- Thread starter Badbusboy
- Start date
You'll find it tricky to learn with that machine.
They are a scratch-start set which means you have to strike it like a match to establish the arc, however, unlike other scratch machines which have an on/off gas control knob, that model relies on a press down button on the torch for the gas control. Aside from the torch handle being a bit bulky, you have to press down quite hard on the trigger to get gas flow & your finger soon gets a bit numb
You need a good steady hand with TIG & it doesn't help with a clumsy torch.
weldequip
They are a scratch-start set which means you have to strike it like a match to establish the arc, however, unlike other scratch machines which have an on/off gas control knob, that model relies on a press down button on the torch for the gas control. Aside from the torch handle being a bit bulky, you have to press down quite hard on the trigger to get gas flow & your finger soon gets a bit numb
You need a good steady hand with TIG & it doesn't help with a clumsy torch.
weldequip
I've still got my Pocket Pulse 100
Everything you said holds true, my hand tends to cramp up due to having to grip the torch tightly.
On the other hand, it taught me how to tig weld and it has a pulse function which works ok on thin stuff. If it's cheap enough, it will get the job done!
Cheers, Mick.
Everything you said holds true, my hand tends to cramp up due to having to grip the torch tightly.
On the other hand, it taught me how to tig weld and it has a pulse function which works ok on thin stuff. If it's cheap enough, it will get the job done!
Cheers, Mick.
Me too
I got a second hand fleabay TIG too. It's an Awelco Arc-lite 100. It's a tiny little thing, scratch start with current from 10 to 100A, and it came with torch (and stick holder), earth lead, various rods and a disposable bottle.
I have basically the same questions as Badbusboy.
I need to get a helmet before I use it - will a normal inexpensive 9-13 auto-darkening helmet react to a DC TIG arc if it's only 25A?
Cheers
Duncan
I got a second hand fleabay TIG too. It's an Awelco Arc-lite 100. It's a tiny little thing, scratch start with current from 10 to 100A, and it came with torch (and stick holder), earth lead, various rods and a disposable bottle.
I have basically the same questions as Badbusboy.
I need to get a helmet before I use it - will a normal inexpensive 9-13 auto-darkening helmet react to a DC TIG arc if it's only 25A?
Cheers
Duncan
I bought a used Pocket Pulse on eBay myself a little over a month ago - on a bit of a whim! I spent a fair amount what with fresh tungstens, shroud (nozzles?), new earth clamp, but at least I now know the machine is in the best possible shape it can be. (ish)
I haven't had any issues with hand cramp - probably doing it wrong
I'm happy overall. I find it's best to start on on 2-3mm mild steel, I've had some craking good weld on that with loads of penetration - far more than I've seen with my MIG. I've struggled welding the thinner materials - less than 1.5mm, it'll take more patience I guess...
It's a bugger if you either touch the pool mid weld or accidentally dab the filler on the electrode - all stop and change the electrode - arrgghh! You'll quickliy realise to get a pack of ten electrodes and grind them all to a point before you begin! Saves dropping evertything to go and sharpen it again!!
I've been liking using 1.6mm Gold electrodes, I haven't found the Red (radio active) ones very durable. That may not be a sound statement mind you - I'll probably say the opposite in the weeks to come.
Good experience if nothing else!!
I haven't had any issues with hand cramp - probably doing it wrong
I'm happy overall. I find it's best to start on on 2-3mm mild steel, I've had some craking good weld on that with loads of penetration - far more than I've seen with my MIG. I've struggled welding the thinner materials - less than 1.5mm, it'll take more patience I guess...
It's a bugger if you either touch the pool mid weld or accidentally dab the filler on the electrode - all stop and change the electrode - arrgghh! You'll quickliy realise to get a pack of ten electrodes and grind them all to a point before you begin! Saves dropping evertything to go and sharpen it again!!
I've been liking using 1.6mm Gold electrodes, I haven't found the Red (radio active) ones very durable. That may not be a sound statement mind you - I'll probably say the opposite in the weeks to come.
Good experience if nothing else!!
advice
Thanks to all who have commented
- mick, duncan, infront, weldy.
I washoping weldy to be a little more positive, especially as i bought my 235 from him recently and plan to get a 215 and an acdc tig from him! (Lorch/portamig/etc).
It feels like its well mde i got it for £85. Copperwound transformer, etc?
I shall try first with gold 1.5 electrodes as suggested by infront.
I'll post any success - is it ok for stainless i guess?
cheers
Thanks to all who have commented
- mick, duncan, infront, weldy.I washoping weldy to be a little more positive, especially as i bought my 235 from him recently and plan to get a 215 and an acdc tig from him! (Lorch/portamig/etc).
It feels like its well mde i got it for £85. Copperwound transformer, etc?
I shall try first with gold 1.5 electrodes as suggested by infront.
I'll post any success - is it ok for stainless i guess?
cheers
Hey Mr. Weldequip
Are there torches that are easier to use that can be fitted to a Pocket Pulse 100?
Or is it because it has to have the gas valve in the torch that makes it awkward?
I think my problems with cramp may be due to my tig gloves being a bit small for my hands.
Cheers, Mick.
Are there torches that are easier to use that can be fitted to a Pocket Pulse 100?
Or is it because it has to have the gas valve in the torch that makes it awkward?
I think my problems with cramp may be due to my tig gloves being a bit small for my hands.
Cheers, Mick.
The gas valve is in the torch handle on that model yes...that's why it's relatively bulky & you have to press the trigger quite hard. Not aware of any other torch that will fit (without major mods) & sure larger gloves wouldn't solve the cramp. On more modern scratch-start machines the gas valve is inside the machine & you simply have an On/Off gas control knob on the 'pencil' torch (much slimmer & neater) that you turn on before you start welding, and off when you've finished...no need to blead all the blood from your finger tip keeping it pressed down on the trigger!
The way to go really is HF (High Frequency) start, where you press the torch trigger & the gas & arc is started automatically...no scratching required, (or Tungsten contamination of the workpiece). Pricey though, in comparison to scratch-start sets. Pro's wouldn't consider anything else but, as always, it's horses for courses...depends what you want to do with it.
weldequip
The way to go really is HF (High Frequency) start, where you press the torch trigger & the gas & arc is started automatically...no scratching required, (or Tungsten contamination of the workpiece). Pricey though, in comparison to scratch-start sets. Pro's wouldn't consider anything else but, as always, it's horses for courses...depends what you want to do with it.
weldequip
irondarren
Member
- Messages
- 2,583
True what weldequip says, i have somewhere a scratch torch for my pico 140. Had a turn on turn off gas valve, scratch start. I must admit TIG wasnt my favourite form of welding. Different now, with my IFL. hf start etc, even better with foot pedal.
