230mm grinder

[BrokenBiker]

going to buy a 230mm grinder soon, just a cheap one for those on offs that need either a bit of grunt are just easier with a 230mm rather than a 115mm.

anyway, apart from the obvious metal and stone grinding discs, are there any other discs that can be had, for instance for cutting wood, or something like a tct blade

 

[Parm]

I've seen a chainsaw type arrangement blade thingy for the smaller machines. Typically used for very rapid wood removal and a favorite amongst wood carvers. Wouldn't want anything like this on a larger machine as the kick back would be immense if things went wrong.

I only have metal and stone abrasive discs as well as the metal blade for stone, all seem to do whatever I ask of them without too much of a fuss

 

[BrokenBiker]

on of its first jobs will be some tree roots, cant get a recip saw in broperly and the figsaw is too small, the amount of roots that need clearing would take about 3 days with a hand saw.

what disc would you suggest for that?

 

[Welderpaul]

what disc would you suggest for that?

Not a 9" grinder

Metal cutting/grinding discs and a diamond disc for cutting stone. That's it.

 

[Parm]

If I was doing my day job as a H&S consultant I wouldn't recommend any disc as the risk of the disc spinning at 20,000 rpm plus kicking up dust, dirt and stones from the soil is just to great. You might have all PPE. But ejected material can travel quite a significant distance.

Now, being a realist and having done this my self, make sure the ground around the roots is clear and no risk of ejected/flying material. PPE to the gunnels and then just use an abrasive disc for stone or metal. If the roots are damp it may clog a little but just clean the disc regularly with a wire brush. Also likely to be a lot of smoke.

The really silly bit, years ago when I didn't know better, me and my mate cut down a tree for another mate using a 9" angle grinder, fitted with an abrasive cutting disk. Took most of the day but we got the job done!

 

[BrokenBiker]

If I was doing my day job as a H&S consultant I wouldn't recommend any disc as the risk of the disc spinning at 20,000 rpm plus kicking up dust, dirt and stones from the soil is just to great. You might have all PPE. But ejected material can travel quite a significant distance.

Now, being a realist and having done this my self, make sure the ground around the roots is clear and no risk of ejected/flying material. PPE to the gunnels and then just use an abrasive disc for stone or metal. If the roots are damp it may clog a little but just clean the disc regularly with a wire brush. Also likely to be a lot of smoke.

The really silly bit, years ago when I didn't know better, me and my mate cut down a tree for another mate using a 9" angle grinder, fitted with an abrasive cutting disk. Took most of the day but we got the job done!

a few weeks ago I took the base out of a wooden shed with a 115mm grinder and a 1mm disc, that smoked like a banshee lol

will just go with the abrasive disc then. i have a lot of corrugated steel sheeting from a previous shed roof that i am going to stand behind me to stop any fragments flying off the property.

 

[Robotstar5]

on of its first jobs will be some tree roots, cant get a recip saw in broperly and the figsaw is too small, the amount of roots that need clearing would take about 3 days with a hand saw.

Hire a chainsaw for a day, it will wreck the chain but that's the hire company's problem

 

[Parm]

Hire a chainsaw for a day, it will wreck the chain but that's the hire company's problem

I've seen a neighbour do that. Hire companies charge a fixed amount to sharpen chains every time you hire the saw

 

[BrokenBiker]

customer wont pay for that, they are being tight enough as it is. Ive only.got the job because i quoted 300 under everyone else. I'm still making a tidy profit but i wanna keep the costs down as much as possible, this job could pay for a new van if i play it right and have a few follow ups

 

[Fintray]

on of its first jobs will be some tree roots, cant get a recip saw in broperly and the figsaw is too small, the amount of roots that need clearing would take about 3 days with a hand saw.

what disc would you suggest for that?

If you want to get rid of tree roots try using a splitting maul, I've removed lots using one.

 

[Rig Pig]

As Fintray says a good axe is what you need, and if possible leave the trunk at about 6' to give you some leverage to pull it over with a car or better still a leaver block or chain block. Dig round the stump and chop the roots as you pull it over.

 

[shed or dead]

We've all done a few dangerous things but angle grinder on wood is a big no no, far too much to go wrong.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I've seen a chainsaw type arrangement blade thingy for the smaller machines. Typically used for very rapid wood removal and a favorite amongst wood carvers. Wouldn't want anything like this on a larger machine as the kick back would be immense if things went wrong......

Do a Google search for "Arbortech" - I've used one, but def not for the job the OP has.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

As has been suggested before an axe swung into the hole will make short work of the roots, if you have no room for an axe a reciprocating/demolition/sabre saw does the job but is slower.

 

[Ed.]

Years ago, I made a couple of tools for cutting out clumps of bamboo, but also good for cutting tree roots, I used a length of old 40mm solid trailer axle for the pounding action, a length of thick walled 50mm SHS steel for the body, cut off one of the axle ends and welded into the RHS, cut out half the axle bearing taper and welded a piece of thick truck spring on to it and then sharpened the cutting head, the axle slides inside the SHS and slams down causing the cutting head to cut through the roots. It works like a small pile driver but with a cutting head. Glued on some rubber on the handle end to help minimize the shock to my hands.


You need ear muffs when using it as the sound travels straight up the tube towards your head, it also will give your arms and shoulders a good work out. The reason I made the RHS long is that once you get through the root, the axle can slide out a fair amount and you can use the extra leverage to help lever out the tree or whatever you are cutting. Hence the reason for thick wall SHS, as you don't want the tube to bend. If possible get 50mm SHS that doesn't have the seam weld too big on the inside, mine did and I ended up have to grind out a channel in the axle, but this works well, it's heavy and noisy but quite effective.


Another tool I use is a big electric jack hammer with a sharpened spade shovel bit on the end but it isn't as effective as the axle tool and I am always worried that if I use it as a lever it will crack the casing holding the bit, where as I have actually stood and bounced on the end of the axle shaft to give me more leverage on a stubborn tree.


Cheers


Ed.