think the problem isn't with the gear so much as the idiot using it.
I'm gonna have another go this weekend. Thinking that the legs should all be angled downwards at a 30 degree or so angle as well, to help stability. I've cut it up and ground the welds off ready for another try.
Also, hi Rog, I think you frequent another forum I go on too
The thing with the 140p is the open circuit voltage is fairly low, making a strike more difficult, allthough its possible to get good welds.
Try turning the whole thing so that the twisted upright bit is at 45 degrees, so that your welding directly down to the joint.
I usually use about 80 amps for 2.5mm, the adjustment on your set may not be all that accurate (respectfull comment).
Also might be worth getting some quality rods, cheapo's are hard work, I use easystrike and they usually give me good results.
Try turning the whole thing so that the twisted upright bit is at 45 degrees, so that your welding directly down to the joint.
I usually use about 80 amps for 2.5mm, the adjustment on your set may not be all that accurate (respectfull comment).
Also might be worth getting some quality rods, cheapo's are hard work, I use easystrike and they usually give me good results.
