2K paint question

[Julian_P]

I've been using Max Meyer 2K Selemix paint for years now and find it very good to work with. It's an Industrial/Commercial paint and works out at about £20/litre.

The other day I needed some JCC Marine Blue for my old Landrover and my paint factors said they couldn't do it in Selemix and it would need to be mixed in Max Meyers automotive 2K at about treble the price

Selemix is only available in standard colours like RAL seemingly.

Does anyone know why this is the case? Could you not just use the Selemix base stuff (whatever it's called) and shove the required tinters in it (the tinters are the same) and get the result?

Julian.

 

[norsa]

sounds half arsed to me unless they dont stock the required tinters for a less popular product maybe.

 

[steveo3002]

prob a basic range of tinters and no formula for your colour ...some places might help if you ring up head office tech support

 

[Julian_P]

prob a basic range of tinters and no formula for your colour ...some places might help if you ring up head office tech support

I seem to remember that's what they said. But why can they not use the tinters and formula for the landrover JCC marine blue and stick them into the Selemix paint?

Julian.

 

[samfish]

My local place were initially difficult about mixing selemix products to anything other than RAL codes, but they can do it when pushed. I am not sure how accurate they will be as I am not using it to blend/match.

I have been using the DTM Selemix 2K for a few things, and it is pretty good for industrial stuff (direct to metal). I have painted a few very high end picture frames with it - satin white.
Quite hard wearing and can be ordered in a range of satin finishes.
The satin/matt finishes come out very well if you thin the final coat a bit more - it make a very smooth/fine satin.

Expensive 2K does give a great finish though, it just seems to flow out better and is just easier to get a full gloss on complicated items - for some reason.

 

[Julian_P]

I have been using the DTM Selemix 2K for a few things, and it is pretty good for industrial stuff (direct to metal) .

I've had some very good results with it, painted on top of celly primer in the old fashioned way.

I found a few things (that you probably already know!):

1. You don't want much heat around, it seems to work better in cooler air, so I use the heat later on to harden it quicker.

2. A good gun finish is easy to get but needs careful attention to thinners. 10% thinners is the minimum, but if you're brave and go up to about 15% max then the paint really flows out beautifully level.

3. The suppliers told me not to be tempted with celly thinners, always use the 2K universal thinners.

I've just sprayed a vintage moped frame with it and a number of people have commented on how good it looks, so I'm avoiding the expensive stuff for now!

Julian