A few 'refresher' questions about cellulose paint.

[series2]

I'm spraying a new design front end for my truck, and was just wondering on the current thinking for flatting the primer prior to top coat. Top coat is cellulose (I don't have the facilities to use 2k)

Having previously had issues with water blisters under the top coat (not air supply related) i opted to dry flat the primer. I think this was actually easier than wet flatting, and far less messy. Is there any good reason not to dry flat?

I also need to mask off after the top coat in order to apply stonechip protector, as I don't want colour over the stonechip. What would be a sensible length of time to leave the paint before using masking tape?

 

[richie00boy]

Some people recommend dry flatting primer now. Its only less messy if you have a vacuum!

Should be ok to mask up next day. Use a decent low tack tape such as 3M type 3434.

 

[the snooper]

I'm spraying a new design front end for my truck, and was just wondering on the current thinking for flatting the primer prior to top coat. Top coat is cellulose (I don't have the facilities to use 2k)

Having previously had issues with water blisters under the top coat (not air supply related) i opted to dry flat the primer. I think this was actually easier than wet flatting, and far less messy. Is there any good reason not to dry flat?

I also need to mask off after the top coat in order to apply stonechip protector, as I don't want colour over the stonechip. What would be a sensible length of time to leave the paint before using masking tape?

If the stonechip will be visible I don't think I'd leave it bare I can imagine it to hold dirt and stay that way you can also thin the stone chip and apply with a spray gun if you want it smooth