3DLAC removal from prints - any tips?

[Beanwood]

As per thread title really. I printed some PETG and the bed MAY have been slightly too warm. I now have a number of items with what looks like a white residue on them - which I ASSUME to be glue.
Does anyone have a foolproof way of removing the residue? I'm currently trying hot water and washing up liquid in the small ultrasonic, followed by scrubbing, which has some success, but is there a better way?

 

[Kram]

How warm is too warm?

With an 80c bed, petg sticks very nicely to smooth or textured PEI plates with no glue required.

Liight sanding is possibly best way.

A wipe with acetone shouldnt touch petg but might remove the 3dlac.

 

[m_c]

Soapy water or alcohol.

3DLAC is essentially non-scented hairspray, and PETG is one of the most chemical resistant materials (most plastic containers are PET, and the G just makes it easier to print), so you're far more likely to damage the PETG from being mechanically too aggressive, than from damaging it from normal cleaning chemicals.

@Kram PETG doesn't always stick well enough to print beds to avoid problems. I always use it on taller/narrower parts, as a layer costs pennies, lasts for several prints, and it greatly reduces the risk of taller parts failing during printing.
Flatter well supported parts it doesn't have much benefit, although it can help reduce corners lifting, up until the point the parts lift the magnetic sheet at corners (managed that with a problematic part on my Voron, and ended up writing off the build plate as the part stuck so well, although I can't remember what glue that was, as it wasn't 3DLAC. Might have been a cheap glue stick that happened to be nearby at the time..).

 

[Screwdriver]

I use IPA for delicate cleaning.

 

[ajlelectronics]

A tip for a print that will not release is to put it in the freezer overnight.

 

[Kram]

Well I remembered yesterday after printing with orange petg, that the 70c default is not enough!
On the P2S you have to use a custom profile to get 80c and with a different brand I didnt use the Esun profile, that I normally use.

Part survived, very minor lifting.

@Kram PETG doesn't always stick well enough to print beds to avoid problems. I always use it on taller/narrower parts, as a layer costs pennies, lasts for several prints, and it greatly reduces the risk of taller parts failing during printing.
Flatter well supported parts it doesn't have much benefit, although it can help reduce corners lifting, up until the point the parts lift the magnetic sheet at corners (managed that with a problematic part on my Voron, and ended up writing off the build plate as the part stuck so well, although I can't remember what glue that was, as it wasn't 3DLAC. Might have been a cheap glue stick that happened to be nearby at the time..).

I just use a brim without a gap.
Easier to clean up the part than scrubbing the bed

 

[Onoff]

@Kram PETG doesn't always stick well enough to print beds to avoid problems.

Don't use any adhesion promoter here on the X1C for PETG.

 

[m_c]

Don't use any adhesion promoter here on the X1C for PETG.

It depends on what you're printing.
The most prolific bits I print, are around 20-25mm high, have a contact point around 7-9mm diameter with the plate, with some going out to 15mm diameter, and I want minimal clean up.
3DLAC is the difference between 60-70% failure, and 99% success.

 

[MattF]

Well I remembered yesterday after printing with orange petg, that the 70c default is not enough!

Seems to be more a build plate issue than owt else, with how stuff sticks. Some are fine at 70°, with PETG, some are better at 80°.

Different brands act differently too. On the Zero, Sunlu is fine at 70°, Geeetech requires 80°.

 

[Bladevane]

I generally start with the filament manufacturer’s specifications on the basis that they know what they’re doing and have tested their product. I’ve also found that 1st layer speed is important - too fast and the filament just will not adhere to the bed, no matter how clean and sticky it is.