@eddie49 reassembled the machine, with the fuse replaced at 2A. The machine powers up happily, and the output of the transformer is a reasonably stable 28V, which I’m taking to be within tolerance...
replaced the fuse with the correct 200mA fuse, and it powered up happily. It seemed to continue...
I have tested the primary coil on the transformer and it shows as 435 Ohms which seems a little higher than @eddie49 ’s estimate, but certainly not open circuit. I haven’t managed to retest with a new fuse, and I would expect it to blow fairly quickly (for a slow blow fuse) if the fault remained.
That is fantastic, thankyou very much for the complete reply!
Thankyou for the pointer to the transformer, I’ll test that out. I’m not a big fan of just replacing fuses and hoping, so it’s really useful to know that there is a common and known underlying fault.
I had found the eBay link to...
Thanks very much - having looked at the pic in that thread, my board does not quite look the same. For a start there is no Relay on the board.
The board is labelled as a VAR-05 and is shown in the attached picture.
I have revised the fuse on the board, and concluded that there is no...
I’m trying to diagnose a fault with my trusty Butters Mig. It’s badged as a Butters AMT MIG175 and must be 20+ years old now. I think the same machine was also sold as an SWP badged machine(?)
the fault has manifest between uses, going from working completely normally to now powering up, but...
i carry a leatherman charge tti and an led lenser p3 (fits in the side of the leatherman holster) daily. I also carry an led lenser p7 when I'm at the workshop...
Had a leatherman for the las 15 years - not the same one, but if it gets lost or stolen then it gets replaced immediately with another!
I have an ancient CF-18 (I think) which I mostly use for moving map display in my land rover (also occasionally as a wheel chock), and is fantastic for what it does - it is also the only machine I trust to take into the workshop, however, I wouldn't want to use it all day everyday. The Dell...
I bought the consumable package with mine. I havent needed to use it yet, and I imagine it will last me a good while, but I like to ensure I have compatible items ready to go.
Most of my t25 is 1mm with some 1.2, 1.6 and 2mm occasionally.
For butt welding the 1mm I have my Butters machine on its lowest power setting and wire feed just under 1/3 maximum. That is with 0.6mm wire. How this translates to the r-tech, I don't know, but it might give you somewhere to start...
Just because they are metric bearings doesn't necessarily make them cheap, or easy to come by. I made the same assumption with my Thiel. Most of the bearings are fine and relate to current SKF numbers, but I wanted (still want..) to change the spindle bearings. They turn out to be very special...
Most likely these machines were assembled in the factory in batches. This would have been machine number 6 (guess) of the batch. They were numbered so that during assembly, when things were scraped and/or fettled to fit, the newly fitting parts could all be assembled on the machine they came...
Hi All,
I am still working on my camper van, and have been considering investing in a small blaster for rust removal on small areas, and in seams.
Something like this spot gun or this pot type
I am wondering if the small pot type or spot blasters are worthwhile? Does anyone have experience...
Can't believe I have never noticed this thread...
Anyway, this is my Myford 254+. It was scrapped, and I rescued it out of the scrapyard in really excellent condition. Sadly it had no tooling with it when it was scrapped, so have spent twice what I paid for the lathe on chucks, face plates etc...
I should also probably mention that I am mostly doing sheet metal and bodywork repair on my VW camper van (T25). The file is for cleaning up welds rather than stock removal or carving.
Absolutely. I use real files a fair bit. The power file is more for areas I cant get a grinder onto and also don't have the space to move a file. Using the end of the power file gets me into the space even though I know it's an abuse of the roller...
The other option I am considering is flap...
Thanks chaps. I like the look of the makita, but am wondering whether the evolution version would be sufficient for my needs at half the price.
The makita comes with the 9mm arm, but the 13mm arm is available as an accessory which bumps the price up further, whereas the evolution one is half...